just found these on my puter and wanted to share. these are great guides for that moment when your brain goes blank
service manuals
Suspension:
BASIC RULES OF SUSPENSION TUNING
A primary issue with springs, front and rear, is to simply spring the ends so that when you push down on the footpegs (where most of your weight is when you aggressively corner).
Both ends of the bike NEED to go up and down exactly evenly, both in travel and rate. That's without damping!
General order:
Select a rear spring that will just bottom out over your harshest bump that you are riding on with "normal" sag. Soften it up till it just bottoms out, then tighten preload 1/4. Check the sag and see if it's in general range of 35mm to 20mm.
That's with no compression damping.
Select front fork springs that allow the front end and the rear end to travel equally and evenly when you bounce on the footpegs (helps to have someone hold the bike upright). That's after you have set the rear spring as in the above step.
That's with no compression damping.
Rear rebound: Use just barely enough to prevent wallowing in high speed sweepers.
Front rebound: Use just enough rebound to keep the front end from wallowing and drifting wide when exiting low speed corners at full throttle.
Compression damping: The goal is to use as little as possible. Use the proper, perhaps heavier than stock spring to do the major work during non-braking mode riding.
Use compression damping to trim if necessary and only if required.
Excessive dive under braking: Use increased oil level to firm the front end under hard braking. 5mm is a significant change in modern forks.
Goals are to always use the softest rear spring that works within "sag" range limit.
Use just enough rebound damping to control the springs.
Use as little compression damping as possible and only when required. Not everybody has a supply of alternate fork and shock springs, so you will probably have to improvise and use a bit of extra preload or a bit more compression damping to compensate for too soft of a spring.
All in all, there is nothing like heeling a bike over in a 120mph sweeper with a sharp edged bump in the middle of it and knowing that you can back of just a bit over the bump, get bounced in the air and calmly land heeled over, in control, straight and unperturbed and remain at highest possible speed with no fuss or muss.
That just doesn't happen if the springs aren't perfectly matched!
Cheers!
Chassis & Engine Polishing FAQ
It's easy to make that engine shine brighter than ever.
BY JOE MINTON
Pure aluminum is virtually inert; it corrodes very reluctantly. It is also very soft and weak, a poor material out of which to make motorcycle parts. But when alloyed with other metals, aluminum can be stronger than iron or mild steel. However, the same materials and chemical reactions that make aluminum strong also leave the resulting alloy very susceptible to corrosion. Motorcycle parts made of the most common and useful aluminum alloys swiftly resemble old TV antennas if they are not protected from atmospheric and chemical attack.
Japanese manufacturers have received some unfair criticism about the quality of their alloy parts. The aluminum alloys they use for the majority of engine and chassis parts corrode more rapidly and thoroughly than traditional alloys. You can buy an old Harley, Triumph or any other British bike and be confident that any aluminum corrosion can be removed and a superlative polish restored. Modern Japanese, and now Harley-Davidson, motorcycle alloy castings can corrode so badly they cannot be restored to their original luster. But while the older materials may resist corrosion more successfully, they are not as good at their basic task, strength, as the newer ones.
Yes, they are the same part. Before, the bike looked as if it had one wheel in the shredder, mostly due to its cases. Polish, paint and cleanup made the bike worth being seen on.
Gone is the old polish of a Triumph clutch cover or of the rocker boxes of a Shovelhead. Now we get less-expensive machine-polished cases covered with a clear plastic paint. Without the clear coating, today's polished cases wouldn't make it to the dealer without at least minor corrosion. As tough as these clear paints are, they do deteriorate with time, exposure to the sun and chemical attack. When they do, the owner can have an ugly mess to clean up.
PREVENTION
Before we start to deal with correcting the consequences of case corrosion, let's take a lobk at what you can do to prevent the deterioration from occurring.
The tough clear coat the manufacturers apply to the polished cases of their bikes can be damaged in three main ways: exposure to the sun's light, chemicals and heat. If you intend to have any fun at all, you will put your bike in the sun and get its cases hot. If you live in Los Angeles or near the beach you will expose it to chemical attack. However, there is hope.
