After a head rechamber...
- Thread starter blasDa
- Start date
It's at work in the lathe. I'm gonna cut it tmrw. I'll get some pics and try to figure out how to upload them here. I'm not so "computer savy". Lol.
BTW. It's your videos on YouTube I've been studying and will be copying. Thanks for that!
Awesome! I hope the videos have helped you out. Get the CC's of the combustion chamber around 20 CC's.
Go for the "Hemi" shape. Polish it up nice! You will be amazed how little carbon there will be on the combustion chamber after 30 hours of use with good oil. You WILL notice a power increase! Now your going to have to port that cylinder too! Porting the cylinder will double your power to around 30HP + with good jetting and have reliability like a stock engine!
Freaking AWESOME! GREAT JOB!!! That's going to work GREAT! Now you have to CC it to to see what the volume of the combustion chamber is.
Tip: A narrower squish band promotes high RPM pull. Its noticeable.
What degree is the squish band... 11 degrees?
NOW A RIDE REPORT IS IN ORDER!
Then ...PORTING
Once again...AWESOME Job! Something to be proud of!
One other thing... if you want to make changes to what you've already done, you can do it without worries, because there is PLENTY of meat in that head to cut some more!
Tip: A narrower squish band promotes high RPM pull. Its noticeable.
What degree is the squish band... 11 degrees?
NOW A RIDE REPORT IS IN ORDER!
Then ...PORTING
Once again...AWESOME Job! Something to be proud of!
One other thing... if you want to make changes to what you've already done, you can do it without worries, because there is PLENTY of meat in that head to cut some more!
Here's the video's... I was also experimenting with step cutting the head for the gasket to close up the squish distance. You don't need to do this. i was doing it to find the "sweet spot" for squish distance.
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Thanks guys! Especially you joeak47! Those vid's really helped a lot. I know machining, but nothing about engines, but I'm learning.
In your vid you say 11 or 12 degrees, so I split the difference and went 11 1/2. It measures 18 cc's.
Unfortunately, a ride report isn't gonna happen for a while. It's an ongoing winter project. It was put away dirty in a barn for years and needs a lot of work. I grabbed it for $350. As something to do this winter.
Also, I've never ridden a blaster before, so have nothing to compare it to.
I will be getting a template and doing a port and polish.
I also found a few goodies online. Going to pick them up tmrw. A Paul Turner pipe with Fmf silencer, elka's for the front, a stock carb, spare cylinder, tie rods with ends, & heel guard.
In your vid you say 11 or 12 degrees, so I split the difference and went 11 1/2. It measures 18 cc's.
Unfortunately, a ride report isn't gonna happen for a while. It's an ongoing winter project. It was put away dirty in a barn for years and needs a lot of work. I grabbed it for $350. As something to do this winter.
Also, I've never ridden a blaster before, so have nothing to compare it to.
I will be getting a template and doing a port and polish.
I also found a few goodies online. Going to pick them up tmrw. A Paul Turner pipe with Fmf silencer, elka's for the front, a stock carb, spare cylinder, tie rods with ends, & heel guard.
Ya and with the pipe you're putting on there you're gonna need a larger Jet too. I don't know the specifics and someone here should be able to get you close for your plug chops but you're gonna be in the 300s for a main jet.
Thanks. It wasn't my question, but it was a good one. I was gonna wait until I had all the mods done, so I could list them all before inquiring about which jets to start with.
It was more of a curiosity question. You wouldn't notice the difference. $350 for the blaster is really good if its in decent shape. Make sure to get the porting templates from Ken! These are professionally manufactured and WORK!
I myself have many different templates and can say that the ones that Ken sells are the ones you want! Porting with Ken's templates, and that awesome head re-chamber you just did is going to work AWESOME when its jetted PROPERLY, and the squish distance is correct (about 1mm [.040]). You will need to run without the air box lid, add extra holes to the air box, or cut off the bottom part of the air box which is what I did, but I live in the desert and don't encounter mud very much. The funny part about doing it my way, is that you still put the lid on the air box (obviously), BUT... put that goofy air nozzle/air horn on the air box lid too. You should see the look on peoples faces when you smoke they're atv and take the seat off, and they see a stock "looking" set up. Its hilarious! I can try posting a picture if you would like.
I almost forgot...
Here's where you can get Ken's porting templates \/ \/ \/
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/portingtemplates.html
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