1999 Rebuild, will need your help!
- Thread starter A7xschecter6661
- Start date
Got a part number for those washers?
Here are some pictures I took. All the gears look great and I knew I was going to find a mess at the rear of the engine where the long swing arm bolt goes through because when I pulled it out it was muddy and slimy as could be.
dirty around the main bearing
back of the case letting dirt/water in
messy!
Also, around where the cases meet up there is next to NO sealant. There is a little bit of sealant on the outside of the case here and there, and same thing on the inside. But where the two surfaces meet there is NOTHING. Just shiny metal surface. Is my bogging problem severe air leaks in the casing? I sure hope so!!
So far on my parts list:
balance shaft lock washer
clutch lock washer
koyo main bearings
bottom end gasket kit
yamabond
Good to go?
Here are some pictures I took. All the gears look great and I knew I was going to find a mess at the rear of the engine where the long swing arm bolt goes through because when I pulled it out it was muddy and slimy as could be.
dirty around the main bearing
back of the case letting dirt/water in
messy!
Also, around where the cases meet up there is next to NO sealant. There is a little bit of sealant on the outside of the case here and there, and same thing on the inside. But where the two surfaces meet there is NOTHING. Just shiny metal surface. Is my bogging problem severe air leaks in the casing? I sure hope so!!
So far on my parts list:
balance shaft lock washer
clutch lock washer
koyo main bearings
bottom end gasket kit
yamabond
Good to go?
You'll need the c-clips for the idle gear too. They are one time use as well. Buy a clutch ball too. Once they hit the floor by accident, you'll never find it again!
Get a piece of glass, and some 600 grit sandpaper to lap those cases. Make small figure 8 motions on the paper with the case. I put dry erase marker on the surface of the cases. When it was gone I knew I had a good mating surface.
Throw a few flux brushes on your list too for spreading the case bond too. Blue Locktite, and some PC-03 seal grease For your seals, Print out a torque spec sheet so its all tight and right.
You'll need some way to hold the clutch basket too to torque it right. Maybe buy the tusk tool. Its worth it.
Get a piece of glass, and some 600 grit sandpaper to lap those cases. Make small figure 8 motions on the paper with the case. I put dry erase marker on the surface of the cases. When it was gone I knew I had a good mating surface.
Throw a few flux brushes on your list too for spreading the case bond too. Blue Locktite, and some PC-03 seal grease For your seals, Print out a torque spec sheet so its all tight and right.
You'll need some way to hold the clutch basket too to torque it right. Maybe buy the tusk tool. Its worth it.
I forgot, get some hex head case bolts too if you already don't have them. Those Phillips head ones are less than desirable. Those kits can be had for about $20 + shipping. Well worth it though.
I heated the bearing up with a heat gun (no map gas handy) and quickly cooled the shaft with some good old NY snow. Smacked the crankshaft out of the bearings then heated the casing up with the head gun and poured a cup of water over the bearings and tapped them out with a hammer and big socket.
I am going to order a crank shaft kit with the bottom gaskets so basically everything is new.
I am going to order a crank shaft kit with the bottom gaskets so basically everything is new.
this ebay "cylinder kit" linked above.........
sumthins real fishy with this listing, the amount sold, and the feedback.
besides it being chi-wanese knockoff parts.
If you click on the amount sold (99) you go to a page listing all sold,
i've been an ebayer for quite a few years, and have never seen anything but "adult" products showing as "private listing -- buyers' identities protected"
this means you cannot even see if real ebayers bought those 99 or if he keeps buying his own products just to bump up sales and feedback ?
why would you not show that real ebayers bought your items ?
so I looked deeper, every part he has ever sold shows the same....."private buyer" bullshit
there's a deception hidden in this somehwhere !
If you look at the dates of these sales, it appears he's selling quite a few of these every week since at least last november.
and not one report of them on here ???, the biggest blaster community anywhere, yet not one member we know of has bought, posted, or even asked about this product before ? < i'm not buying that at all !!!!!!!
although he has tons of + feedback, from who knows who....himself ?