The easiest protection is to wash and wax the bike regularly. Washing removes chemicals such as salt that attack all the painted surfaces. The sun's energetic and harmful ultraviolet rays can be attenuated by generous coats of wax. Good old hard waxes such as Classic Car Wax and Slipstream are excellent examples. Wax also keeps the majority of the harsh chemicals, such as ocean salt, from reaching the fragile clear coat over the even more delicate surface of your bike's polished alloy cases. Just don't polish too much; you might rub right through the plastic coating in time.
I have seen numerous, rather new engines with yellowed clear coatings. Thiase engines had been run very hard and had other signs indicating they had gotten unusually hot. Low oil temperatures and moderate loads help keep the clear coating on engine case parts like new.
REFINISHING
The restoration of polished and coated aluminum parts does not require special skills. Like many other mechanical tasks, this one is a matter of knowledge and confidence.
The information in this article is the result of much experience, both my own and that of helpful and interested enthusiasts. While the products and procedures discussed have proven themselves, they are not the only materials or methods that will do. The goal here is to share with you the knowledge that. a corroded case (or bike) is not lost and that you can restore it to its former sparkling condition.
Step 1: If you have the tools, confidence and a shop manual, I recommend that you work,with parts off the bike. Working with the pieces on the bench makes things go a bit easier. However, you can do a perfectly satisfactory job without touching a screw. By the way, you should remove the old paint outside in your driveway near a garden hose.
Commercial paint removers take off the remnants of the old clear coating. The OEM clear coat is tough, and you should buy a remover that attacks epoxy and modern automotive paints. I bought the can you see here at my local Standard Brands paint store. You should be able to get a powerful remover at any large hardware store; most will have several brands and the knowledge of which one is best for this application.
Be cautious: Paint remover can harm your skin and sight. Be sure to wear eye protection, rubber gloves and a long-sleeved shirt when you use paint remover - no kidding.
Clean the oil or grease off the part from which you are going to remove the paint. A rag and some solvent does nicely. Mask off any painted parts you wish to protect from the paint remover. Take care not to get the remover on any paint you want to retain.
With a one- or two-inch paintbrush, apply the paint remover, using a dabbing motion to get the remover into the crevices and to reduce the risk of slinging it all around your driveway. If you got a really powerful remover, the clear coating will immediately begin to bubble and lift from the surface of the metal. After a few minutes the remover will be spent, and you can wash it off with water and a stiff brush. There will probably be some spots of paint left in places; another application or two takes care of that.
Step 2: If the casting from which you have just removed the paint is extensively corroded, you will need more than Simichrome and a stout heart to straighten it out. A seriously corroded case can be wet-sanded with 400 or 600 wet-or-dry sandpaper and soapy water. However, before you decide to do this, you should make an attempt to polish the worst spot. You might be surprised at how bad the corrosion isn't.
Wet-sanding is very effective and can be successful - if you heed a couple of cautions. First, proceed slowly; don't try to use the sandpaper like a shovel. Move the paper with a circular motion and keep it wet with a water-and-soap solution. (The soap helps keep the paper from loading up.) Second, if the casting has become lumpy from the corrosion process, back the sandpaper with a wooden or hard-rubber block. If you don't do this, the finish will be wavy. Finally, do not let the sandpaper load up. If it becomes clogged, it leaves scratches that are too deep to polish out later.
Step 3: Modern mass-produced motorcycle parts are not polished; they are sanded with very fine sandpaper. You can beat the sheen of the original finish on the parts you restore.
There are many polishes on the market and many serve well. Those shown here-Mother's and Simichrome-as well as Blue Magic are my favorites. Mother's initially cuts very fast and then polishes with less effort than most others. Blue Magic can give an incredible mirrorlike surface with hand polishing. Be wary of any polish you have not tested; some have lumps in them that can deeply scratch the surface.
Heat is an essential part of polishing. Unless the aluminum becomes hot from the friction of rubbing it with a cloth loaded with polishing compound, it will never get really bright. When you apply. Mother's Mag Polish, Simichrome or Blue Magic to a very slightly damp cloth, do so sparingly. These and other similar polishing compounds have water in them, and most of that water must disappear before serious polishing takes place.
When you apply polish to the surface and start to rub it in (circular motions, please), the frictional heat evaporates the water. During this time the grains of abrasive are leveling the surface by removing the high spots. As the water disappears there is a dramatic rise in friction and temperature between the cloth and the surface being polished; you can feel this when it happens. That is the time to really lay on the effort. When heat and friction build, polishing starts. If you make the common mistake of adding polishing compound each time the last load begins to dry out and get hot, you will continue to grind away at the surface and never achieve a true polish.
