Can't kick

[Blaaster]

Each time you change the oil/fuel ratio you need to re jet.

I do not conform to the 32:1 rule as I run a lot of WOT as my Son does as well.

My preference is 25:1 with Maxima Castor 927, and jet slightly on the rich side.

We ride in a very hot environment here and can safely hold the throttle wide open for a long time.

Trail riding will not suffer, but the extra oil can put a dent in your pocket.

Running the extra oil will add just a little more power owing to better ring sealing.

Jet correctly, confirmed by a plug chop, and you should never have problems with a fouled plug.

 

[RoloTheMan]

I got the blaster to idle fine. Now when I even slightly touch the throttle it starts to idle very high then drops. But if I press in the throttle any more than probably half way it starts to bog and I have to let go of the throttle or else it will shut off.

 

[Blaaster]

What were the results of the leak test you did after fitting up everything?

 

[RoloTheMan]

What were the results of the leak test you did after fitting up everything?

I never did a leak test. How do I do one?

 

[Awk08]

I never did a leak test. How do I do one?

no leakdown test
how bout the heat cycles and retorque the head/base nuts ?

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/


http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/blaster-engine-break-in.44174/

 

[RoloTheMan]

no leakdown test
how bout the heat cycles and retorque the head/base nuts ?

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/


http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/blaster-engine-break-in.44174/

sh*t missed an important step
Never had the bike on for more than 3-4 minutes trying to figure out the idle issue. When i finally got it to a good idle I ended up putting the bike away to go to work. No work tomorrow so I was planning to figure everything out and do the proper break-in tomorrow.

 

[Awk08]

sh*t missed an important step
Never had the bike on for more than 3-4 minutes trying to figure out the idle issue. When i finally got it to a good idle I ended up putting the bike away to go to work. No work tomorrow so I was planning to figure everything out and do the proper break-in tomorrow.

your good, as long as you havent ridden it, those few times you had it running then shut down to cool off could count as heat cycles, although it should be full warmup then full cool down, at least 3 times, then retorque head/base nuts.
i'd do 1 or 2 more full heat/cool cycles just to be sure, then retorque

 

[RoloTheMan]

your good, as long as you havent ridden it, those few times you had it running then shut down to cool off could count as heat cycles, although it should be full warmup then full cool down, at least 3 times, then retorque head/base nuts.
i'd do 1 or 2 more full heat/cool cycles just to be sure, then retorque

Should i still do the leak test. Will probably go to Home Depot tomorrow to build one.

 

[Awk08]

Should i still do the leak test. Will probably go to Home Depot tomorrow to build one.

most certainly you should still leakdown test it,
unless this was just a test rebuild and you want to do it all over again soon

/\ how many PVC parts does it take to build a leakdown tester ?
this is about 10 too many

 

[Blaaster]

 

[Blaaster]

Pretend that you have never started it!

Leak test.

Do 3 heat cycles, bringing the engine up to operating temperature, and let cool for at least 30 minutes?

Re tension head 20 ft lbs and cylinder 18 ft lbs.

Start it up and set the idle as per specs, or you can do this withe the first heat cycle.

Ride 2 tanks of fuel through at no more than 3/4 throttle, then grip and rip doing a plug chop to confirm the jetting.

 

[Larry's Shee]

You would be amazed at how much you have to turn the head/base nuts to torque them after heat cycles. You'd think you didn't do them right first time around.