Well I took my bike out for the 2nd test run and I have good and bad news. The clutch is officially fixed thanks to loctite! But now I'm having possible carb issues. I think I have fouledmy first plug. Does the bike just not want to start? I was riding and I turned the bike off and it just would not start! Had to tow it back. Anyways is it my jetting? I'm running a 290 main with a full fmf and aftermarket reeds. Kansas city elevation. I also noticed the bike starts a ton better with no choke. Typically on first kick. I'm running 32:1 ratio.haven't tried to start it with a new plug yet.
blaster problem
- Thread starter cap9709
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You running the correct plug.... BR8ES?
Air box lid?
Sounds like it could be rich or not burning hot enough.
Air box lid?
Sounds like it could be rich or not burning hot enough.
Ok so no lid then. Sounds close. Id put a new NGK B8ES to be safe. Try to get the one without the R (Resistor ... not needed) for a slightly stronger spark. Then you need to perform a leak down. Check for leaks then plug chop to confirm jetting. It sounds close tho. I would think a 270 would be pretty close.
links to tests, tuning and troubleshooting in here..........
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/troubleshooting-maintenance-guide-30347/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/troubleshooting-maintenance-guide-30347/
FMF= #260 main jet, plus one for 32:1, plus two for no airbox lid = #290, should be in the ball park, plug chop to confirm.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
What's the best way to cut the threads off? I'll end up just posting the pics on here so the "pros" can tell me what I got. What about the little screw on the side of the carb? Mine was 1 and a half out. Also why did it start better with the choke off and when it is on it dies? Thanks!!!
Hacksaw, dremel. small angle grinder, grannys old false teeth, anything that comes to hand.
If the motor starts better with the choke off, the float level could be wrong or rghe bowl is flooding.
The oil pump should be removed and/or disabled and the injection nipple on the carby must be tightly blocked off.
Failure to block of the carby nipple wil result in a very lean mixture = Boom.
A dry running pump could cause problems.
I used a little vacuum seal nipple to cover mine up an air leak there is bad for business th carb is the one place a leaktest wont show make sure it's air tight completely. They sell an actually block off kit.
Any autoparts store would have them in the help section. I:I
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