Another Spark Problem

[PsYc0TiC]

I have a 2001 (according to the vin) blaster that won't fire. The people I bought it from swore that the stator was the problem. I bought a new stator on ebay.

Here is the catch. The stator I got from ebay said it fit 1990-2006 and it has 5 wires (the extra one is white/green)

My blaster only has 4 wires in the harness. All color codes are just as everyone describes and the seller says to ground the white/green wire on the older 4-wire models.

That is all well and good except that this new stator doesn't ohm out as it should. The description goes:

Pickup coil: wht/red to black (16-24 ohms)
Source coil: grn/wht to blk/red (192-288 ohms)

but when I do it I don't get anything from white/red to black but I do from white/red to yellow/red
grn/wht to blk/red gives me a proper reading

Needless to say I don't get a spark when this is hooked up by color code and I suspect there may be an improperly assembled unit.

I unplugged the control unit first as instructed... still no spark.

I also check the coil from orange lead to ground and I get continuity but I get no ohms and I get nothing from orange lead to the end of the spark plug wire which should mean a bad coil right?

I have followed the troubleshooting in the manual but there is one section I don't understand... regarding the spark plug cap on the spark plug wire... this is not a snap on connector... it is crimped onto the spark plug wire....change/test that? I don't understand. By the illustrations I should be able to pop that off and test it but it is made onto the end of the wire.

I tested the main switch and for some wierd reason it was backwards... I got continuity when it was in the "off" position.

I tested the run/kill switch and it got no continuity so I cut and spliced that wire together (only really need one kill and the main will do it)

Please help

 

[Awk08]

are you using the 03+ troubleshooting ???...........

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/ignition-troubleshooting-03-a-46160/

 

[slickerthanyou]

I have a 2001 (according to the vin) blaster that won't fire. The people I bought it from swore that the stator was the problem. I bought a new stator on ebay.

Here is the catch. The stator I got from ebay said it fit 1990-2006 and it has 5 wires (the extra one is white/green)

My blaster only has 4 wires in the harness. All color codes are just as everyone describes and the seller says to ground the white/green wire on the older 4-wire models.

That is all well and good except that this new stator doesn't ohm out as it should. The description goes:

but when I do it I don't get anything from white/red to black but I do from white/red to yellow/red
grn/wht to blk/red gives me a proper reading

Needless to say I don't get a spark when this is hooked up by color code and I suspect there may be an improperly assembled unit.

I also check the coil from orange lead to ground and I get continuity but I get no ohms and I get nothing from orange lead to the end of the spark plug wire which should mean a bad coil right?

I have followed the troubleshooting in the manual but there is one section I don't understand... regarding the spark plug cap on the spark plug wire... this is not a snap on connector... it is crimped onto the spark plug wire....change/test that? I don't understand. By the illustrations I should be able to pop that off and test it but it is made onto the end of the wire. Please help

Yes the green/wht strip wire gets grounded. As awk stated- above when checking a 5 wire stator u have to use the 03 + troubleshooting and if you do not get anything from the white/red to black Make sure you are geetting a good connection, that tells me the pick up coil is bad easy, cheap fix if you can solder and it will not fire the spark correctly.

The spark plug boot is screwed on to the wire! Hold tight and unscrew it!

 

[PsYc0TiC]

I have the vender sending me a new stator since the one I got from them doesn't test right.

I know the coil is bad... I get continuity between the orange wire tab and ground but no resistance. I also know the plug cap is bad as I unscrewed it and I get no continuity through that either.

On the note of the kill switch... is the run/kill switch on the left handle a normally open circuit and pushing it to off grounds the spark circuit? or is it a normally closed and pushing it to off opens the circuit?

I really won't know much more until I get the new coil in so I can test to see if I get spark.

I do also however seem to have only 24 psi of compression and the seller said he just put a fresh .20 over top end in. I took off the carb and the dolt used red RTV on the reed plate gaskets. The reeds look and feel okay but I don't know what bad ones are like but I did find some scary pieces of metal behind the reed cage.

Hey... if all the case bolts are really loose will it not build much compression?

 

[PsYc0TiC]

New stator came in.... this one ohm's out good. Installed it and a new coil.

I tested the old coil per the troubleshooting in the manual and I would get continuity between the contact and ground but no resistance. I wouldn't get any continuity between the contact and the plug wire. I also got no continuity through the plug cap so I bought the new coil.... same tests! all the same results from a new coil. Installed it anyway. I changed the spark plug since the one that was in it looked like it had been extensively cleaned and wasn't exactly the correct number.

I am making reed cage gaskets now since the dolt used the red RTV on the old ones and I am going to try to crank it up but I have a feeling I am not getting spark still.

