Engine popping and sputtering

JPatten

New Member
Dec 8, 2020
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Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a 1996 Blaster that I have had for about 15 years. My son has recently shown interest in it so we are getting it ready for him. It has TORS delete, bored .050 over, Vito’s 3mm striker kit, new clutches, coil, bearings, brakes, etc. The problem is, my father in law and I were doing a test fire on it the other night trying to have it ready for Christmas. Motor has great compression, it will start but not idle and it will run with feathering the throttle but will start popping and backfiring. Took apart cab and made sure it wasn’t clogged or dirty. Put back together, same thing. Tried new plug, same thing. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
 
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That is ussualy caused from bad reeds or sheared timing key.Check your reeds. Make sure they are sealing good against the cage. No gaps or cracks. Or missing pieces.if good pull flywheel and check keyway.
Did you use the supplied spacer plate and 2 gaskets with the +3 vitos crank? Or did you have the head machined and cylinder
 
That is ussualy caused from bad reeds or sheared timing key.Check your reeds. Make sure they are sealing good against the cage. No gaps or cracks. Or missing pieces.if good pull flywheel and check keyway.
Did you use the supplied spacer plate and 2 gaskets with the +3 vitos crank? Or did you have the head machined and cylinder
Going to check those items later this week. Thanks for the response and info.
 
There was only one of the copper gaskets installed but I do have the other. What is the spacer plate you asked about? Also the reeds seemed to be fine. Nothing cracked or missing.
If you put the +3 mm stroker crank in .there is a aluminum spacer plate and a gasket for each side of it. It goes under the cylinder base. It raises the cylinder 3mm to keep port timing and cylinder head to piston clearance the same as stock stroke
 
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Flywheel key was sheered off. Replaced and it starts, idles, and revs like a champ now. Thanks man!
Glad you figured it out. The flywheel needs to be tourqed to spec. It's a tapered shaft. And that taper is what keeps the flywheel from moving on the shaft. The keyway is only to time the flywheel to the crank.

Time to have some fun with it
 
Glad you figured it out. The flywheel needs to be tourqed to spec. It's a tapered shaft. And that taper is what keeps the flywheel from moving on the shaft. The keyway is only to time the flywheel to the crank.

Time to have some fun with it
Thanks for all the tips and advise. I want to replace the clutch and brake levers and perches. The parking brake has been deleted and it does not have hydraulic brakes. I am having a hard time finding anything really. He would like something besides a “stock style”, something anodized or colored. Do you have any suggestions?