Fuel Delivery issues

[camoKILLSHOT]

Im having trouble with my blaster where i think it is getting too much fuel. I can start it after its been sitting for a while but it only runs for a few seconds and seems to choke itself out. Sometimes i get fuel draining out of the overflow on the carburetor but ive cleaned it at least 5 times in the last month. I would also like to know more about the TORS other than its junk and i should just get rid of it. Im new to this and just learning as i go so thanks for your time and patience.

 

[jus_me]

Fuel coming from the overflow has to do with your float adjustment height. With it overflowing like that it could also be your problem with it stalling due to fuel flooding the motor.

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

Fuel coming from the overflow has to do with your float adjustment height. With it overflowing like that it could also be your problem with it stalling due to fuel flooding the motor.

I cleaned the float and the valve that blocks the flow (cant remember what its called now for some reason) multiple times and the float seems to have free movement and it doesnt stick at all.

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

I had it running pretty good for a few hours but the carb kept getting gunked up because the petcock valve was almost completely blocked off with dirt and the screens were missing so i put the new one on and i havent got it to run good since

 

[Larry's Shee]

Well, other than two threads identical .................
Drain the tank and clean it out, then clean screen and petcock.
Then clean carb again. Take it completely apart to clean. Quick douche with spray can isn't cleaning it.
ALL passages must pass air through. You must be able to see light through pilot and main jet, and holes on side of emulsion/ main jet tube must be open.

 

[bummer981]

Also may help to check your float height and adjust it if needed.

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

Well, other than two threads identical .................
Drain the tank and clean it out, then clean screen and petcock.
Then clean carb again. Take it completely apart to clean. Quick douche with spray can isn't cleaning it.
ALL passages must pass air through. You must be able to see light through pilot and main jet, and holes on side of emulsion/ main jet tube must be open.

Yeah sorry about the two posts my internet connection was acting up when i tried posting and when i refreshed i guess it thought i posted two different times. I cleaned the gas tank and got a new petcock because the screens were missing and i know for certian the carburator is completely clear and all of the jets are working.

 

[speedyslyder]

there is a screw that also drains the float bowl on bottom near the hose
make sure it is tight or take it out and clean that too.
take hose off gas tank line and see if it flows freely
and you can crack the float bowl drain to see that to.
make sure gas cap is venting properly as well,unscrew it a lil to see ,if you have to?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/

 

[rich1]

Clean like advised above and get a carb repair kit ,Shindy kit $28...Rocky Mt ATV. Most likely the valve seat and needle valve are worn out in diagram above.

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

I just got it to run for a while and it even idled (kind of). I could give it gas and it seemed to rev up ok but every time i let off it backfired. The oil light up front also was on but i checked the oil level and it is only about an inch low from the top.

 

[speedyslyder]

what did you change to make it better?
backfiring could be a few things
timing or flooding are two of them.
you might have more then 1 issue
have you done compression test?
got any pics of blaster?
airscrew is set at?

if it is a 89 then this is the tors removal

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

what did you change to make it better?
backfiring could be a few things
timing or flooding are two of them.
you might have more then 1 issue
have you done compression test?
got any pics of blaster?
airscrew is set at?

if it is a 89 then this is the tors removal

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/

I cleaned out the hole the needle valve sits in and it is no longer draining fuel out of the bowl. Compression is good and i replaced the coil and spark plug and spark is now good. The airscrew is set 1.5 turns out. I will get pics tomorrow but it is too dark now. I dont know where the idle screw in the tors is supposed to be adjusted so that is probably wrong too but i want to know where it should be stock. I want to try and get it working with the tors before i disable it but if anybody thinks it would help i will definitely disable it.

 

[speedyslyder]

the idle is wherever you want it
@Blaaster has a idle setting procedure

turning the large screw under seat on top of tors brick to the RIGHT increases idle
turning it to the left decreases idle....

normal compression is 120psi if you ever test it

get pics of both side of carb if you can so we can see if anything obvious is not right and not helping this thing rip

 

[speedyslyder]

i saw you searching here is 1

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/blaster-2003-idle-adjustment-screw-location.29743/

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

i saw you searching here is 1

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/blaster-2003-idle-adjustment-screw-location.29743/

I have it set about halfway i just wanted to make sure it doesnt directly control how much fuel is getting pumped into the engine.

 

[speedyslyder]

turning it up
raises the slide/needle in the carb
is there any mods done to your blaster?
aftermarket pipe or anything else?

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

turning it up
raises the slide/needle in the carb
is there any mods done to your blaster?
aftermarket pipe or anything else?

Not any mods that i can tell other than brakes maybe.

 

[Blaaster]

Idle speed setting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

Thanks for everything so far guys i really appreciate it if i can get the four wheeler to do tomorrow what it did today i can probably make it work from there ill let you know.

 

[camoKILLSHOT]

Okay good news today i filled the carburetor with gas then turned the gas off, gave it one kick and it fired right up and idled strong until the gas in the carburetor ran out. It wasnt blowing smoke and it didnt backfire and i dont think i am going to adjust the idle anymore i like where it is at. I turned on the gas just long enough to fill the carb again and it started one more time and it sounded like it bogged down every time i gave it throttle. I cant start it again now so its definately flooding still.