clutch actuator hitting my carb bowl...

[ryguy21s22]

i was adjusting my pressure plate push rod: when i did this i took off my clutch cable, pushed the actuator completely forward turned the push rod screw until i felt resistance on the clutch actuator and stopped. tightened the nut. is this correct?

i noticed two things once the cable was hooked up and unhooked.

1.) the clutch actuator was hitting the bottom of my carb bowl with the clutch let out preventing it to retract completely.
1.) b. tors was in the way for rotating my carb a tad to get it out of the way so i used a zip tie on the air box boot side of the carb and tied it to my frame to lift it up a tad

2.) when the clutch cable was off, i noticed the actuator i could push down slightly but would pop back up a tad. and with the carb out of the way and cable disconnected it didnt want to retract all the way back.

side note: i did replace crank seal, crank collar, filed clutch basket. i never tipped quad to one side and never noticed my push rod ball falling out im almost certain its still there.

 

[ryguy21s22]

any advice on what to do with the clutch actuator, push rod and clutch settings, clutch actuator hitting carb, and clutch actuator itself not retracting completely would be appreciated.

 

[Blaaster]

A reed spacer plate will allow more room to clear the actuator.
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-blaster-repair-manual-supplement-1916/

 

[ryguy21s22]

ty, great idea cant believe i didnt think of that so simple! lol does that spring on the clutch actuator wear out over time? i think maybe ill take it apart and clean it well that should help with full movement.

 

[Blaaster]

Springs do not generally loose their tension, but in this day and age where so many parts are made of inferior materials , things do happen.

As to the spacer plate, it will move the powerband up or down the pipe depending on where you put it.

Between the reeds and jug lower, between the reeds and the carb up the pipe.

 

[bummer981]

X2 on the reed spacer.

 

[rich1]

any advice on what to do with the clutch actuator, push rod and clutch settings, clutch actuator hitting carb, and clutch actuator itself not retracting completely would be appreciated.

I would take the clutch cover off and see if the plates move correctly...if not see KORs #3 video on set up.

 

[ryguy21s22]

on my break i just looked in my clymer manual at home, adjusted the push rod and then adjusted the clutch lever adjustment till the clutch actuator lined up with the casting line on the case half....clutch feels good, stiff but good, and the plates have good movement ids say 3/16 or so.

i pulled the clutch actuator out cleanned it up it was pretty dirty, put sum high temp bearing grease in the needle bearing, and replace the seal.

next is replace stator side crank seal just need to pick up a drill bit.

 

[Awk08]

on my break i just looked in my clymer manual at home, adjusted the push rod and then adjusted the clutch lever adjustment till the clutch actuator lined up with the casting line on the case half....clutch feels good, stiff but good, and the plates have good movement ids say 3/16 or so.
.

nice save, the way you listed above was incorrect.
what carb you running ? that it has the actuator hitting the bowl, thats usually only the case on larger carbs, not the stock carb. do you have the rear intake boot hooked to the frame nub ?

 

[ryguy21s22]

yea its the stock carb and yes i hooked the intake boot to the frame nub, that was i was baffled why it was hitting my carb and it still may...i still have to reattache my carb...we will c...carb is stock mikuni.

 

[Awk08]

You should be fine with the actuator adjusted properly using a stock carb.

Be sure you adjusting it with the pointer on the case notch and not for a stretched cable

 

[ryguy21s22]

brand new clutch cable and throttle cable