Blaster will not start. Please read & help!!

[hahau8mysand]

Hi, I'm new to the board so if I posted in the wrong thread or something...sorry. Anyhow I'm going to tell you straight out what I have done so please do not ask me to check these things again...lol. Trust me they have been checked. I am a very handy with bikes. I have a 2006 suzuki ltr 498 big bore with a +4 stroker crank dynoed at 66 hp and a 88 honda 250r 370 big bore with a +5 stroker dynoed at 71 hp. However this darn blaster is got me in a tailspin. Here's what's going on....please help!
Will not kickstart, plug is not wet, but it is getting fuel so I tried to jump start it. Just sputtered and backfired for ever then finally fired, but I could not give it more than a quarter throttle gas or it would die. It also would not idle. So I did this...
Put in a new spark plug then another
Checked reeds (good no cracks or breaks)
Cleaned carb put in a new stock pilot and main jet floats did not need to be adjusted so I left them be
Tried another carb
Removed the whole tors wiring and box put in idle screw (have great spark)
Put on a used cdi
Checked woodruff key (its fully intact not sheared, flywheel is good no play)
Installed new main seals
Installed new base and head gasets
Made sure the exhaust was not clogged
Air filter is new
Piston has new rings 130 psi of compression
Coil is good within specs
Went through all my wiring harness via diagram (its good)
Its a all stock 88 blaster. I've never had electrical problems before, the only thing I can th ink it is now is a bad stator. But I have solid good bright blue spark. Does anybody have a book with the specs on what a stator should read in ohlms on a meter? If so please email me a attatchment. I'm so stumped.
Any other sugestions??? Its my nieces bike. She really wants to ride it again.

Blaster specs: engine all stock, white full rear fenders, cascade red white blue black seat cover, red blue shock covers, cascade red blue white cover, blue nnose cone and gas cover, black frame, black aarms and swingarm, banshee front hydralic brakes with blaster spindles, banshee rear brake, banshee vbars, front smoothies on douglas wheels, rear haulers banshee hubs douglas wheels, front fenders removed.


All the bikes I own: 2006 suzuki ltr450 498 big bore, +4 stroker and more 66 hp on dyno (wifes bike), 1988 honda 250r decked out chrome custom painted 370 big bore +5 stroker and more 71 hp on dyno (my bike), 2002 yamaha yz250f yoshi pipe full hot wheels graphics kit (wifes bike) 2001 honda cr250 vforce reeds ported pro circuit pipe blacked out warp 9 wheels and so on (my bike) 2002 honda xr50 88 big bore bbr bars clutch all pink with skull graphics (wifes pit bike) 2003 honda xr50 all stock with bbr bars all pink with graphics (nieces bike) 2003 suzuki lt50 all stock ( 2 year old sons quad) 2006 kawasaki klx50 with training wheels (2 year old sons bike) 1998 honda trx90 blue maier plastic 48 tooth rear sprocket faster govener removed (newphews bike) 2002 honda xr50 all stock (newphews bike) 1989 honda cr125 spare bike for friends to ride for sale, 1988 honda trx250r my dirt quad all stock for sale

 

[hillbilly09]

sounds like its still a issue with the tors

 

[jlsparky7]

sheered flywheel key, tors, stator or cdi....

 

[Blaner]

check your float level. other than that id say you missed something on the TORS removal. are you running stock oil injection or premixing....or BOTH?

Have you not got your stator plate on upside down?

 

[hahau8mysand]

Thanks for the replys however I know Its not tors for sure. Its completly removed from the wiring harness. I went throught the diagram via the book and everything is right. I removed it exactly how you are supposed to, I even watched the you tube video on the removal. All my wires are good too (no cuts or knicks in wires). I have good spark. Also its not a carb issue. I completly went through the carb. The floats are perfect, I'm certain I've rebuilt many carbs lol. The flywheel key is good, fully intact. The only thing I'm thinking is its a bad cdi stator. It doesn't make since tho because I have good bright blue spark consistanly. I had a rm250 in the past that the cdi went out on and the spark was in and out. So I don't think its my cdi. That just leaves me wondering about the stator. The oil injection is still hooked up, but it does pump, I made sure of it.
Does any body have the specs / tolarences for a stator?
Anybody ever have a problem on a stator? If so, how did it act?

 

[Awk08]

all electrical checks and "supposed" ohms are in the manual, it starts on page 202

http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf

click "file", then "save as" to your choice of locations to download it for future use or print out

i say "supposed" above, because quite a few of us "more than handy" guys on here have gotten different(low) ohm readings than suggested in the manual and the bike still runs ?????

i'd try starting it with the pipe off the cylinder to verify that pipe is indeed free flowing
how did you verify the pipe isnt clogged ????

then i'd give the plug boot/wire a good hard look, it'll spark good/forever, until placed in the cylinder and under pressure/load
if the plug connection in the boot is bad, or the wire itself

was this just rebuilt ????
if so, dumb questions of the day......is the piston in the right direction ??? was it leakdown tested ???

and heres another electrical procedure i copied and pasted from another thread on here...............

Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.

 

[PadGeni]

i would check stator.

 

[slickerthanyou]

My vote is the coil. I have had some bad luck with these. As AWK said just because it doesn't Ohm out good doesn't mean it's bad. If you have a source to try a known good Ign. coil I'd start there.

I almost forgot, DO a leakdown test on it since the reedcage has been off!

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

 

[hahau8mysand]

I took the pipe off to check the rings. While it was off I sprayed the hose through it then let it sit for a few days to dry out. I had a cr250 one time that was clogged with oil and that cleaned it right out. The pipe on the blaster is all stock. It looked really clean. It has no dings or dents. I tried starting it already with the pipe off and it just backfires and pops. It acts like my timing is off. Usually on my other bikes I can adjust the marks. But there is no marks on this. Can you buy a adjustable stator for a blaster?
The coil is good. I probed the orange wire and It lights the light up. I forgot to mension the boot is new. Also I have a spark plug in the jug and a spark plug tester on it so I can see it light up the light on it consistantly. I have also just taken the plug out and put it on the jug and checked my spark. Its always there and good. My coil was within specs so I don't believe that is my issue, but electrical is really tricky. I've been to local electrical shop a few times on bikes.
Yes the arrow is facing forward. It has new crank seals and top end gaskets. Reeds are fine.
It ticked me off so much i bought a 99 blaster today. So when I get a chance I'm going to switch all the electrical and hope it fires. Ill let everybody know what happens.

 

[Awk08]

It ticked me off so much i bought a 99 blaster today. So when I get a chance I'm going to switch all the electrical and hope it fires. Ill let everybody know what happens.

sounds like you've covered everything, a parts swap bike will make things easy !!!!!

 

[TeamChaos99]

i have the same exact problem with my blaster, ordered an ignition coil to check