blaster rebuild with advice needed

[Rob-daisy]

Okay so after owning my blaster for a total of 3 weeks the engine has now gone!

However Im in the middle of moving house so as soo as we are unpacked the enginenwill be coming out to start the rebuild.

Now as for the things i would like advise on, im going to do a complete top and bottom end rebuild, firstly got to see what bore then engine is at amd them decide if i should have it bored out more,

First thing is i want it quicker typically but also still be reliable, what sort of bore is a good size to get both, also what would then be worth chamging along with the rebore, such a jetting and reeds or anything else you think is worth doing.

Also have been reading up on the tors removal and air filter lid, while im doing the strip down are these worth doing?

thanks to all answers and as soon as i start the strip down i will get some pictures up

 

[Face78]

There's people that have more knowledge than me on this forum. But I can tell you to get a leak tester for after the rebuild. To help put off the next rebuild. Good luck!

 

[Blaaster]

The very first thing to do before you rip it apart is to leak test to see if the engine is air tight.

Most engine fatalities stem from an air leak somewhere.

For extra speed and torque an aftermarket pipe is the first thing to consider.

Depending on where you ride and what you want to achieve, will determine what pipe you should buy.

There are different pipes for different applications.

 

[speedyslyder]

it looks like a nice one what pipe is that?Did it run when you got it?
Is motor locked up?

 

[Rob-daisy]

Cheers all, the riding i do is mainly on road with the occasional off road, would like a bit more top end aswell. Maybe need to lok into gear ratios aswell.

As for buying it, it did run but the day after i got it noticed a loud knocking noise which seemed to get wprse after ibroke down on the 3rd or 4th ride out now it wont start at all, done other checks has a really good spark aswell.

as for the leak down test was told if i had intended to do a complete rebuild i wont need one until i was putting it back together, anyone else highlight this,

also the exhaust is a bills pipe, quite like it but at the same time i like the look of the fmf pipes to

 

[Blaaster]

Bills pipe is good! Looks do not make a great pipe.

You need to leak test it now to see if it is air tight!

An air leak could have caused a lean mix and fried the piston.

Have you done a compression test yet?

 

[Rob-daisy]

Havent done compression or leak test. Will be removi g the engine in a few weeks then will do a leak test.

 

[Rob-daisy]

Is this kit going to do the job http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=291053914945

 

[Larry's Shee]

You in U.K. ?
That's what I use, got it from Harbor Freight. Can either use spark plug hole, or if you use PVC plumbing cap in intake you could drill hole and thread it in. If you use it in plug hole have to remove tank.
That regulater makes it easy if you have a leak as your compressor will keep pumping air while you spray the soapy water.

 

[Rob-daisy]

Yeah im in the uk, makes grtting blaster parts a royal pain as its all got to be imported. Do you need a compressor to use that kit or would an electric pump do it

 

[Rob-daisy]

Bit of an update today. Started taking the engine out today, had 2 snapped bolts om the reed holder so need to dril them out plus there was a broken reed. Any advice on this and what sort of problems this could have caused?

 

[Rob-daisy]

Bump for some advice

 

[MercMenace]

what I know about reeds breaking is 1. There is no reed stops. and 2. they dry out and get brittle.

 

[Fast6hand]

what I know about reeds breaking is 1. There is no reed stops. and 2. they dry out and get brittle.

I second that. We're the OEM reed stops on there?

 

[Rob-daisy]

Yeah i think the stops were in there