I did find one negative.........
'BEWARE' everything about this product is poor quality, don't risk it, no refund.
I sure hope thats not this kit, but like i said....I smell fish
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Eeeek, I was going off of the sales figuring a bunch of people here were buying them.
Anyways I guess I will be the guinea pig!
Anyways I guess I will be the guinea pig!
The only item I am having trouble finding is the 3 new brake cables with the wing nuts at the wheel.
They expect you to reuse them, but one of mine broke because they were so bound up. I would prefer all new cables with new hardware but am not seeing any
They expect you to reuse them, but one of mine broke because they were so bound up. I would prefer all new cables with new hardware but am not seeing any
I went and looked to. Pulled up feedback left and feedback received side by side. They leave feedback after the buyer and remarkably efficiently. In three pages only 1 feed back was left more than 2 minutes after the buyer no matter the time. Seems fishy to me but maybe there's a way to do it automatically?
And these aren't new but here's a full set http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Blas...Parts_Accessories&hash=item25888622c6&vxp=mtr you'll prob have to buy it all separately for an arm n a leg
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all 3 cables new:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-YAMAHA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1c3fd7d2&vxp=mtr
used splitter, split bushings, springs, clips, and wingnuts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Blas...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3d196c93&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-YAMAHA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1c3fd7d2&vxp=mtr
used splitter, split bushings, springs, clips, and wingnuts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Blas...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3d196c93&vxp=mtr
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nice work tbrooks, definately sumthin fishy.
seller feedback should be left immedietly following payment, not upon buyer feedback.
he's doing this himself, guaranteed.
I messaged him on ebay this morning asking counrty of origin and about the deceptive "private buyers"
here's his reply:
Thank you for your message. This is made in our overseas warehouse.
- partace
I think there is a way to automatically leave feedback for certain places. You know, the ones with a ton of feedback and they leave the same fancy feedback on everyone's page?
I might be able to salvage my wing nut for now, I just broke part of the ears off. Sure I won't be able to adjust it without a tool but how often do you need to adjust them. I bought that 3 pack of cables you linked above.
I ordered everything I need to get this back together. Did a complete tear down, cleaned up where the cases meet. Cleaned everything out and played with the transmission to see how it works. So when I get my bottom rebuild kit I can heat the cases, freeze the bearings and drop them in.
I planned on painting all the plastics and frame etc. But for now I am just going to respray any rub spots on the frame silver and put it all back together. Later down the road I can always take the plastics off and make it pretty. For now I just want to make sure it runs and works good and make sure I got rid of the bogging problem which none of us will know is caused by because I am doing everything. Could have been air leaks, that's getting fixed with all new seals, gaskets and yamabond. Could have been the piston getting caught in the cylinder so it wasn't operating smoothly. Could be carb rebuild but I doubt it as I have cleaned it many times.
So here is what I bought so far.
For Top End:
Complete top end with piston, rings, gaskets, spark plug
Exhaust Gasket
For Bottom End:
Wiseco Crank kit, with all new seals, gaskets and bearings
Yamabond
For Driveability:
Carb rebuild kit
New chain with new sprockets front and rear
3 new brake cables because the cable housing was splitting and binding up
Brake shoes, might as well while I have the cables off and wheels off.
Ignition coil (just in case the bogging is due to coil- doubt it)
Hopefully she is all good to go after this!
I might be able to salvage my wing nut for now, I just broke part of the ears off. Sure I won't be able to adjust it without a tool but how often do you need to adjust them. I bought that 3 pack of cables you linked above.
I ordered everything I need to get this back together. Did a complete tear down, cleaned up where the cases meet. Cleaned everything out and played with the transmission to see how it works. So when I get my bottom rebuild kit I can heat the cases, freeze the bearings and drop them in.