You may want to take advantage of your drill motor and polish your bike's parts with a polishing wheel or disc. That's fine, but it is very easy to round corners and dig ditches in the surface this way, so I urge you to practice on some hard-to-see parts before you take on a clutch cover. I have used drill motors for polishing and prefer one of the woollike buffing discs instead of the traditional cloth wheel. The buffing disc is gentler and spreads the load over a greater area at any one time, making it more difficult to dig ditches in the finish.
You may find that the corrosion has penetrated into the casting far enough that polishing won't remove it. If that happens, there is little you can do. If the staining is bad, you might consider painting the part with silver case paint. Yamaha sells a silver aerosol paint that is compatible with its excellent clear overcoat. The Yamaha silver-clear combination is attractive and is the next-best finish to the original polish.
Step 4: The parts must be clean if you expect the new clear paint to stick. A freshly polished part has its surface impregnated with polishing compound and oily debris; that stuff is rather tenacious and some care is needed to ensure that it is all gone. Hot soapy water, a cloth and elbow grease seem to be the most successful combination. Use a soap like Formula 409, Fantastik or dissolved dishwasher detergent; these are powerful and won't damage the freshly polished surface. Dry the parts in the sun to get rid of all the water and to warm them slightly before you paint.
Step 5: I have searched many years for a satisfactory aerosol clear paint and have found a couple that are tough and a couple that are clear. The only one I know of that is both is sold by Yamaha as Clear Top Coat (PNT-65000-04-00). Before you go out and get something from the drug store, consider that many of us have tried a number of different paints and prefer this one.
Clear can be difficult to apply simply because it is hard to see as it goes on. If you can arrange a single light so it is reflected in the polished metal surface, you will be able to see the clear as you apply it and can then better control the painting. Also, there are no pigments to help hold it in place, so it tends to run easily. Practice on a part that isn't prominent. It certainly helps if you are shooting on a warm, dry day. The paint can should be somewhere near 70 degrees Fahrenheit and so should the parts.
Apply a very thin coat and let it sit for a couple of minutes. This coat will partially dry and then stick to both the metal and the next, thicker coat you lay on. If you spray with the spray head too close to the surface, the paint tends to bubble and run because it is too thick directly under the blast of the nozzle. I have found that the guys who write the instructions seem to know, and I follow their directions.
After the paint is dry enough that bugs won't stick to it, lay the parts in the sun to dry. If you have no sun, you can use an oven if you are very careful not to let the temperature get above about 200 degrees and the paint has had some time to dry first.
Cleaning up, polishing and repainting are the three basic steps. None of them is difficult; none requires years of experience. The most important part of the job is the belief that you can do it. That belief together with the knowledge gathered by other enthusiasts and presented here give you the tools needed.
Besides the satisfaction of doing something well, you will also have a much better looking bike. A good scrubbing, some touch-up and freshly polished and protected castings can make a scruffy bike into one to admire. Old paint just needs new paint.
CARB INFO
Although meant for the Keihin (non-pumper), the information below can also be helpful for other carburetors.
Jump Links: Air/Fuel Mixture | Idle & Low Speed System | Intermediate System | High Speed System | Float System | Float System Vents | Air Metering Systems | Main Jet Air-Bleed System | Air-Cut Valve | Cold Starting System
The carburetor on your bike should perform suitably with the standard recommended settings under average load, climatic, and barometric conditions. However, to fine tune the engine's power output, the carburetor may require adjustments for specific competition needs. Optional main jets and slow jets are available for your bike. Any engine or air-box modifications or the use of an aftermarket exhaust system may require jetting changes. The function of the carburetor is to atomize fuel and mix it with air in proper proportions to suit engine operating conditions. In operation, the carburetor meters gas into the fast moving air passing through it. The atomized gas (a mist of liquid fuel) is then vaporized (changed from a liquid to a gas) by engine heat and the heat of compression to provide a uniform and efficiently combustible air/fuel mixture.
