can i use a cdi box aftermarket with a flywheel key advancer has anyone used either one with positive results
Anyone use a flywheel advancer or cdi box
- Thread starter michaelbell85
- Start date
Forget the flywheel key advancer, waste of money.
Do a stator plate mod and you can choose any timing advances for free, and only 5 minutes more work.
Do a search for +4 timing advance.
Do a stator plate mod and you can choose any timing advances for free, and only 5 minutes more work.
Do a search for +4 timing advance.
I have used advancer keys before on different engines. They did what they were supposed to, advanced the timing as required.
They are weaker than the stock key, but held up for me. I should qualify I was using them on four strokes and Briggs and Stratton motors.
And a chain saw that I recall.
Better to just slot the stator plate bolt holes on the Blaster, so you can adjust it for your advance.
Mark where "stock" is. You may want to know in the future.
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
be wary of timing advances...they can be costly...
this happened to me with +4 timing in very hot weather.
Timing is a dangerous way to produce power, hang it works and gives bottom end like no other but id rather make that up with other methods such as a bigger carb or have the head reshaped.
this happened to me with +4 timing in very hot weather.
Timing is a dangerous way to produce power, hang it works and gives bottom end like no other but id rather make that up with other methods such as a bigger carb or have the head reshaped.
wow i have never seen that before when you put the advance in did the slot go with the rotation of the motor or the opposite
With a + 4deg timing advance I compensate for the extra heat produced by upping the main jet by one or two sizes, I also pre mix at 25:1 with a Castor based oil.
If you are going to advance the ignition you need to use better than 95 octane fuel and a little more of it!
If you are going to advance the ignition you need to use better than 95 octane fuel and a little more of it!
Advance is opposite crank rotation, retard is with crank rotation.
On my son's stockish Blaster we had detonation with any advance and premium pump gas.
Advance tends to help the low end power on a 2 stroke and hurt top end, if you don't get detonation first.
This generalization can be messed up by whatever timing curve is built into the CDI box,
but was true of the older fixed ignitions on earlier machines.
Try it, but listen for rattle (detonation) and be honest with yourself about power gains.
Detonation can make you a piston as pictured in a few seconds if you don't recognize it.
If ever I do a timing mod I always up the main jet by a least 1 or two sizes and do a plug chop.
i am curious about you guys having problems with 4* timing. are these stock ported and stock squish engines? i remember we had 4* on stock port, stock squish, piped, jetted, bolt on's, ect. and never had the slightest ping on the mid grade gas station gas.. 91 or 92 octane. got a bit more grunt outta them bottom to mid, as stated. but never a bit of detonation. this is good info. that could save someone a topend!
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Ya Tater, this was on my motor as listed in my sig.
Conditions were VERY harsh this day though. was a 60km enduro, and very hot around 35*c (95*F) but were the detonation started was along the Kei river valley were there was no wind and it was around 40*c (104*F) in the middle of the day.
Terrain was a sandy river bank which was very loose and i couldnt get out of 4th, 3rd, 4th, 3rd winding its guts out. It sounded like Rice Krispies in my engine...snap crackle pop and I stopped immidiately to chill it out I made it through the valley but then had to climb a 200m mountain where you have to pin it in 2nd flat up the track with water drainage speed bumps. I stopped half way to cool it and I made it to the top. it finally went along a flat road where i was keeping it low RPM but it couldnt hold it.
Jetting was a 162, 58 pilot and a banshee needle richest clip on a 30mm OKO.
I wont run the advance again, it doesnt seem to act kindly with my mods. it gives power but its not worth said picture
Conditions were VERY harsh this day though. was a 60km enduro, and very hot around 35*c (95*F) but were the detonation started was along the Kei river valley were there was no wind and it was around 40*c (104*F) in the middle of the day.
Terrain was a sandy river bank which was very loose and i couldnt get out of 4th, 3rd, 4th, 3rd winding its guts out. It sounded like Rice Krispies in my engine...snap crackle pop and I stopped immidiately to chill it out I made it through the valley but then had to climb a 200m mountain where you have to pin it in 2nd flat up the track with water drainage speed bumps. I stopped half way to cool it and I made it to the top. it finally went along a flat road where i was keeping it low RPM but it couldnt hold it.
Jetting was a 162, 58 pilot and a banshee needle richest clip on a 30mm OKO.
