$200, 2002 Blaster, need help!

[ipa240]

Hey everyone, I'm new here and I need some advice. I'm familiar with working larger engines, like cars and trucks but am fairly new to smaller ones. This is my first Blaster:

Backstory: found a bike on FB market place advertised for $1000, when I got to the guys house the bike wouldn't start when it was advertised as running. Told them I could give them $200, much too my amazement, they let it go. We did get it too backfire on the first kick but after that it wouldn't do anything.

Got home with my brother started fiddling with it but have been unsuccessful

1. The bike has spark only when the key is in the OFF position not in the ON
2. Drained fuel, put new in. Carb is seeing plenty of fuel
3. When its kicked it sounds extremely flat, like it doing nothing
4. Pulled the Spark Plug and put a new one in

We tried pulling it with my TRX500 and popping the clutch, nothing. The light does come on when its being pulled but it wont run on its own

I also noticed that there is quite a bit of fuel coming out of the rubber lines on the sides/bottom of the carb. Not sure if this is normal or not

Any ideas? No idea where to look next

Dumb question... Is this a 4 or 2 stroke? I know nothing about it

Thanks everyone

 

[Awk08]

blasters are 2 strokes

in no particular order........

check the reeds for cracked, chipped, missing reed petals

backfires are either bad reeds or broken flywheel woodruff key allowing the flywheel to rotate out of timing.

fuel flooding out carb lines means the floats and float needle need attention, set float height and clean float needle seat with toothpaste and q-tip, there are diy threads in the carb section for setting float height and cleaning the needle seat.
replace needle and seat if cleaning doesn't stop the fuel flow when bowl is filled to correct level.
https://www.blasterforum.com/forums/carburetor.138/

it's possible you have the bottom end flooded with fuel, which prevents new fuel/air mixture from entering.
if so, you'll need to pull the pipe off the head, keep ignition off, hold throttle wide open and drag it around for a while to clear the bottom of the raw fuel laying in there.

someone put a chi-wanese key switch on it, either deal with the dyslexia of putting it to off to run, or pick up a used factory keyswitch off ebay.
our keys open the circuit to run, and connect the circuit to kill the ignition,
4 stroke keys close the circuit to run

 

[ipa240]

All of that information is super helpful.

I was bit skeptical when purchasing it because I was unsure of what condition the engine is in. I might check the compression before I dive into it. They originally we're asking $1000 so I'm thinking the problems aren't catastrophic such as engine failure and it kicks fine. I pretty much persuaded them the $200 and they said they didn't have anywhere to keep it any longer.

1. I'm not sure what a reed is? I tried google it but couldn't find a decent picture

I'm fine with the switch I just wish I would have known before I kicked 40 times and realized it wasn't getting spark with it on.

I'll start playing with it tonight and report back. It would be awesome if I could get a $200 250 blaster running though

Thank you

 

[ipa240]

Would the bike still at least start briefly even the float/carb needs adjusted?

 

[Larry's Shee]

WELCOME !!​

A Blaster is a two stroke requiring oil mixed with the gas. IF there isn't an oil tank left rear under the seat you have to pre-mix it with gas @ 32:1.

There could be many reasons to not run. Obviously the switch is a good place to start.
The TORS unit is next to check. Under the hood, left front is the Tors "brain", three wires, unplug it. TORS is a throttle safety switch know to fail and cause all kinds of weird problems.

Being new to you, with problems, I highly recommend a leak down test, where you pressurize the engine checking for air leaking out. If air can leak out, it can be sucked in, causing a lean condition melting the piston.
You can make a tester, member AWK sells them, I use this

https://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-62595.html with slight modification/adaption.

https://www.blasterforum.com/thread...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
PDF /\/\ or get a Clymers repair manual.

Gotta go, more info later.

 

[ipa240]

Thanks for the reply

I have a leak down tester and tried it yesterday when my brother was over. But was unsure whether the piston has to be at TDC (like a car). If so, we did it wrong. It didn't hold pressure and could feel it coming out of the exhaust.

But like I said it wasn't at TDC.... so not sure

 

[Larry's Shee]

You have to block off the exhaust. I use a piece of heavy rubber with holes for the studs and either a plate, exhaust flange, or the stock pipe to hold it. A PVC pipe cap for intake. My tester has a schrader valve. I hold the hose on it and slowly turn the regulator until I have 6-7 lbs.I also turn the compressor regulator down to about 20 psi.

Never paid much attention to where the piston is on either a Blaster or a Banshee. I also go for more than the"suggested" 6-7 minutes. The longer the better in my mind. I've had engines hold 12+ hours.

If it doesn't hold get a spray bottle with soapy water and start spraying everything, including the tester. If yo don't find an external leak youlyo have to check both crank seals. Very slight possibility of the case halves leaking.

Reeds : https://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=37&cat=0&page=
I couldn't find for blaster. Also known as reeds valves. And with any engine, when the valves don't seal, they don't run, or do so poorly. On a 2s the fresh charge gets blown back out the intake.

https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leak-down-test-video.57629/

Leaking gas is not good.