'Another' Blaster died and will not start thread

[Camprnik]

Hey all,

I have a 01 blaster, and the only mod on it is a toomey pipe (with the larger jets in the carb). I bought it from a friend this year and havent done much to it other than clean the air filter a couple times. It still has TORS and is running the stock oil injection (fresh oil every trip).

The thing ran great, 2-3 kicks to start when cold. Went out on a trip and for the first day and a half it had no problems. Then it bogged down like it ran out of gas and wouldn't start. I checked thru the fuel system and gas was flowing direct to the carb bowl. Cleaned out the jets and everything. Had spark when I grounded the plug. After a couple hours of fiddling (cleaning fuel system and checking the reeds) the thing started back firing when kicking and the suddenly started again and ran great! for about another hour...then it died like it ran out of gas again. Tried everything I had done before but it wouldn't even back fire.

Being relatively new to the bike (have used it 3 times included the weekend it died) I am now at a loss were to start. I am putting together a leak down tester to see if that is the issue and am snagging a compression tester tonight as well. I am just wondering if it could be one of those issues (air leak or compression) if I got it to run again after the first time it died? Could the TORS system be going out on me? Electrical?

Any help/tips directions are appreciated!!!

 

[Larry's Shee]

Well it's easy to bypass it on an 01, unplug the brain. 3wire plug under hood. Then check for spark. We'll go from there.

 

[Camprnik]

Removed the TORS per these instructions http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors-88-02-models.655/

Tried kicking over. There is a spark from the plug when grounded against the block, but its hard to tell how strong. Disassembled and cleaned the carb out. Also took apart the gas cap and cleaned out what looked like metal shavings from where the two ball bearings are. Fresh gas, and a 20 mins of kicking later...nothing. I did notice that when you kick with 0 throttle, there seems to be little to no sound in the system. When you go wide open, it seems to huff every 3-5 kicks and occasionally there is a smell of gas.

Leak down test on it held pressure at 8 psi for like 15 mins.

Took the cover off the flywheel and it seems to be fine. I need a puller to check the key right?

What else should I try/look for?

 

[jbuckster07]

Removed the TORS per these instructions http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors-88-02-models.655/

Tried kicking over. There is a spark from the plug when grounded against the block, but its hard to tell how strong. Disassembled and cleaned the carb out. Also took apart the gas cap and cleaned out what looked like metal shavings from where the two ball bearings are. Fresh gas, and a 20 mins of kicking later...nothing. I did notice that when you kick with 0 throttle, there seems to be little to no sound in the system. When you go wide open, it seems to huff every 3-5 kicks and occasionally there is a smell of gas.

Leak down test on it held pressure at 8 psi for like 15 mins.

Took the cover off the flywheel and it seems to be fine. I need a puller to check the key right?

What else should I try/look for?

you can just look down the rod, should be able to see if the keyway is lined up on the shaft and on the flywheel

 

[bummer981]

A broken reed petal will make it impossible to start.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Starting to sound electrical. Lots of things to do before worrying about buying parts.
Clean coil mount and ground. Ohm coil and plug boot separately. Trim wire 1/4" install with dielectric grease. Bypass switches for testing. Clean, grease all connections, make sure they are tight.
Ohm coil, cap and stator.

Actually starting to sound like an electrical unit is changing value as it gets hot. After you have done all above, try a little test.
IF you have spark, use a hair dryer and heat stator, coil, CDI separately, allow each to cool between tests. DON'T overheat them.
Ohm units before and at max temp, see if you get weird readings or no resistance. Obviously can't ohm CDI.
Coil and stator WILL increase resistance with heat.

 

[Camprnik]

well...I ran a compression test. 30 PSI. Took the top of and most of the piston is missing on one edge down to the first ring. Would this have been because I leaned it out or oil issue? I am still running the stock oil pump. Is there a good link for removing this system and just running mixed?

Now googling machine shops to do a hone job. Not too marked up in the cylinder though. Whats a good replacement piston set up (or brands)?

 

[Larry's Shee]

STOP !!​

Before you buy a piston the bore needs to be checked for out of round and taper. "Not to marked up "? That doesn't sound very good. Most shops charge as much or almost as much to hone as to bore and hone.

 

[Markblaster]

Removing oil injector to do premix.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-oil-injection-without-a-block-off-kit.3272/

and

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-install-oil-injection-block-off-kit.681/