Finally upgraded to front hydros

Luni

Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,310
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Layton, UT
www.celicatech.com
So I finally got off my ass and finished getting everything I needed for a front hydraulic brake conversion.

I used hubs and calipers from a YFZ450. Modified KOR spindles done by Tarmo. Some lines that came off a Raptor that I got from Awk. I dont know if he modified them or thats just how they came, but they work great. I think theyre a little too long in the lines, but that just means I shouldnt have to do anything to get them to work with some +3 +1 a-arms. I used a Banshee master cylinder.

I have a question for you guys who have done it though. After torquing down the outer axle/spindle nut that holds it all together, my front wheels are kinda hard to turn. I thought it was my brakes dragging but even without the calipers on, its pretty hard to turn. They dont just free spin.

Has anyone else had that problem? Now granted, I havent even ridden it yet (just finished, and its 1:30 in the morning) so maybe they just need to "break in" or something.

I also think I need to reposition my lines, because they are the lowest point in my front end and Id hate to hit a rock and rip one.

Other than a few minor details, I think Ill be happy with them. I havent been able to ride my quad all season because my old cable brakes had bad cables or something. I could never get them to work after I rolled it and snapped the cable. I bought a used cable from Awk but it just didnt seem to work.

Anyway, Just curious about the front drag thing.
 
The tube spacer and various shims in both the front spindles and the rear bearing carrier are supposed to work out to be in the right positions so that both the bearings are pinched in position on the inside, locked up on one of the outer races, but free to slide a little on the other one. Clearances are pretty close and if something is off somewhere, the bearings can bind when tightened. This is not a good thing.

There are a few options:
1) Try banging it with a rubber mallet. Sometimes that bearing race just needs some help to slide over a bit.
2) Back the nut off a bit until it spins free, lock the nut in place. Preferred for the rear, not for the front.
3) take it apart and figure out where the binding is, and add a shim, usually a thin washer behind the outer bearing inner race.
 
If your wheels "free-wheel" fine, with the castle nuts loose... Something is up with the bearing stack within the hub. Be sure you have the cone shaped spacer thingy between the bearings. Otherwise I would get a hold of a (measuring) caliper and measure the components of the bearing stack and make sure it is slightly more than the distance between shoulders within the hub.

N
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

I went back out and checked it out. On the Blaster spindles/hubs the castle nut has a washer behind it. I reused that. Today I took it off and put the nut back on without them and all is fine. I had a buddy of mine take a picture of his Banshee castle nut and its longer so it will make it to the cotter pin hole. So it looks like I just need some Banshee castle nuts.

Brakes work great. Almost threw me over the handlebars first time I tried them after rebleeding them :p.

I get to try them out in 2 weeks.
 
Mine doesnt work with a washer. Maybe the banshee washer isnt as big around as the blaster. I dunno.

Even so, it should only touch the inner race on the bearing, and sounds like something in the hub is screwy... :-/