Looking to buy new friction plates for my blaster and was wondering which company people prefer, vito's, tusk, ebc etc....
Clutch Plate Opinions
- Thread starter Gonegrizzly
- Start date
don't buy just friction plates, you'll pay more than if you just order a complete kit w/ steels also.
the tusks are good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Clutch-Kit-With-Heavy-Duty-Springs-YAMAHA-BLASTER-200-1988-2006-NEW-/300880726046?fits=Make:Yamaha|Model:Blaster+200&hash=item460de3881e:g:hEUAAOSwpDdVceWh&vxp=mtr
the drivelines are better (IMO):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BLAS...KIT-/301513698837?vxp=mtr&hash=item46339dee15
the driveline includes an extra full size friction to replace the wavy washer and skinny friction of the stock set-up, the tusk may also ?
the tusks are good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Clutch-Kit-With-Heavy-Duty-Springs-YAMAHA-BLASTER-200-1988-2006-NEW-/300880726046?fits=Make:Yamaha|Model:Blaster+200&hash=item460de3881e:g:hEUAAOSwpDdVceWh&vxp=mtr
the drivelines are better (IMO):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BLAS...KIT-/301513698837?vxp=mtr&hash=item46339dee15
the driveline includes an extra full size friction to replace the wavy washer and skinny friction of the stock set-up, the tusk may also ?
Go with the drive line. Awk reccomened them to me awhile back, now that's all I'll buy.
They are a great product at a good price.
They are a great product at a good price.
read the description down in the driveline performance ad (link above)
they've tested them all on big HP engines on a dyno
kevlar glazes up and slips quicker than a good cork fiber.
and you'll pay double for the barnetts versus the driveline
Just ordered the driveline setup hopefully I enjoy it as much as you, thanks for the help!
So when I pull the old set up I should replace the 7 plates and wavy washer with all 8 plates from driveline? problem im running into is they told me to start and end with a friction plate but I don't have enough drive plates for all 8 friction plates and if I run just 7 of the driveline plates im left with a huge amount of play
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The drive line kit gives you both frictions, a new thinner one that goes with the wave washer, and a full size replacement for that wavy nonsense.
Throw the thinner one and wave washer away.
Use all the remaining full size frictions and steels.
And as said, start and finish with a friction.
Also, make sure the dot on pressure plate lines up with the dot on the inner clutch basket,
or it will not allow the pressure plate to fall into place (it only goes one way with dots aligned)
if not it will seem like you have alot of play between pressure plate and discs
Throw the thinner one and wave washer away.
Use all the remaining full size frictions and steels.
And as said, start and finish with a friction.
Also, make sure the dot on pressure plate lines up with the dot on the inner clutch basket,
or it will not allow the pressure plate to fall into place (it only goes one way with dots aligned)
if not it will seem like you have alot of play between pressure plate and discs
They're in now I just have to adjust it since it feels like there is nothing to my lever anymore
Follow the internal rod adjustment shown in the KOR assembly vids.
Found in the engine section under the "most useful posts" thread.
Or search Ken Oconnor Racing on YouTube then find the 4/5 part blaster engine assembly vids on his channel, I think the rod adjustment is in part 3 or 4.
Or I'll link them here later after I get home and off my phone.
Copy/pasting is difficult on my cell for some reason ? ;(
Found in the engine section under the "most useful posts" thread.
Or search Ken Oconnor Racing on YouTube then find the 4/5 part blaster engine assembly vids on his channel, I think the rod adjustment is in part 3 or 4.
Or I'll link them here later after I get home and off my phone.
Copy/pasting is difficult on my cell for some reason ? ;(