Air/Fuel Mixture Carburetor Circuits
MJ - Main Jet
JNT - Jet Needle, Tapered Section
JNS - Jet Needle, Straight Section
SJ/PS - Slow Jet & Pilot Screw
In theory, the perfect air/fuel ratio is 14.7 parts of air to one part of gas, by weight. A uniform air/fuel ratio of this proportion allows the mixture to burn completely without leaving an excess of either fuel or air. Rich (excessive fuel) or lean (excessive air) mixtures both result in loss of power. An excessively lean mixture can also cause engine damage. An intentionally rich mixture (from applying the choke lever) is used for starting because a cold engine reduces vaporization. A throttle valve (carburetor slide) controls the amount of air/fuel mixture delivered to the engine, regulating the engine's power output. When the throttle valve opening is increased, engine speed (rpm) also increases and air rushes through the carburetor bore at a greater rate. Unfortunately, the rate of fuel flow through a fixed jet does not increase proportionately with an increase in air speed through a fixed venturi. At high speeds, the air/fuel mixture tends to become richer. For this reason, it is desirable to vary the venturi size and meter the fuel flow to maintain correct air/fuel mixture ratios over a wide range of operating speeds. This is achieved by using compensating jets and air-bleeds (air jets). Each of the carburetor circuits affects the delivery of the air/fuel mixture over a given portion of the throttle valve opening. These circuits overlap as shown on the graph.
Idle & Low Speed System
An adjustable pilot screw controls the idle mixture. The pilot screw is located in the passage between the low speed jet and the idle fuel discharge orifice to control the rate of flow of aerated fuel delivered to the carburetor bore. An adjustable throttle stop screw controls the idle speed by raising or lowering the slide position when the throttle is closed. A replaceable slow jet, located next to the main jet, controls the amount of fuel entering the idle and low speed system.
Intermediate System
Opening the throttle valve (carburetor slide) permits a transition from the low speed system to the intermediate system which meters fuel from the main fuel discharge (needle) jet. A tapered fuel metering rod (jet needle) connected to the throttle slide, extends down into the main (needle) jet. The jet needle position, which is adjustable, maintains the correct air/fuel mixture ratio through most of the carburetor's operating range, just short of fully open throttle. At that point the jet needle is fully raised, and fuel flow will be controlled primarily by the main jet.
High Speed System
Fuel delivery is controlled by the size of the replaceable main (needle) jet and the thickness of the jet needle.
Float System
The float system is designed to maintain a constant and correct level of fuel in the carburetor's float bowl. A float rises or falls with the fuel level in the float bowl. The correct float bowl fuel level is established by the carburetor manufacturer.
Float System Vents
Float system vents are necessary to ensure a smooth flow of fuel through the carburetor. The externally vented float bowl has its vent tubes routed to atmosphere so that atmospheric pressure can maintain pressure on the fuel inside the float bowl. Vent tube routing is critical. Any change in the stock routing of the tubes may pinch the tubes. Improperly routed tubes may also be exposed to low pressure when the bike is in motion, which could change the pressure in the float bowl and alter fuel delivery.
Air Metering Systems
Air under atmospheric pressure is bled, into the carburetor fuel passages to improve fuel atomization, to stabilize fuel height in the jets, and to provide corrections in the air/fuel mixture ratio. Air jets and/or air-bleed adjustment screws control the relative amount of atmospheric air drawn into the fuel systems. This system is factory pre-set and should not be altered.
Main Jet Air-Bleed System
Low venturi pressure, which causes fuel to rise through the main fuel jet, also causes atmospheric air to flow through the air jet. Air and fuel meet and mix together in a perforated (emulsion) tube above the main fuel jet. The aerated fuel released into the venturi is more easily atomized than a dense un-aerated stream of fuel. Aerated fuel also has less tendency to fall back down the jet tube between intake strokes, thus stabilizing fuel height in the jet tube. The same effect can be observed when drinking beverages through a straw. When you remove your mouth from the straw, a frothy beverage tends to remain in the straw, but an un-aerated beverage will fall back down the straw into the glass.
Air-Cut Valve
An air-cut valve is used to prevent popping in the exhaust system during deceleration. The valve enriches the air/fuel mixture during deceleration. A diaphragm in the air cut valve is activated whenever high manifold vacuum is present, such as during deceleration. The movement of the diaphragm causes a partial blockage of the air bleed system in the low speed circuit. This reduces the aeration to the low speed jet which creates a richer mixture. The air-cut valve is factory pre-set and should not be altered. It may have to be replaced eventually, because the rubber diaphragm in the valve may deteriorate over time. If the diaphragm is deteriorating, you may notice leanness or a popping in the exhaust during deceleration.
