Getting discouraged fellow BLASTERS!

Fast6hand

Fast6hand

Active Member
Oct 10, 2013
2,022
308
145
West Palm Beach
So after performing my leak down test I found I had a intake leak, also a main crank seal leak on the stator side. So, when pulling the cover off, I discovered the previous owner I bought it off of, put a ton of epoxy or JB weld where the push lever assembly is. Hmmmmm...noticed some metal was missing where the spring is at. Must of broke something off, maybe a chain related issue?

Anyways, I bought a flywheel puller and took it off. Only to discover the stator was drilled out horribly bad to advance the timing. Oh and half the seal is coming out. Surprisingly, there wasn't oil leaking through.

So, after looking it all over, I discovered the jug had bolts going into the case on the stator side, and the right had the original studs. Why were the studs removed? Maybe they were stripped?

I was just going to buy seals and test again, but now I have my suspicions. I don't want to spend the money nor the time putting the top-end back together to find a leak in the cases.

So.......
Should I try and find a left side case and rebuild?
If I only get a left side will they match up to seal properly?
Should I get both left and right cases?

I'm not sure what to do at this point. I'm hoping the crank and piston are good. Granted the top-end was done not long ago (Wiseco), but with a air leak like that, I don't know. I really want to start tearing it down to see if there is anymore issues, and go from there. I just can't give up, I love my Blaster. I jusy want direction. What do you guys think?
 
Dont throw in the towel man. Plenty of good parts to be found here if needed and even better knowledge to get get it done right. Its really not that hard and knowing you did it yourself is very pleasing.
 
Luckily the Blaster doesn't require factory matched cases. Been lots of left sides on Eghey. Been looking for a right side myself.

As long as the stator plate bolts down good, should be fine, otherwise just replace it.
Though it's frustrating when things go bad, these are easy and relatively cheap to fix.

Good thing you tested before failure. Be sure to test after assembly.
Good luck, keep us posted.
 
u can get by replacing one case side. if ur worried u can get some sand paper an glass an plain the serfice down alittle before installing but i dont think ud even need to. why do u wanna replace that side case? cuz of the jb? if its working i wouldnt mess wit it.

the cylinder prob has bolts down one side cuz someone prob swapped the studs with bolts just replace the studs. buy the seal for the stator side an pop the new one in. fix your airleak on the intake side an re-leaktest the motor if it passes this time your laughing.

cases have been known to leak at the seam from time to time but its not overly commin.
 
Yea I bought this blaster as a project. Well I got what I wanted. Anyway, I found a left side on eBay for a good deal. So I'm going to change it and use the other as a extra. Tearing the motor down and rebuilding is the only thing I haven't done. I tore it down today only to find grooves on both sides of the new piston. The crankshaft seems fine. It has a little slop where it attaches to the crank. It's side to side slop, but none up and down. The right side is perfect inside and out. Is there anything specific I should look at in the jug? Grooves, scratches, etc.....
 
I would post some pics of the damage. Usually that area is broken cause of a broken chain whacking the cases. If the damage is not broken through and they are just using epoxy for the clutch spring tab then it is not that big of an issue. You will be surprised how well quick steel, jb weld, etc works if applied correctly.
 
Usually a deep scratch or gouge has to be bored. Sometime .010 over sometimes as much as .040 over. Honing is just to get the cross hatches in the cylinder wall for ring seal or deglazing.
 
If I'm just replacing the stator side of the engine do I need to disassemble the right side. Being the transmission and all? Or can it stay all together?
 
Fast6hand said:
If I'm just replacing the stator side of the engine do I need to disassemble the right side. Being the transmission and all? Or can it stay all together?
Click to expand...
You need to split the cases and disassemble the lower end if you plan to replace any side case.
 
DUALSTROKE said:
You need to split the cases and disassemble the lower end if you plan to replace any side case.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks for the info. I'm ordering the required tools for the job. Although I'm not sure on two things. Should I get a case seperator? And how should I remove the bearings. I figure I'll heat the case up around them and they should drop out. But what about the others like the shift level. They are different.
 
The correct tool to use to get out the tough bearings sch as balancer gear etc would be a "blind bearing puller". There are no bearings on the shift shaft.
 
DUALSTROKE said:
The correct tool to use to get out the tough bearings sch as balancer gear etc would be a "blind bearing puller". There are no bearings on the shift shaft.
Click to expand...
Sorry push lever assembly. My bad. I just ordered the case New
separator from Tusk. I want to do it the right way.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Carter Prater
Compression
Replies
0
Views
88
Engine
Carter Prater
Carter Prater
Nathon
2005 blaster boggs and smokes
Replies
0
Views
93
Engine
Nathon
Nathon
T
Piston Skirt Explosion
Replies
1
Views
219
Engine
RIDE-RED350r
RIDE-RED350r
Mts8888
New here. 2004 blaster has been sitting
Replies
1
Views
50
Engine
RIDE-RED350r
RIDE-RED350r
blaster_4_ever
67.25 mm bore - wiseco piston - stock bottom end - stock exhaust
Replies
5
Views
212
Jetting
blaster_4_ever
blaster_4_ever
Top Bottom
Back