fresh top end

dakine97

New Member
Jan 4, 2012
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So the other day I was riding and my bike lost compression like crazy she didn't even have enough to get one good spark.so me and dad tore it down and checked the sleeve it had a few scares but nuthng major so we took the cylinder to earlys cycle and they tried to bore it and the sleeve cracked.....so we picked another up from blasty 95 and a boost bottle. I was wondering would the boost bottle give me more top end with my 18s and being geared low as a tractor my bottom end and mid range are amazing but after third gear I have no top end power would the bottle help my power and much?
 
What were the results of the leak down test you did before you started the freshly re-built motor?

As to the boost bottle, you prolly will go faster without it, due to the bike being lighter.
 
I don't have a leak down tester....the cylinder had no compresion what so ever the bottle is for your power and it makes it more responsive on sir flow it only weighs a few ounces
 
Rules of a rebuilder.

Rebuild!

Leak test!

Re- jet!

Heat cycles, proper break in.

Plug chop!

If these were not done = no compression!

The cylinder could have been cracked from a seize, resulting from some or all of the above!
 
like blaaster said for a accurate diagnosis we need more info. and boost bottles do virtually nothing, not worth the time or money involved, plus adding one more thing that can spring an airleak.
 
I got it cheap and were gonna seal the hose to the bottle with silicone and what are heat cycles never heard of em I just run the bike for a few mins a day after last build and what's a plug chop?
 
I didnt do a leak down test or re jet mine and it runs fine. all i have to do now is some plug chops and were good. but im going to do a leak down lol
 
I have never done a leak down test or heat cycles and this is the first time she's popped so quickly after a rebuild and its getting jetted to a 320 or 310 my sleeve was busted that's the reason for the new cylinder dad picked up went for a bore the sleeve went
 
I got it cheap and were gonna seal the hose to the bottle with silicone and what are heat cycles never heard of em I just run the bike for a few mins a day after last build and what's a plug chop?


14mqc1y.jpg


Plug chop.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/


Heres one posted by Awk a while ago, this is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg
 
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Thanks man didn't know how to do it the 320 didn't work still starvin for gas prolly gonna go 330to be safe maybe 340 till christmas when I convice gramaw to order a 28 mil carb most likely won't. Happen tho
 
The Fatty should run with around a #270 main if you have the lid on.

Did you do the heat cycles?

What were the results of the leak down test.

If you have an air leak the bike wont last till the end of the month, let alone Christmas!
 
Listen to these guys. I didn't at first and I went through 2 pistons. Then I did exactly what they suggested and did a ton of reading on jetting. I'm glad I did. Now my blaster runs great. I was off by 4 needle sizes to lean.