I wont run the advance again, it doesnt seem to act kindly with my mods. it gives power but its not worth said picture
great info thanks for taking the time to share that. do you feel you could have jetted a size or 2 bigger on the main and it would still have ran and reved out good?
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Well, if you'v had a watchful eye you may have noticed i have been struggling with my jetting on this OKO for months. I have finally settled on a 165, 55, banshee needle mid clip after some plug chops, an entire selection of Keihin jets, a few extra needles, 48583 carb removals and installs, 46000 carb cleans, 50 leak tests bucket loads of patience and test drives and this one piston. i seem to have eventually quenched the thirst of this thing.
I was battling with a big mid range bog that ONLY the banshee needle fixes.
So, my jetting wasnt correct but it wasnt far off what im running now. if I stick in the 168, it feels flat and doesnt rev out so its not like I was super lean.
I would have liked to swap in a bigger jet on the trail when this was happening but just that day i forgot my kit in the truck
I think it would have helped...just a 168? i mean really?
The motor was airtight
I was battling with a big mid range bog that ONLY the banshee needle fixes.
So, my jetting wasnt correct but it wasnt far off what im running now. if I stick in the 168, it feels flat and doesnt rev out so its not like I was super lean.
I would have liked to swap in a bigger jet on the trail when this was happening but just that day i forgot my kit in the truck
I think it would have helped...just a 168? i mean really?The motor was airtight
Well, if you'v had a watchful eye you may have noticed i have been struggling with my jetting on this OKO for months. I have finally settled on a 165, 55, banshee needle mid clip after some plug chops, an entire selection of Keihin jets, a few extra needles, 48583 carb removals and installs, 46000 carb cleans, 50 leak tests bucket loads of patience and test drives and this one piston. i seem to have eventually quenched the thirst of this thing.
I was battling with a big mid range bog that ONLY the banshee needle fixes.
So, my jetting wasnt correct but it wasnt far off what im running now. if I stick in the 168, it feels flat and doesnt rev out so its not like I was super lean.
I would have liked to swap in a bigger jet on the trail when this was happening but just that day i forgot my kit in the truck
The motor was airtight
its really impossible to say if a 165 or 168 would have saved it IMO.
i do know that little bit of extra fuel does help keep temps down a good bit. there was another guy just saying that also. i do not run anything on less than 100 octane and 5*+ timing, im just trying to inform guys that are trying a timing advance of all the possible bad things that could come about, like your mini disaster.
My son might have better details than I, but as I recall the only mods we had at the time were an FMF pipe and silencer. Luckily he noticed the noise, a bit of rattle and reduction in power about 10 seconds into a hard run in higher gears or up a hill. He worked with jetting to try to get rid of it because it did give him a low end boost and more responsiveness, but no luck, even running the jet up into the 200s. This particular engine may be close on chamber volume because decreasing quench had the same effect. The fuel in all cases was premium pump gas, generally Ipone oil at 40:1, 50-200 feet elevation, typically 30-75F temps.
i guess another option for some guys would be to notch the stator plate and just give it 2*. i feel that would be plenty safe for high grade pump gas.
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Well its my understanding that you pull the flywheel off with a flywheel puller and take out the old key, put in the new one, replace the flywheel and tighten the nut. bam.
Tator and Best, yes, fuel does have a cooling effect but you right it was pretty bad and im not sure simply adding more fuel would have fixed it on the day. I would have needed to turn the timing back to stock. Unfortunately, in the middle of nowhere, all I had was a plug spanner and some other tools but its kind of hard to carry a flywheel holder and puller onboard
In theory, cutting the head to reduce squish essentially "advances" your timing automatically...think about it. what you are doing is lowering the position of the spark plug in relation to TDC, so just before TDC when the spark goes (10*?) the spark initiates combustion which has less distance to travel between the plug and the top of the piston than on a stock motor.
Think of it like this: If 2 guys jump of a rock at different heights at the same time, one at 2m and one at 6m, who will hit the water first? the lower one obviously...his arrival at impact would have been advanced just because he was lower down!
now advancing the timing +4 ontop of a cut head is like the guy at 2m jumping 4 seconds before the guy at 6m. and maybe its too early and he land on a passing canoe...
so in my mind, i rather shy away from such scenarios and rather let the head do the work for me.
On the other hand, if your head and deck heights are STOCK. DO IT!