 

[PsYc0TiC]

just as I figured... still no spark. The only thing I haven't replaced or fixed is the flywheel. what are the chances of that being bad and what are the things to look for?

 

[slickerthanyou]

New stator came in.... this one ohm's out good. Installed it and a new coil.

I tested the old coil per the troubleshooting in the manual and I would get continuity between the contact and ground but no resistance. I wouldn't get any continuity between the contact and the plug wire. I also got no continuity through the plug cap so I bought the new coil.... same tests! all the same results from a new coil. Installed it anyway. I changed the spark plug since the one that was in it looked like it had been extensively cleaned and wasn't exactly the correct number.

I am making reed cage gaskets now since the dolt used the red RTV on the old ones and I am going to try to crank it up but I have a feeling I am not getting spark still.

just as I figured... still no spark. The only thing I haven't replaced or fixed is the flywheel. what are the chances of that being bad and what are the things to look for?

Few things I can think of, you must remove the plug boot to test coil properly. And if you get no resistance on either side of the coil and your testing it properly, You have a bad new coil, I stopped using stock coils as i had a rash of bad ones and didn't want to be stuck on the trails 10 miles deep.

Buy a coil from Ricksmotorsports.com they are about $35 have a warranty, and are an upgrade to stock. Some guys haven't ever had a coil issue but after buying multiple ones I saved and got the RMS one, worked great- then upgraded to Nology setup. I keep the RMS one as a spare for troubleshooting!

Reading back through this post it sounds like you need to go over every bolt on that motor and Retest the compression, and airleak test that motor before you go any further. Once the compression is good and air tight then work on the electrical. Even if you get the electric worked out 24psi compression is gonna start no matter what you do!

I've only heard of one flywheel being bad and it was because the motor locked up bent the crank and it tore up the magnets.

 

[PsYc0TiC]

Few things I can think of, you must remove the plug boot to test coil properly. And if you get no resistance on either side of the coil and your testing it properly, You have a bad new coil

I removed the plug cap boot on the old one and I got no continuity through it nor the coil. I did the same on the new one and I got the same results

Reading back through this post it sounds like you need to go over every bolt on that motor and Retest the compression, and airleak test that motor before you go any further. Once the compression is good and air tight then work on the electrical. Even if you get the electric worked out 24psi compression is gonna start no matter what you do!

I understand about that... I have just been trying to get a spark and then move on... I am trying not to have a short attention span and tackle only a couple problems at a time.

Thank you for the tip on where to get the coil except that URL seems to have been abandoned. I think I am going to seek professional help on this one as I am not a motorcycle mechanic.

 

[slickerthanyou]

I removed the plug cap boot on the old one and I got no continuity through it nor the coil. I did the same on the new one and I got the same results



I understand about that... I have just been trying to get a spark and then move on... I am trying not to have a short attention span and tackle only a couple problems at a time.

Thank you for the tip on where to get the coil except that URL seems to have been abandoned. I think I am going to seek professional help on this one as I am not a motorcycle mechanic.

Aftermarket Motorsport Parts & Kits Superstore - Charging, Starting, Ignition sorry that was an old link! If you got same result with a new part and you are sure the voltmeter is good and you have good contacts, the new part is bad! If ya live near Pittsburgh, PA I can get it going for ya I'm sure!

 

[slickerthanyou]

I removed the plug cap boot on the old one and I got no continuity through it nor the coil. I did the same on the new one and I got the same results



I understand about that... I have just been trying to get a spark and then move on... I am trying not to have a short attention span and tackle only a couple problems at a time.

Thank you for the tip on where to get the coil except that URL seems to have been abandoned. I think I am going to seek professional help on this one as I am not a motorcycle mechanic.

Aftermarket Motorsport Parts & Kits Superstore - Charging, Starting, Ignition sorry that was an old link! If you got same result with a new part and you are sure the voltmeter is good and you have good contacts, the new part is bad! If ya live near Pittsburgh, PA I can get it going for ya I'm sure! I may have a good stock coil and boot laying around, I will check it with meter. It's yours for shipping!

 

[PsYc0TiC]

I waved the white flag on this one and took it to a professional. I will let you know what HE finds

 

[PsYc0TiC]

well the spark problem was minor in comparison to the blown motor. Looks as if I got screwed by the scumbags saying it had a fresh top end. The piston came apart due to running it with not enough 2-cycle oil... a piece fell down and cracked the case... ran low on oil and burnt up the crankshaft.

sigh.... $700 bucks later I am $1500 into this darn thing and I could have bought something way better for that amount.