fuel injection
- Thread starter Blaster8821
- Start date
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
I have seen it done to a blaster here in South Africa. The guys battled with fueling, but it has been done. Not much to be gained from it though, just a gimic as far as Im concerned.
http://www.ecotrons.com/products/small_engine_fuel_injection_kit/
I don't know if it would work on a blaster engine, but the price isn't bad.
I don't know if it would work on a blaster engine, but the price isn't bad.
I was just curious. I had done a lot of engine work to my blaster and cant get anything right with the carb. If someone had a kit hat was basically bolt on I would have done it.
What carb are you using now? If stock than that is/ will be the easiest to set up. It is not hard trust me. follow the advice given and we can get you up and running in no time and then you can fine tune. If it happens to be a different carb and you can provide us with the carb/ make and maybe the model of bike it was on we may also be able to help you to adjust it. No matter the mods on your blaster a stock carb will work just fine.
Also the closest carb you will get to fuel injection is a Lectron carb. People have there opinions on them but that is the carb I run and I couldn't be happier. There are no jets and only metering rod. Very easy to adjust once you understand them. Also I don't need to re jet for altitude nor temp changes.
Also the closest carb you will get to fuel injection is a Lectron carb. People have there opinions on them but that is the carb I run and I couldn't be happier. There are no jets and only metering rod. Very easy to adjust once you understand them. Also I don't need to re jet for altitude nor temp changes.
Its a clean carb. actually had ken bore it out to a 27mm. I'm getting pissed because I cant get the jetting right. Had the thing ported, high compression head, bored carb and the cylinder bored. fires right up but I heard its suppose to scream over a stock blaster but my buddy keeps right up with me and his is bone stock.... yes I did a leak test no leakes. just don't know if I should raise the needle on the slide up one spot or not? I have taken it easy for 2 tanks so it should be broken in too. I know kens work is amazing. It has to be something with the jetting.
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And now .......................................................... the rest of the story.
We go from EFI to carb tuning.
So tell us, what are your mods, temp, elev, jets, carb settings, plug type/age, what else have you done/tried?
Maybe even gearing and rear tire size/style.
We go from EFI to carb tuning.
So tell us, what are your mods, temp, elev, jets, carb settings, plug type/age, what else have you done/tried?
Maybe even gearing and rear tire size/style.
Have you plug chopped at all ??? Buy yourself a box of plugs and start chopping. Post pics of the plugs when you do so. You can plug chap the different circuits of the carb. pre mix or oil injection?
Bad bearings, hanging brakes, wrong tire pressure, old rusty chain, dirty air filter, gunked up silencer/exhaust <<< are all power robbers.
Bad bearings, hanging brakes, wrong tire pressure, old rusty chain, dirty air filter, gunked up silencer/exhaust <<< are all power robbers.
Its a 1988 and has been bored over 1 size, ported jug, compressed head (did not compress it to much because I know I wont be able to get my hands on 110 oct. all the time but am currently running 110 as of now.), bored out carb to a 27mm, Wiesco piston, V Force 4 reeds, FMF Fatty Gold pipe with turbine core II silencer, EBC carbon fiber clutches, K and N air filter with stock CLOSED air box, oil injection still hooked up and running Belray si-7 full syn. injector oil.
Chain is new and is at the stock gearing. The tires for the dirt are ITP Holeshots front and rear. (rears are AT 20x11-10 and front 21x7-10. Thought they would be a little smaller than the stock ones but when I went to pick them up they were a little bigger.) Most of the time I'm on the sand dunes and I have ITP sandstars for the rear 20x11-10.
Right now I wont run it under 50 degrees but hear in Michigan I would say 70-80 degrees is the average temperature in the summer. Elevation is about 850 above sea level and I set the carb settings back to stock beside the main jet, have never changed the pilot jet, the needle is in the middle setting, (I think that's stock?) air screw is 1.5 turns out and my main jet is a 260. (my blaster had a 220 main stock as it was a early blaster.) my plug is a BR8ES.
