Get my Carb right!

Anytime there is bogging, in my experience, there are 2 potential culprits. Air leak and carb. Which do you think I will recommend as most needed to be addressed?
 
Well this is a brand new rebuilt engine. No air leaks prior to putting the engine in and did th complete engine break in and retorqued the bolts down. This has to be the Carb and from what i've read it's bogging at 1/8 through half throttle. I believe this should be the needle, so what clip should I move it to, up or down?
 
fmf low to mid pipe.
whithout porting done to the engine/that carb might give you trouble???
probably bogging cuz either it cant burn all the fuel you are throwing at it or not enough air in the mix??
what is plug type?
 
i guess you could try if your heart is set on it:D
jet_needle.jpg
 
yes, you can move the needle clip,
I'd try raising the clip one position (2nd slot down), which lowers the needle and leans the mix.
but without the experience to feel or hear if it's rich or lean, you should do a 1/2-3/4 throttle plug chop to confirm.
use the throttle stop screw to allow the throttle to only open to 3/4 and plug chop
 
Could be either way. Try moving it one way or the other and see if there is improvement.
 
I had to go back and reread the whole thread. 35mm??
thats a pretty damn big carb for your mods. if you were running a right bend pipe with a 3mil stroker i think that carb would be bad ass. drop to a pwk28 or even a stock carb and I bet your problems will resolve.
 
Lots of folks forget about that screw on the thumb throttle and it can be very use full in a lot of ways. First, fool your friends/fam into thinking ahh this thing is slow ill beat you with my lt230 or Raptor 350 , warrior etc (or more with it set up right) Then put a few hondos on the line and turn the screw out and BAM!! new suspension $$ in the pocket :eek: .. Then like Awk said ,,,, to use as a tool/setting to plug chop at certain throttle. Lots of folks only focus on the main jet and that is only 25% of the throttle and allot of riding isn't even in that upper 25%.. Good thing is the stock 26mm carb does a very good job at all ranges and really only needs main changes and clip changes to a certain extent. Changing carbs means you should be checking plugs on all different fuel circuits.
 
Before I moved the clip to a leaner position with the possibility of piston damage I would be trying the old choke on trick.

If you are inexperienced and cannot tell if you are lean or rich, never lean out first always try to richen first to solve the problem! Lean mixtures cause expensive damage!

Make sure the float level is correct, set the idle as per specs, take it for a ride at the problem throttle opening and reach down and pull the choke knob out a little.

If the running improves, you have too lean a setting, if it gets worse it is too rich.

My advice would be to change to a smaller carby, as your mods do not warrant such a big one.
 
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I'm going to try this out. The bike had a LRD pipe and silencer on the previous engine which is cracked now at one of the welds. I know the Carb and exhaust don't match up was just trying to get this to work because this is what I have on hand right now. I don't have any pictures right now and I don't want to take the intake off again sorry.
 
Its a damb Keihin 28pwk boared over to a 30 with an OKO stamp on it. Same jets and everything even jas the Keihin stamp on the body and the float bowl. I'm going to try a 48 pilot and a 155 main to start with. Was wondering about the needle. It has a N80F in it now should I switch to my DGK needle or keep it?