Cold Starting System
Fuel does not vaporize well in a cold engine. For this reason, the carburetor must deliver a richer mixture. The mixture must not be excessively en-richened, however, or the combustion chamber can become flooded with liquid fuel. Your bike uses a choke valve that en-richens the mixture by obstructing the carburetor bore. When the choke lever is closed (choke lever ON), it reduces the volume of air that can flow through the carburetor bore to fill the vacuum created in the engine cylinder. Atmospheric pressure in the float bowl then forces more fuel into the carburetor bore.
Tech: Main Menu
This is just a for fun! if you think you can do it
Anodizing 101
Based on the number of companies selling, and people looking for, anodizing services for their gun's aluminum bodies and parts, I wanted to provide this info to the paintballing community. I first came across the process in Super Chevy magazine, in an article about anodizing your own parts and brackets, for a custom touch on your hot rod. (* Original article by Bruce Hampson.) Often anodizing is considered and/or presented as a difficult and expensive procedure. As it turns out, it really isn't that hard or that pricey.
Supplies Needed:
The first thing to do is to get the following things together: First on the list is the most expensive item: a 6 to 12 volt battery charger. This item is what might make this too expensive for some paintballers. I (and most other hot rodders) already have one, for my car. If you don-t, then you will need to pick one up. They run from $45.00 to $110.00 depending on model, functions, etc. While it may seem like a lot, it does have other uses. (You could charge a battery, for example.) =) The next item, though not that expensive, will take some effort to find: battery electrolyte, a.k.a. sulfuric acid. This should be available at a battery wholesaler for about $2.00/gal. To make the negative ground, you will need some aluminum ground wire and aluminum-foil. The wire can be found at an electronics store for about $35/spool, and you should have the foil in the kitchen. If you happen to be out of foil, you can pick up some more at the store when you go to buy the last item for this project.
No super-special chemicals or solutions necessary to make the colors; just plain-old fabric dye. (Something like Rit dye, for about $5.00.) Rit offers something like 30-40 different colors, so you have quite a number of choices for what color you want your parts to be. An optional item is nitric acid: about $25.00/2.5 L. (This is used to clean parts prior to anodizing, but there are some cheaper alternatives. See end notes.) This is available at chemical supply stores. Should you not be able to find any, you can try to get on the good side of the high school science teacher. He may help you out since you only need a few ounces.
Safety Precautions:
There are a few precautions I want to go over to help keep you from blowing up the house or trashing the garage. First of all, do not mix or store your anodizing solution in a glass container. Something could happen to make it break, and most households are not equipped to deal with that kind of spill. You also don-t want to knock over the container, so a stable, rubber bucket makes a good choice. You will also need to be certain that the part you want to color will fit in the container without sticking out of the solution, and without touching the negative ground in the bottom of the container. Any acid that you don't use, keep in what it came in, or an old plastic bottle, like a bleach bottle. You can also store your used solution this way for doing more parts later. (Make sure that there is absolutely no bleach left in the bottle. Acid and bleach make chlorine gas. Very bad. Don't breath. Poisonous.) Safety also applies to the nitric acid, but in a different way. It is imperative that you label and keep track of this stuff, as it is a stronger acid than sulfuric, and more dangerous. The breakage/spill problem is not as likely since you won't have that much around. (Unless you bought more than a few ounces from the chem store.) The last note about the acids is to mix properly when adding acid and water. Always pour acid into water, never the other way, and do so slowly, being sure to mix in well. There is a reaction taking place and it releases a lot of energy. During the anodizing process, you will be running electricity through a weak acid solution. This creates hydrogen (just like charging a battery) which is very flammable. This stuff burns at the speed of thought when ignited, so do be careful. (Read as Remember the Hindenburg?) Make certain that there is some way to ventilate the project area, and DO NOT let any sources of ignition near the project area.Other precautions you should take include safety glasses, rubber gloves, and maybe some sort of drop sheet under the area.
