bogging in higher gears/higher rpm

Imacf90

Member
Jan 26, 2016
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So, I've recently got my blaster to run. it starts on first kick every time, although pulling the choke out will kill it. my tors was giving me problems so i just put a delete kit on it. the idle screw has to be in all the way or it'll idle at very low rpm's or it may even not idle at all. i can't seem to get the float level right. it keeps leaking out of the overflow on the bottom of the carb unless its running. i rebuilt it with stock jets and put the air fuel mixture 3 turns out.
it does idle and it does run, but it's getting really choppy. when i pull the clutch in it rev's up high. it boggs out once i either get into high rpm's or almost as soon as it gets into 4th. sometimes it boggs out, other times its ok for a bit. there was a huge air leak when i bought it, so i replaced all of the seals and torqued everything down. i've ridden it a handful of times after i got it to run.
sorry if this information is a mess. i'm trying to give as much information as possible.


anyone have any suggestions? any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you
-ian
 
Welcome to the forum...First off I would make sure it's leak free. Then set the float to 21mm . If it's still leaking you'll need a new needle seat or your float has a crack in it which is rare . Sounds like you need to file down the idle screw boss so the screw actually hits the slide . Clean the carb after . Start with the air screw at 1.5 turns out and make sure the washer is under the main jet . What are your mods and jetting now ?
 
it has the stock jetting. i used the moose racing rebuild kit. didn't replace the needle, though. stock pipe, fmf power core 2 silencer. im not sure how many times its been bored. its an '88... its has been through a lot. i compression tested it and it came in around 130.
 
So you have cleaned the carb and had the jets out? Stock air filter? There is a sticky in carb section on how to set float. Used new float needle? No gasket in place when measuring. New plug? Nice blue spark?
New seals or not, a leakdown test is recommended. Have you inspected reeds?
Tors disabled?
 
i took the carb apart. cleaned the hell out of it and put in the new jets from the kit. the new needle went in, too. i meant that i didnt put in the long thin needle that attaches to the slide. all of the jets matched up, they were just new. it has a stock filter. brand new spark plug with lots of spark. the tors was broken on it so i put a tors delete kit on it. and lastly... as i was putting in the new gaskets, i inspected the reeds and cleaned them up before i put it all back together.

im not sure if its normal to re torque the head after a certain amount of hours running new seals. it seems that could be the culprit. when i got it, the carb had a screw in the overflow tube on the bowl to keep it from pissing everywhere. someone lost the drain screw and it was bipassing the tube in the bowl and going straight out. i found a longer screw that kept it from leaking but even setting the floats correctly, i still had issues with it. ill have to look into that again seeing how its rebuilt.

thanks
-ian

So you have cleaned the carb and had the jets out? Stock air filter? There is a sticky in carb section on how to set float. Used new float needle? No gasket in place when measuring. New plug? Nice blue spark?
New seals or not, a leakdown test is recommended. Have you inspected reeds?
Tors disabled?
 
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The bowl drain screw is special, tapered at end to match a taper in bowl.
yeah i checked out my friends as he was cleaning his and i saw that. the screw i put in goes in far enough to block the hole, though. ive tested it
 
thanks for the help guys. i had to pull the needle out with some force cause of some junk that must have gone through the line. it hasnt started leaking yet... the head needed a little tightening. so i guess it was everything you guys mentioned.

thanks for the help
til next time
-ian