Can NOT get my intake boot to seal to reed cage. HELP!

ThPranksta

New Member
Aug 21, 2012
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North Florida
As the title states I can not get my intake boot to air tight seal. I've changed reed cages,intake boots,used 1 & 2 Yamaha brand gaskets,new bolts and washers,coated gaskets with Ultra Copper thin and thick,tightening to 5.8 ft lbs of torque. Still leaking between the boot and cage on the top and bottom in the middle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.:(
 
The reason it won’t seal is because something is distorted from being over torqued. Take a flat file and pass it across the intake on the cylinder. This is most likely the problem. Keep taking passes until the surface is flat. Make sure you don’t get any chips in the cylinder. You can do this by coating the intake ports with a thin layer of grease and stuffing it with a towel. Next, lap your reed cage. This can be done by passing the flat surface of the cage over a piece of 220 grit sandpaper with some WD-40 on it over a flat surface. Use a figure 8 motion while lapping. A kitchen counter top will work fine. Once you have both surfaces flat, use an anaerobic sealer like 1194, 1104, 1184 (Three Bond) or Yamabond. DON’T USE SILICONE!!!!! Gas will destroy rubber every time. Spread a THIN even coat on the cylinder and install a NEW gasket. Spread another coat on the other side of the gasket and install the reed cage and intake boot. If it still leaks, you need a new reed cage and / or intake boot.
 
Yay Ken,

It never fails to amaze me at the number of times I have seen distortion from people using the "feel" method of tensioning, and thinking that they can get it right without a tension wrench, or the incorrect assembly technique, ( little by little, diagonally).

A perfect seal can be ruined by just one overtight nut or bolt!
 
10 or 12 inch flat bastard will do the job fine.

I like to put it on a sheet of 400 grit abrasive paper on a sheet of plate glass and work in a figure of 8 motion to finish the job.