I have an 1988 Blaster, it has sat for a long time. I have replaced ign coil, plug and cdi, cleaned the carb and the reeds seem good my dig micrometer is dead so I can't check thickness. I have done the tors removal ( it was bad anyway) . I have good compression, spark. Only one side of the reeds seem to be wet, the plug never really seems wet. I have also removed the eng switch, light switch, and lights If feel like I'm missing something stupid, can someone please help?
Blaster won't start
- Thread starter chevyayers
- Start date
Thank you I pulled the main jet bleeder out, it was so bad that I'm just going to replace it. I also found that what seemed to be good compression it only had 20psi so I'm going to replace the top end. Thank you
When you did the compression check did you hold the throttle wide open and kick it until you got your highest reading? 20 psi sounds like the motor is tore all to h..l! I have seen some blown motors but never one with 20psi. Make sure your tester is good also. Just a thought.
Ok so I have replaced the top end, and replace the needle jet. It now starts every time but it will only run for 10 - 30 seconds and it doesn't seem to matter if you feather the throttle and it almost sounds like it's idling high. I have adjusted the idle screw and it never seems to change. It almost seems like it uses all the fuel in the bowl and then runs out. Please Help.
drain the gas and pull the petcock out and take it apart and clean it.....if it sat for a few years its prolly gummed up
How about another idea please. Did all that seems to idle longer sometimes it sounds like a hard idle. On wide open throttle it make that deep babababa sound. I even tried moving the needle jet up 1 notch and down 1 notch from center didn't seem to change much. What affect would the reeds have on this and if the TORS removal wasn't done correct could it make this problem? I might try to rig up my 89 Kdx carb. Please help losing my mind.
Yes I'm more than certian the piston is in right arrow fwd and gaps to the back. The TORS removal all I need to do is unplug it and the box and at the bars? If I'm not using oil injection do I need to buy a kit or should I just cap the lines? Finally will the bike idle with the air filter disconnected because more time s than not I've had it disconnected because it's a B---h it get on and off? Thank you
The wires that come out of the throttle to the tors box need to be twisted together the wires for the tors box,for it to run if they are not that maybe your problem.
Ok so I twisted all the wires together no difference. I did get it run run for min or two. Still seems to idle rough and as soon as u push the throttle in it dies. What do u think about rejetting it and new reeds? If I do rejet it which way should I go? My oil ratio is 32.1 and it seems to be smoking alot. Thanks
Did you check for any air leaks? My carb was leaking, at the cap, choke and where you cap it from the oil blockoff..... And it would not suck gas from the carb into the motor.... It would run but die when the gas ran out of the motor...