Preparations:
One of the most essential things you need to do in order to get even color over the whole part is to be sure that the part is absolutely clean. You want it free of all contaminates, from dirt to the oils in your skin. This is where the nitric acid and some rubber gloves will help. A solution of 1-2 ounces of nitric acid in a gallon of distilled water will allow you to clean the surface in preparation for the anodizing. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly when exposed to air, so the easiest way to keep it clean is to clean it just before you are ready to start working on the piece. (You should rinse the part with distilled water before you put it in the next acid solution.) Other options are carburetor or brakes cleaners, or other similar degreasers. Soap and water will work also, or cleaners like Simple Green. These are cheaper, a nitric acid wash is the best. (You decide, it's your money.)
Make your negative ground with the aluminum wire and foil. Shape the end of the wire into a paddle shape and cover the round part with the foil. What you want to do is create a flat, round shape to sit on the bottom of the bucket, with a lead that comes up out of the bucket. You will clip the battery charger's negative lead to the wire that comes out of the bucket. When you are ready to start, you will want to mix up your immersion solution. In your rubber bucket, combine the sulfuric acid and water to come up with a solution that is about 30% water. (1 part water to 2 parts acid.) Place the paddle in the bucket and attach the negative lead. Then attach the positive lead to the part, making it an anode, and immerse it in the solution. (Remember that the two leads the paddle (cathode), and the part (anode) should not touch.) This is the best time to turn on the charger: once the part begins to fizz, leave it in there for about 10-15 minutes. After about this time the part should no longer conduct electricity. (You can also use an ohmmeter to check conductivity, but this is not needed.) Turn off and disconnect everything, and rinse the part in cold water. Don't use hot water! You'll find out why in the next section.
A couple of notes:
I have read some other procedures that say it is important that the copper lead from the charger does not enter the acid solution. The article says nothing about this, and shows a picture with the lead right in there. It may take some trial and error to find out if this is a problem. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get some scrap aluminum and play with it before you start anodizing your parts. You can check out the above, as well as pick the colors you like best. If you test out some colors, you'll also learn just how long or short you need to work with the color solution.
Color:
So now it doesn't conduct electricity, and is ready for color. It's been rinsed and waits eagerly to change to a new look. Don't wait too long to do the color, due to that oxidizing thing again. You want to mix up a strong solution of dye and water, in a container that can be heated. The solution needs to be at low heat, such as on the stove, so bread and cake pans work well. Again, you need something that will fit the whole part, but it's okay if it touches the bottom this time. I would recommend turning parts every few minutes just to make sure that you get all-over color. Inform your mom or wife that the pan can (and will be) washed out. It is important that the heat be low enough. If the solution gets too hot, you will seal the surface, and it will no longer take any color. (See, told you to rinse it in cold water!) Leave it in the dye until the part is slightly darker than you want it. The next step is to seal the surface of the metal in clean, boiling water. This will leech a bit of color from it, thus the slightly darker color in the previous step.
End Notes:
It is important to realize that the process described above will yield only one color on your part. At this time, I haven't found out how to do any of the splash type of anodizing. (That's okay though, it looks really ugly anyways.) Should anyone happen to figure it out, I suggest you submit it to Warpig so they can put it up for others who like it.
Also, this process is for aluminum. I don't know how, or if, it will work on other metals. (I doubt it.) Anodizing only works well on rock metal like bar or sheet stock, as opposed to castings. If it was forged or machined, it should have the density to take color through this process. I figure this shouldn't be too big a problem with the guns, but just thought I should let you know about it.
Something to consider when looking for a charger, is how many amperes it puts out. Without getting into any mumbo-jumbo, anodizing relies on 10 to 40 amperes per square foot. For small brackets and such, this is no problem. The larger parts in a gun however, may need the higher levels of amperes. The other note about part size, has to do with how long you leave it in the solution. Above it said 10-15 minutes, but that is for a smaller part. The larger parts may not only need higher amperes, but more time as well. I would recommend an ohmmeter, but again, I have one already.
So there you have it. Quick, fairly easy, and not too expensive. If you don't have the charger, then your first anodizing session could cost as much as sending your gun out to be done. But, then you can do it again for much less. Or do your buddies stuff. Or talk them into chipping in on a setup for all of you to use. We all know ways to help make things cheaper.
And the stupid statement required to cover myself... If you try this and something gets messed up, or someone gets hurt, you are on your own. Deal with it, you can't blame it on anyone else.
