Damn B

wompmonster

Member
Apr 26, 2012
173
0
42
I cant get my blaster to start by kick starting it. The starter turns over the engine fine but wont fire. When its bump started it starts up and idles fine. However I have the idle screw all the way in because if I screw it out it stalls. Did a compression test and got 115 psi. Manual calls for 110 so I think Im good there. New cosmetic base and intake gaskets. Im running a 42 pilot and a 148 main. I though it was the pilot jet so I bought genuine jets from 60 to 40. 42 is the only one that starts with the kick starter but idles for a couple of seconds then stalls. However if the blaster is bump started it runs completely fine all around. If it give it the slightest amount of throttle then it stalls. Im am completely lost to why this b is giving me these problems!

Im running:
Right Hand Bend Expansion Chamber w FMF Power Core 2
Keihin PE 28mm Car w/ Clamp on UNI POD Filter
Ohio = Elevation is 750 Feet
 
i don't even know where to start on this one
run down thru this list.............

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/my-general-troubleshooting-maintenance-30347/

your compression is a little low, 120psi+ for a fresh motor
and your airscrew should start at 1.5 turns out, and then adjusted to the highest idle
under 1/2 turn = bigger pilot
over 2 -1/2 turns = smaller pilot

filters clamped straight onto the carb have been known to cause jetting fits as the air has no chance to straighten out, consider adding a 4-6" velocity tube made from 2" pvc pipe

has it been leaktested ?
have you tried a new plug ? they can foul instantly
how are the reeds
has the "tors" been eliminated ?
 
Tor's has been deleted, New plug installed, New boyesen Reeds, Haven't done a leak down yet. I'm sure it has some kind of leak, but was hoping to get running as is till i have the money to redo a separate top end cause this one in it's not in good shape.
 
If you don't leak test you will be needing that other top end sooner than you think. Especially if you think you have a leak. If you think its leaking dont ride it or.....
 
Reed block off... whats this?

he's saying, that the "reed block" (reed cage) has been removed, so it should be leak tested again,
to ensure it got resealed when reinstalled
as it should be leaktested anytime the reeds, head, or base gasket has been removed/replaced
 
Did a leak down test today. The engine couldn't hold any pressure at all. Threw some soapy water on it and saw all kinds of leaks around the base gasket. So I took it off and sprayed the gasket and jug/crank base flanges with copper spray a gasket sealer. Did a leak down again and it held 15 psi with no problems. Did slowly start to drop but was very slow, so it has a pin hole leak somewhere but im not going to tear it down to check the crank seals. Also went and got some pvc pipe and rubber hose clap adapters to make me a velocity stack for my intake. Has one 45 degree bend and about 1 foot of straight pipe before the filter.

Then I went to kick the engine and still not starting when I kick it over. I tried 40 to 60 pilots and no luck with it starting with the kick starter. Bump started fine with all the pilots I tried. Also I did notice that my main wasn't dialed in any more. When engine caught up to WOT it would cut out. I went from a 148 to a 155 and still had the problem. Then went from 155 to a 145 an still had the problem with cutting out on WOT at high RPM.
 
15lbs of pressure will blow crank seals right out of place

7lbs max for 5 minutes is more than enuf
 
When the pressure was released at the carb boot, the remaining 15psi in the crancase may have damaged a reed, this could cause it not to start.