okay so today me and some friends were trying to romove tors the back yard way, we removed the throttle button thing and connected the two wires together for it, then we unplugged the connector by the carb, so we started it, and as it did start it revved all the way with no throttle at all I unplugged the spark plug wire b4 we all ran, it was still running and when i ran back to it i unconnected the 2 wires and still running then didnt die, so when we all got beside each other one freind said pull the gas line so i did, almost had a heart attack after wards, and then we get to the four whheler we hooked up all the stuff back together, then someone said it may have been cause i turned tors screw up all the way, so i turned it done all the to the left and now we started 2 do the idle screws again cause thats what we were doing b4 we messed with it,l and i set the carb screw out 1 1/2, and now when i turn tors screw up some it idles HIGH, i think it may be the tors cap, is there a certain amount you need to twist it? cause when i turn it it kinda idles better?
big t.o.r.s problem!-!
- Thread starter hartman1162
- Start date
the "tors screw" is the idle
turning it in is gonna make it idle higher, the airscrew is not for adjusting idle
i'd suggest you do a search on here and read up on "tors removal" before you fry your chit !!!!!
88-02 tors removal only requires unplugging the brain under the hood, and cutting out all the wiring, not connecting them
03+ tors removal requires cutting and splicing the 2 throttle wires together and 2 carb wires together
turning it in is gonna make it idle higher, the airscrew is not for adjusting idle
i'd suggest you do a search on here and read up on "tors removal" before you fry your chit !!!!!
88-02 tors removal only requires unplugging the brain under the hood, and cutting out all the wiring, not connecting them
03+ tors removal requires cutting and splicing the 2 throttle wires together and 2 carb wires together
all right and how much should i move the tors screw so it will not do that again?, and i am worried about frying it, and need it to idle right so i can do a compression test asap
Yeah I agree. Read the threads about TORS removal. Also if it starts revving out of control again and the kill switches dont have any affect. Dont just pull the gas line, you'll have a fried or damaged engine by the time its done burning the fuel in the bowl and line. Just put it in its highest gear and hold the brakes while dumping the clutch.
I dont think the screw is your problem. And you do a compression test while the engine is off not while its running. You have to pull the plug and use that port.
I did not think of that at the time, and as soon as I pulled it off it died so I am guessing no fuel was in the bowl, and I am gonna order a tors kit. And how long would I have had to get it in 6th gear
i know u dont check it running i just thought it should be warmed up before a test?
and awk, i know that deff after it was turned up the way, now when i was adjusting it it like hangs on the to idle and then dies down slow
and awk, i know that deff after it was turned up the way, now when i was adjusting it it like hangs on the to idle and then dies down slow
hanging idle means lean, it either has an airleak or needs more fuel in the pilot circut(idle)
play with your airscrew some, turn it in to 3/4 or 1/2 turn out, then adjust out 1/4 to 1/2 turns at a time, wait 30 seconds between adjustments to give it time to react to the ew setting, you're looking for the highest idle point, then use the screw on the tors to set the idle where you want it
play with your airscrew some, turn it in to 3/4 or 1/2 turn out, then adjust out 1/4 to 1/2 turns at a time, wait 30 seconds between adjustments to give it time to react to the ew setting, you're looking for the highest idle point, then use the screw on the tors to set the idle where you want it
not necessarily, could be that you had the idle screw, or airscrew set wrong
turning the airscrew in adds less air = more fuel
opposite of a 4 stroke fuel screw
If it was still running when the plug wire was off, you could have a serious lean condition causing extreme heat in the combustion chamber causing it to pre ignite.
Do a leak down test. to make sure the motor is air tight!
I believe it was the idle screw up all the way, and it should be fine with no air leak ran fine last time it was ran
I will repeat.
If it was still running when the plug wire was off, you could have a serious lean condition causing extreme heat in the combustion chamber causing it to pre ignite.
It should stop as soon as the plug wire is removed.
Do another leak down test, to make sure the motor is air tight! It should hold 7psi for 10 mins.
If it was still running when the plug wire was off, you could have a serious lean condition causing extreme heat in the combustion chamber causing it to pre ignite.
It should stop as soon as the plug wire is removed.
Do another leak down test, to make sure the motor is air tight! It should hold 7psi for 10 mins.
shoot i just thought maybe when i put it back together something may not have been on right such as exhaust or something?
A very important thing to do when refitting a 2 stroke motor.
Air leaks are notorious for killing motors.
PM Slickerthanyou he may be able to help you out.