I have a 10 pack of spark plugs so I can run a plug chop but every time I do it its either burnt or soaking wet! sorry I pitched them in the trash a few weeks ago, ill do it again this weekend and post pics. Ken told me to start out with a 330 main but it was running so bad that I went to a 250 since my dad told me that he doesn't think it would need to jump that much like maybe 2 sizes so then after running it, it seemed to lean but ran a little better. put a 260 in and the plug looks good full out but wet if you let it idle or are in mid range. When you have it full out too it becomes a little boggy after it get the rpms up. (that's with the 260)
I'm totally lost on this jetting process I'm about ready to hand it over to someone else and have them deal with the jetting because its been a month now and haven't been able to get it right. Need it done by the 2nd of April because I'm heading up to Silver Lake that day and going back up that same Saturday.
Also replaced the pepcock and using fresh fuel without ethanol. (I know 110 goes bad fast but not over night) I have ran 2 tanks through the new motor so it should be broken in by now.
Chain is new and is at the stock gearing. The tires for the dirt are ITP Holeshots front and rear. (rears are AT 20x11-10 and front 21x7-10. Thought they would be a little smaller than the stock ones but when I went to pick them up they were a little bigger.) Most of the time I'm on the sand dunes and I have ITP sandstars for the rear 20x11-10.
Right now I wont run it under 50 degrees but hear in Michigan I would say 70-80 degrees is the average temperature in the summer. Elevation is about 850 above sea level and I set the carb settings back to stock beside the main jet, have never changed the pilot jet, the needle is in the middle setting, (I think that's stock?) air screw is 1.5 turns out and my main jet is a 260. (my blaster had a 220 main stock as it was a early blaster.) my plug is a BR8ES.
I have a 10 pack of spark plugs so I can run a plug chop but every time I do it its either burnt or soaking wet! sorry I pitched them in the trash a few weeks ago, ill do it again this weekend and post pics. Ken told me to start out with a 330 main but it was running so bad that I went to a 250 since my dad told me that he doesn't think it would need to jump that much like maybe 2 sizes so then after running it, it seemed to lean but ran a little better. put a 260 in and the plug looks good full out but wet if you let it idle or are in mid range. When you have it full out too it becomes a little boggy after it get the rpms up. (that's with the 260)
I'm totally lost on this jetting process
I'm about ready to hand it over to someone else and have them deal with the jetting because its been a month now and haven't been able to get it right. Need it done by the 2nd of April because I'm heading up to Silver Lake that day and going back up that same Saturday.Also replaced the pepcock and using fresh fuel without ethanol. (I know 110 goes bad fast but not over night) I have ran 2 tanks through the new motor so it should be broken in by now.
Perform another leak test even if you already have.
you need to read up on plug chopping and how to do it. you clearly ran those plugs longer than one run, in fact it looks as though you idle them up to temp and then do a chop. the proper way of doing a plug chop is
1)idle/light rev bike to full operating temp, or ride it a little bit
2)switch spark plugs and hold the gas wide open the whole time you do the test. on a road, you need about 10 seconds of WOT with light braking to get the best effect
3)pull the clutch and kill the engine. stop as fast as you can safely
4)put the old plug back in and put the testing plug in your pocket, ride back and look
honestly, your 260 "plug chop" is what my plug looks like after 2-3 weeks of riding
your 250 is about 2-3 hours
you need to read up on plug chopping and how to do it. you clearly ran those plugs longer than one run, in fact it looks as though you idle them up to temp and then do a chop. the proper way of doing a plug chop is
1)idle/light rev bike to full operating temp, or ride it a little bit
2)switch spark plugs and hold the gas wide open the whole time you do the test. on a road, you need about 10 seconds of WOT with light braking to get the best effect
3)pull the clutch and kill the engine. stop as fast as you can safely
4)put the old plug back in and put the testing plug in your pocket, ride back and look
honestly, your 260 "plug chop" is what my plug looks like after 2-3 weeks of riding
your 250 is about 2-3 hours
I both of the spark plugs shown I didn't do a plug chops on. they were 10 min runs. the last plug I chopped didn't even have a ring on the plug
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