Best Blaster mods for cheap money
- Thread starter 05BLASTERBOY
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keep up on your maintenance.you won't gain power but you will not lose what you already have
Scroll down to find the Blaster templates. In stock and ready to ship.
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/portingtemplates.html
Here's a link that will help. Watch the Blaster porting vids
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/Two Stroke Cylinder Porting.html
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/portingtemplates.html
Here's a link that will help. Watch the Blaster porting vids
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/Two Stroke Cylinder Porting.html
You seem like you know your stuff. Just got my blaster on trade Saturday. Love the machine but I like to jump a lot what kind of mods should I do to improve there on a tight budget
Done the blaster homeport, and had KOR rechamber the head, this on a bike with a 28mm carb,Toomey Exhaust, airbox lid removed, and Dual stage Boyesen reeds (allows removal of the center post of the reed cage). It absolutely woke this little bike up, and put it nearly on par with a yz125 of similar vintage 2002 yz125 's weighted in just shy of 200 lbs and made 33hp. The video mods alone reportedly made 28hp. Add the sport port and power increases quite across the board and even gets a few more horse on top putting it up over 30 horse, while the greatly increasing power throughout the entire midrange where it is needed most. This is what is going g to make it more trail friendly, reduce frantic downshift to keep on the power, etc.
Lookin back I wish I would have had the extra for the sport port templates, I spent hours upon hour reading and studying, made a few changes on my own, and have plenty of power from around 5000 on up to 9200 where overrev ends. Unfortunately, from talking with others it seems I gave up a lot of horsepower, versus the SportPort templates, from idle till about 6000rpm.
The best I can tell is that even with all my studying, and determination to come up with something unique to myself that would work, I was pretty lucky to be close enough, that I only needed to tear it all down once to make porting adjustments that ultimately gave me something rideable. I would strongly reccomend either following the vids to the letter, or getting the templates and watching the KOR banshee porting series which gives alot of info on how to get great results from the templates.
Without the rechambered head I think i would have had to scrap the cylinder and start over, as it just has the power to fast cruise at 4000 rpm, the path starts getting steep and I must gear down and at least keep at or above 5500rpm if i want to keep up the power and speed.
One thing I did right and would do again is getting a little waterproof self powered tach/hour meter, i mounted it on my stem cover. 3m outdoor double sided tape holds well and absorbs some vibration. It only has one wire which wraps around the plug wire. It isn't always easy to read especially with vibrations and bumps at speed, and is a little laggy which worKS fine for me, by the time I feel a peak or the power come on and look down at the tac, it is just starting to show what I want to see, it updates like 2 - 4 times a second. It is also great for setting your air screw. I got mine a generic version of the tiny tach for 10 or $12. It is square and has 2 buttons S1 and S2 to control maintenance reminders, timer resets, and spark frequency.
Lookin back I wish I would have had the extra for the sport port templates, I spent hours upon hour reading and studying, made a few changes on my own, and have plenty of power from around 5000 on up to 9200 where overrev ends. Unfortunately, from talking with others it seems I gave up a lot of horsepower, versus the SportPort templates, from idle till about 6000rpm.
The best I can tell is that even with all my studying, and determination to come up with something unique to myself that would work, I was pretty lucky to be close enough, that I only needed to tear it all down once to make porting adjustments that ultimately gave me something rideable. I would strongly reccomend either following the vids to the letter, or getting the templates and watching the KOR banshee porting series which gives alot of info on how to get great results from the templates.
Without the rechambered head I think i would have had to scrap the cylinder and start over, as it just has the power to fast cruise at 4000 rpm, the path starts getting steep and I must gear down and at least keep at or above 5500rpm if i want to keep up the power and speed.
One thing I did right and would do again is getting a little waterproof self powered tach/hour meter, i mounted it on my stem cover. 3m outdoor double sided tape holds well and absorbs some vibration. It only has one wire which wraps around the plug wire. It isn't always easy to read especially with vibrations and bumps at speed, and is a little laggy which worKS fine for me, by the time I feel a peak or the power come on and look down at the tac, it is just starting to show what I want to see, it updates like 2 - 4 times a second. It is also great for setting your air screw. I got mine a generic version of the tiny tach for 10 or $12. It is square and has 2 buttons S1 and S2 to control maintenance reminders, timer resets, and spark frequency.
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Cheapest and best for blaster shocks and I believe what Ken reccomends if on a budget, is used 400ex rear shock ($20-$30 ebay), and conversion bushings $20 at kenoconnorracing.com on the rear and used banshee shocks on the frony $30-60.
The 400ex shock is fully adjustable and 1/2 longer, the banshee fronts are also 1/2 longer, and people tend to prefer the softer springs, and better valving.
There are some cheap mods that are as good as you're gonna get (rechambered head, no airbox lid), but quality demands money. You can spend the extra and be happier in the end.
Id personally recommend fox floats up front. That way, you can decide for yourself what the front end should feel like. Once you widen it, you still have the abolity to dial it in.
Steering stem from LSR is gonna be superior to stacked clamps. That gives the bolt much more to deal with if you happen to roll it. From there, some good bars and controls will help more than you'd think.
Good tires, good pegs and nerfs, and a good pipe. Wider arms, banshee axle, and good alignment will pay off big time.
Porting should be left to professionals. I did my own stuff for years and got pretty good, but not 5 years worth of experience good. It's also hard to beat more pwoer for $150.
There's a cheap way, a correct way, and an overpayed way. Do research and you'll find the 2 lines between the three states.
Id personally recommend fox floats up front. That way, you can decide for yourself what the front end should feel like. Once you widen it, you still have the abolity to dial it in.
Steering stem from LSR is gonna be superior to stacked clamps. That gives the bolt much more to deal with if you happen to roll it. From there, some good bars and controls will help more than you'd think.
Good tires, good pegs and nerfs, and a good pipe. Wider arms, banshee axle, and good alignment will pay off big time.
Porting should be left to professionals. I did my own stuff for years and got pretty good, but not 5 years worth of experience good. It's also hard to beat more pwoer for $150.
There's a cheap way, a correct way, and an overpayed way. Do research and you'll find the 2 lines between the three states.
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