Converting from drum to disk brakes...
- Thread starter twinblasters
- Start date
I put 01 warrior spindel,hubs, the whole nine yards. and yes ull need rims, and have to drill out the top hole in spindle with a 9/16" drill bit and drill and tap to small holes for bolts to act as pinch bolt. not hard to do.
I thought about swapping mine, But then I properly adjusted my brakes and they stop good enough. Until the port job and rebuild 
I used the shee setup.One bike has aftermarket a-arms the other is all stock.You do not need to change your rims.They should swap right over.
I have heard of alignment issues using the Warrior/Banshee setups which is one reason I decided against them. Can anyone verify whether that is true or not?
I just wanna know why my brakes wont adjust on the front end. I have near new shoes and a new cable but only one side will grab. I adjusted the handle and on the wing nut and moved the lever (On the wheel setup) forward a few splines. Should I get a new set of shoes?
only thing ive heard is that when jumping you wont get full travel out of the arms cause the arm will hit the spindle itself. dont quote me on that but i think ive read that somewhere
Well it does tow them in a very little with the stock a-arms,but not enough for me to care about.No issues with clearance at all.I have burgard a-arms on my sig bike and banshee spindles work perfect with those a-arms.Heres a pic of a stock front end with the shee spindles drilled out and two 1/4-20 screws w/ locknuts tapped out to hold them in.Works great for me and a hell of alot cheaper than 03-06 spindles.
As you can see in the pics it is in a very little.Hopefully this clears some of the questions up.I was hesitant to try it also cause of the vague information on it,but decided to do so and it works out fine.
From the pics it looks like its got some negative camber, but not enough to be a problem based on eyeballing it. A little bit is good, so I would say thats not an issue. And as far as "toe in" Did you mean negative camber, because it almost looks like you have some "toe out". Thanks for the info and pics.
A little bit of to in or out is good. It pre-loads the suspension. Every car has toe in or out. Camber is good too. Negative camber actually, when hanging turns the out side tire stands up straight and the inside tire lays in a little bit. This should theoretically improve cornering.
I'm not good with the front end terminology.lol It's the top of the tire is towards the frame no more than a 1/2 inch.Seems to ride and respond well for me.Maybe you guys can help me understand the negative camber,tow etc. better than I do now.
Camber is how the tire leans in or out at the top. From your description and pics, it looks like you have negative camber, which is where the tops of the tires tip in towards the frame. As Cochise said, a little bit of negative camber is usually good for handling.
Toe in is when the front of the tires turn in towards the center of the bike, and toe out, of course is when the front of the tires are turned out away from the center. In a street car, you generally want a little bit of tow in as it makes the vehicle want to track straight without driver input. Toe out can actually aid turn-in during cornering, but makes the vehicle a little bit less stable on straights. The vehicle will tend to follow ruts and uneven surfaces more than a vehicle with some toe in.
Anyhow, there is a point where toe in or out, and camber, both negative and positive will negatively effect handling. I am just trying to determine if this mix of parts will create this type of situation, or if it can be tuned out, or is not an issue to begin with.
From the sounds of it, if the bike handles well with the suspension both unloaded and loaded, it should not be an issue. I do wonder about compression and bind, as Mr 305 brought up. Have you seen any issues during jumps that would indicate binding or bottoming on the spindles?
Toe in is when the front of the tires turn in towards the center of the bike, and toe out, of course is when the front of the tires are turned out away from the center. In a street car, you generally want a little bit of tow in as it makes the vehicle want to track straight without driver input. Toe out can actually aid turn-in during cornering, but makes the vehicle a little bit less stable on straights. The vehicle will tend to follow ruts and uneven surfaces more than a vehicle with some toe in.
Anyhow, there is a point where toe in or out, and camber, both negative and positive will negatively effect handling. I am just trying to determine if this mix of parts will create this type of situation, or if it can be tuned out, or is not an issue to begin with.
From the sounds of it, if the bike handles well with the suspension both unloaded and loaded, it should not be an issue. I do wonder about compression and bind, as Mr 305 brought up. Have you seen any issues during jumps that would indicate binding or bottoming on the spindles?
On the wheel that wont lock up... you might have to take off the cam lever and rotate it back by one tooth on the cam shaft... then use the wing nut and readjust that wheel..... that will move the break pad closer to the drum before you pull the handle...
I will have to give this a try my right wheel locks up first and it causes alot of steering complicationsX(
I still have a few sets of spindles I converted. Long story short...'90-'02 spindles I modify to take banshee, warrior or 350 raptor brake components (disks, hubs, rotors and calipers). Pictures by norman420 - Photobucket $100+shipping
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