Can't go full throttle or it stalls

langlais23

New Member
Apr 27, 2014
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Please help me out soon!!! I can't go open throttle on my blaster or it just stalls out and shuts off...I don't know what the problem is.my friend said it could be the top end but it was rebuilt and currently has 20.1 hours on it. I bought it off a mechanic a few months ago and he rebuilt the top end. I just want to know what is wrong so I can beat all my buddies ti end all discussions... I can ride at like "medium" throttle (if that's what you want to call it). But as soon as I open up it stalls. Keep In mind when you answer I have the stock clutch which works fine but is a little shaky and the actual lever is loose, I have it bored 40. Over, and I have a k&n air filter.

Thanks for any help and please get back to me ASAP so u can fix the problem
 
Heaps of problems fill my mind.

Float level.

Blocked fuel line.

Air leak.

Main jet laying in float bowl.

Incorrect or fouling spark plug.

TORS malfunction.

Blocked air filter.

Blockage in exhaust port.

The list goes on.

Did the PO leak test after rebuild, or did you, if not, why not. Leak test before you proceed further.
 
I don't know if he leak tested it...and for sure I didnt...so should I just check all of these things or would it be easier for me to just take it to a shop...
 
Is it simple to do the stuff stated above...I'm not a real mechanic but u can do simple stuff
 
Depends on what "they" think is wrong. Shop rate is @ $ 60/hr. +

List all of your "mods" (modifications) what year is it? Tors removed or at least unplugged? (pre 03)
Start with the simple things. Check the plug first, b8es. Clean the carb (because you will check for the main jet having come loose , right?)
While carb is apart right down main and pilot jet sizes, number ofturns on air screw, maybe needle clip setting.
Start checking off things that Blaaster listed.


Maybe the "mechanic" you bought off of will cut you a deal.
 
Also, can you describe better what/how it dies?
Is it sudden like you turn off key?
Does it burble, blubber, or fart? Or does it sound kind of flat? Back-fire?
If you let off throttle, does it keep running? Is it hard to start after this? Is this in any gear?
Does it happen if you try to rev in neutral?
 
Is it hard to start, does it require many really fast kicks to get it started? Mine would die at WOT and could only be started by kicking really hard and fast about 15 times, or push starting it. Turned out I had about 60psi compression not to mention all the air leaks.
 
You can take it to a shop, but I'd recommend doing it yourself. Everything you ever need to know about Blasters can be learned on this site. If you have a problem, we can teach you. We can teach you as much as you want to learn.

That being said, I'd do all of these things:

Take that K&N and store it for when you need to strain your trans oil to make sure there are no metal pieces in it. Then, buy a $30 UNI and $12.99 foam filter oil. I work on these things 7 days a week and it would blow your mind to see the dirt that a K&N lets past it.

Next, take the carb out. This is a really simple process and below average mechanic skills will suffice.

Go to http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-carbureutor.254/ and follow the instructions. Also, take note of the main jet size (shown in #5 of the link) and tell us what it is.

Find pictures of a leak down tester and build one for yourself. A lot of people think they're some fancy, cool gizmo, but they're as much an integral part of PROPERLY building/maintaining/diagnosing an engine as having a 10mm socket. This is similar to the one I just built. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2475X1AplCA/TKkfALO1zFI/AAAAAAAAAoo/0tk5lJm0rSY/s1600/DSCN1461_508.jpg

Do a plug chop. http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/

Remove TORS. http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/

Do you have trouble starting? If so, I'd check reeds and compression.

Get back to us on all of these things. It will take some time, but the hardest part is getting out there and turning the first wrench. If you work for hours on something and that turns out to have not affected the problem, well at least you know that at least that is functioning as it should.

Patience saves money, I promise you. Waiting on the chance to leak test your engine for under $50 can very easily save you an entirely new engine. Same with jetting. Waiting on that $50 worth of jets instead of riding can also save you an engine.