well i fixed my clutch problem, but now i can't get it started, seems to not be getting a spark, switched out my stator because the one installed wasn't giving a reading on the ohm meter, and now i still can't get the blaster to fire up, anyone??
blaster not getting a spark
- Thread starter TeamChaos99
- Start date
Earthing can play a major part in spark problems, check for good earths and meter your wires to check for shorts or open circuit.
As unlikely as it seems, wires can break internally after fiddling with them!
As unlikely as it seems, wires can break internally after fiddling with them!
Stupid question I know, new spark plug. Check the plug cap boot, that can give problems.
Is the flywheel installed right and not slipped and broken the key.
Parking break off.
Throttle switch working and key turned on?
Is the flywheel installed right and not slipped and broken the key.
Parking break off.
Throttle switch working and key turned on?
i haven't replaced the spark plug yet, going to pick one up in a little bit, and the flywheel is installed correctly
Stick your little pinky up the plug boot and give the motor a kick, good way to see if there is anything there , but smarts a little if it is working.
put a new spark plug in, tried kicking it over, didn't work, it tried to start but wouldn't fire over, tried pop starting it, it turned over for a little bit but when i gave it gas it died, also after i tried to pop start it, and went to kick start it, it was making a loud pop from the silencer, anyone??
Am I right you now have spark? You must have some spark otherwise it would not fire.
How did you tighten up the flywheel, it's got to be pretty tight. If that little key in the flywheel is sheared it can cause exhaust popping.
Also too much fuel from getting a gut full from excessive kicking without spark. Is the plug wet with fuel, if so tow it around with the plug out and the fuel off and the throttle closed to purge it.
Have you checked that the fuel system is working correctly?
How did you tighten up the flywheel, it's got to be pretty tight. If that little key in the flywheel is sheared it can cause exhaust popping.
Also too much fuel from getting a gut full from excessive kicking without spark. Is the plug wet with fuel, if so tow it around with the plug out and the fuel off and the throttle closed to purge it.
Have you checked that the fuel system is working correctly?
Sounds like a ground issue. I see no tors and it doesn't have e-brake switch. I jumper a test light on the Ign. coil and see if the light is bright or dim! Bright is good dim points to maybe the coil, Power wire going to coil, or source coil.
i chased a very similar problem once on my sons bike, i changed every conceivable electrical part there is off of my running bike to his, ken oconnor, tarmo and myself fugged with it for a few hours one day, still nuthin
ended up being in the wiring harness, right where it crosses over the frame from under the hood to the engine area, there is a 3 wire ground tap, i've heard that gets loose sometimes, but mine was worn thru touching the black/wh stripe wire, which is the same 2 wires that go to the key, and killswitch, essentially acting as an in harness killswitch itself
just sumthin else to look for ????
have you swapped the coil and cdi to known working ones ????
are you getting a strong pulse to the coil (orange wire) a test light is best for that, should light brightly each revolution of the flywheel
double check the ground at the coil, the coil itself, and plug wire/boot, mine and my buddies boots both just went bad, 2 weekends in a row ????
check below for more tests,
then start tearing into that wire harness
heres some other info,
copy and pasted from a post by..........brandoz ??????
Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
ended up being in the wiring harness, right where it crosses over the frame from under the hood to the engine area, there is a 3 wire ground tap, i've heard that gets loose sometimes, but mine was worn thru touching the black/wh stripe wire, which is the same 2 wires that go to the key, and killswitch, essentially acting as an in harness killswitch itself
just sumthin else to look for ????
have you swapped the coil and cdi to known working ones ????
are you getting a strong pulse to the coil (orange wire) a test light is best for that, should light brightly each revolution of the flywheel
double check the ground at the coil, the coil itself, and plug wire/boot, mine and my buddies boots both just went bad, 2 weekends in a row ????
check below for more tests,
then start tearing into that wire harness
heres some other info,
copy and pasted from a post by..........brandoz ??????
Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
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