confused
- Thread starter az0121
- Start date
someone will chime in with the video for leak test. if its not got a leak it could be tors system if your still running it.
lets start with the basics and more info......
when's the last time you rode it ?
when's the last time the carb was cleaned ?
when's the last time the air filter was cleaned ?
how old is the fuel in it ?
have you tried a new spark plug ?
when's the last time you rode it ?
when's the last time the carb was cleaned ?
when's the last time the air filter was cleaned ?
how old is the fuel in it ?
have you tried a new spark plug ?
Yes it will bust on you if you keep driving it like that.
It will cost you $10 for a 0-15psi gauge, $10 for a bicycle pump, and $10 for various hose and fittings to make yourself a leak tester. Use it and you will know your motor is mechanically sound with no leaks. Clean the carb and write down the jet numbers while you are at it (don't overtighten any screws or jets), put a new plug in ($4), fresh gas (drain and refill), good $15 oil (and check that it flows), clean the air filter (don't use hot water, just cool), and seal up the exhaust. You will have a lot of problems solved for only $50 and 2 hrs work invested.
The alternative is to mess with it all afternoon long, kicking and pushing, some $3 oil in the tank and throw the filter away. It won't work well most guys who run this way know it is because the Blaster is a piece of junk that only an idiot would own. They'll laugh as they sell it cheap to some guy on this list who'll do a bit of work and get a lot of fun out of it.
Just my thoughts as an old guy with a lot of history...
Steve
Guy on a banshee forum melted his pistons from old gas don't recall at the moment how old, but if it isn't nearly as fresh as your underwear, drain it and start with fresh fuel.
What happens is the high end volitles (octain) evaporates off leaving you with crap for fuel, plus it would increase oil/gas ratio.
Must be a reason you can't get "old style" gas cans, gotta get the EPA cans that seal(better).
In an auto/truck it's no problem with a closed/sealed fuel system, but we have open vents without one-way valves and the good stuff goes by-by X(
How to do it!
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If you put holes in the lid you need to upsize the main jet and then plug chop.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you put holes in the lid you need to upsize the main jet and then plug chop.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Last edited by a moderator:
Larry is right about fuel. Today's fuel is sort of a varsol like base with an volatile ether added to it to get it to burn. It has a shelf life of no more than 3 months in a sealed gas jug. With the ether evaporated out of it, it burns hot and ignites late. The ether component is actually the octane producing part.
The ethers used are generally MTBE, ETBE, or TAME. MTBE was the first used. It is still very common but it is outlawed in some states because of its cancer causing properties and high solubility in water. It is also implicated in some metal fatigue issues. ETBE and TAME are just molecular variations and are both ethers as well.
Steve
The ethers used are generally MTBE, ETBE, or TAME. MTBE was the first used. It is still very common but it is outlawed in some states because of its cancer causing properties and high solubility in water. It is also implicated in some metal fatigue issues. ETBE and TAME are just molecular variations and are both ethers as well.
Steve
PLEASE no text lingo, It makes it hard for some (most) to understand what you are trying to tell us.
You keep asking questions but have answered few that have been asked of you in return. And why do you have three threads for the same issue???X
o
Won't get any more, better, or faster answers that way.
You keep asking questions but have answered few that have been asked of you in return. And why do you have three threads for the same issue???X
oWon't get any more, better, or faster answers that way.
PLEASE no text lingo, It makes it hard for some (most) to understand what you are trying to tell us.
You keep asking questions but have answered few that have been asked of you in return. And why do you have three threads for the same issue???X
Won't get any more, better, or faster answers that way.
May even get less answers because of folks getting the craps from having to look through numerous threads to avoid repetition.
I am well on the way with this!
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