98 blaster power loss

Weelys4days

Weelys4days

New Member
Sep 24, 2014
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Ftw texas
Riding my blaster the other day was running excellent, then after I came out if a turn I tried to acclerate and my motor felt like it was extremely sluggish and slow, barely accelerating at all so I putted about 100yards back to the house. It would not kick start after that. I noticed my idle screw fell out ( tors delete) and I had a wide open hole. I happened to have an extra from another carb so I put that in and changed the plug, which was completely black. Kick started and rode fine after that for about 20 more minutes and then got the same symptoms. Replaced the plug again ( black again) but this time had no change. I can push start it w another quad to get it to run, but it doesn't even have enough power to pop a wheelie.it has plenty of gas and oil and nothing else looks irregular or out Of the norm. It's got about 5 hours since the rebuild, and ran great after I jetted it just after the rebuild. Anyone have any ideas on where to start?
 
Have you compression and leak tested it?

Was the engine leak tested after the rebuild? We're the proper heat cycles performed along with re torquing the head and base nuts after the rebuild?
 
anytime something needs to be push starte useualy has low compression,dirty carb,broken reeds ect...
check compression
check reeds
clean pilot jet..take it out and soak it.
what is it premixed at? or oil injected.?.
what type of plug?
 
I did a leak test and compression test when i put it together and after I retorqued jug and head bolts. I ran my break in cycles the way I read on a write up from this site. I haven't tested it since it started doing this just because it did run fine after the first instance of poor running when I changed the plug. Reeds were replaced when I did the top end as well as carb cleaned and jetted, tors delete, new sprockets and chain. I'll do a compression and leak down test tomorrow and post my results. Anyone with any other ideas or anyone that's had a similar issue please chime in. Is it possible something maybe got sucked into that carb hole for the few seconds it was open?
 
When the idle screw fell out, that would create an airleak. If it was run that way long enough, it could have done some damage.

It might pass a leakdown test now, but the damage was probably done when the idle screw was missing.

Do a compression test to see if its running low.
 
Ok I'll try to get out and test it tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed that I won't be rebuilding it again. The thing that keeps me guessing is that it ran perfect when I replaced the idle screw and plug ( ngk br8es)
. I guess I'll just have to see what my future holds...
 
Weelys4days said:
Is it possible something maybe got sucked into that carb hole for the few seconds it was open?
Click to expand...

If it really was only a few seconds, unless you were going through a mud hole or in extremely dusty conditions, not much if any.
Tests as mentioned won't hurt.
Check fuel level before removing carb. Attach clear hose to bottom of float bowl, holding end higher than gasket surface, open drain. With petcock open, fuel level should rise to about even with gasket surface.
Clean carb, set/check float level. Closely inspect float needle valve and seat.
 
Ok thanks, it ran for about 100 yards without the screw and it was in the grass so there wasn't much dust and no mud, but I will check the fuel height when I do the rest of my tests. I appreciate all of the help and input! This forum is bad ass
 
Larry when you do that the carb sits at a pretty decent angle so where on the bowl gasket do you reference front or back of carb I took min off and held it level.
 
Do it with the carb on the bike, the level should stabilise midway along the body!

Float action can also be observed with the engine running, one can see if there is a sticky float problem if the level fluctuates.
 
image.jpg
 
Ok so far I haven't had a chance to borrow the test tools but I've done what I can so far. I checked the fuel level in the carb while on the bike and it was dead even with the area where the bowl meets the carb. I took the carb off and apart and everything is still sparkling clean from when I jetted it, but still just for good measure blew them out with compressed air. Checked the reed cage and reeds, which still look as new as when they went on all screws and bolts secured and tight. I looked at the piston through the intake, and from the spark plug hole, and everything looks in perfect condition just as it was when I put it together. Is it possible I have weak fire from a bad stator or maybe poorly functioning ignition coil? The last plug I pulled out was run for about 10 seconds on a push start (still same results) and when it came out it appears in good condition. When I get the tools I will let you guys know what my test results prove
 
Weelys4days said:
. Is it possible I have weak fire from a bad stator or maybe poorly functioning ignition coil?
Click to expand...

yes, it is very possible you have an electrical problem, and noticing the idle screw missing was just a coincidence, and caused no damage.
have you checked for good blue spark ?
woodruff key aligned in flywheel ?
good ground at coil to bare frame ?
follow the ignition troubleshooting for your model year.......


http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02.46159/

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-03.46160/
 
Ok the verdict is in! One of my jug bolts has completely broken off causing a compression leak... Sad story but I'm considering removing this motor to repair and sell or find another project blaster to put it in later. I'll be replacing with a yamaha 550 motor that I've been waiting to put into something. The motor is complete and ready to run, I'll just have to weld it up and try to squeeze it all in without too much modification. Anybody interested in a motor and lots of parts?
 
Nah it would really only take a short amount of time, and maybe 10 bucks for replacement bolts. I've just always wanted a street bike powered quad. The 550 motor I have is stock 65 hp. So this could turn into a fun project, If I can get it to squeeze in there. Nothing a welder and some time can't make happen so I'll either sell my motor or fix it and put it into another project later down the line.
 
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