I planned on painting all the plastics and frame etc. But for now I am just going to respray any rub spots on the frame silver and put it all back together. Later down the road I can always take the plastics off and make it pretty. For now I just want to make sure it runs and works good and make sure I got rid of the bogging problem which none of us will know is caused by because I am doing everything. Could have been air leaks, that's getting fixed with all new seals, gaskets and yamabond. Could have been the piston getting caught in the cylinder so it wasn't operating smoothly. Could be carb rebuild but I doubt it as I have cleaned it many times.
So here is what I bought so far.
For Top End:
Complete top end with piston, rings, gaskets, spark plug
Exhaust Gasket
For Bottom End:
Wiseco Crank kit, with all new seals, gaskets and bearings
Yamabond
For Driveability:
Carb rebuild kit
New chain with new sprockets front and rear
3 new brake cables because the cable housing was splitting and binding up
Brake shoes, might as well while I have the cables off and wheels off.
Ignition coil (just in case the bogging is due to coil- doubt it)
Hopefully she is all good to go after this!
4 more pieces are coming in the mail.
Carb rebuild kit
new grips
swing arm seal/bearing kit
and most importantly the new crank, main bearings and seals!
Now when I get this thing back together what oil should I run? I found another thread and it says there are as many opinions as members here. I saw 10-30/10w-40 wet clutch which we sell at work, I saw type F ATF, Synthetic ATF, Rotella 15w-40.
I only ever changed the oil in this thing once and I used the Yamalube stuff I picked up at the dealer. I think I still have some, all my gears and everything are fine so should I just stick with that stuff?
Also I stripped everything down to the frame and am slowly working on repainting it all. The new silver color on the swing arm and chain guard looks beautiful!
Carb rebuild kit
new grips
swing arm seal/bearing kit
and most importantly the new crank, main bearings and seals!
Now when I get this thing back together what oil should I run? I found another thread and it says there are as many opinions as members here. I saw 10-30/10w-40 wet clutch which we sell at work, I saw type F ATF, Synthetic ATF, Rotella 15w-40.
I only ever changed the oil in this thing once and I used the Yamalube stuff I picked up at the dealer. I think I still have some, all my gears and everything are fine so should I just stick with that stuff?
Also I stripped everything down to the frame and am slowly working on repainting it all. The new silver color on the swing arm and chain guard looks beautiful!
Here it is! Waiting on a new kickstart spring, found out the hook part was broken off last minute 
And while I'm waiting I ordered the oil pump block off plate since the pump has never been used anyway while I've owned it.
So oil pump plate, new kick start spring, cover and fill it with oil after it's installed.
Still working on the frame and going to repaint tomorrow. Here is the swingarm all doctored up. Got new bearings and seals for that too. There was almost nothing left in there. Took some convincing with sockets and a huge hammer to get them out...
Going great but the project is going too fast!
And while I'm waiting I ordered the oil pump block off plate since the pump has never been used anyway while I've owned it.
So oil pump plate, new kick start spring, cover and fill it with oil after it's installed.
Still working on the frame and going to repaint tomorrow. Here is the swingarm all doctored up. Got new bearings and seals for that too. There was almost nothing left in there. Took some convincing with sockets and a huge hammer to get them out...
Going great but the project is going too fast!
congrats for the full engine teardown/assembly
but we get no closeup pics of the ebay cylinder and parts ?
no piston to cylinder clearences taken ?
leakdown tested ?
but we get no closeup pics of the ebay cylinder and parts ?
no piston to cylinder clearences taken ?
leakdown tested ?
X-2 on what Awk said. Hopefully the ports were champhered properly. If no pics at least give us a good description of how it looked. Any excess casting boogers? Fit and finish?
Please be sure to leakdown before starting it
at least give us a good description of how it looked. Any excess casting boogers? Fit and finish?Please be sure to leakdown before starting it
Hey guys.
I didn't get too technical on the new head. Just comparing the weight by hand they felt identical. I noticed no differences in design or quality comparing the OEM to the new one. The piston slides up and down inside perfectly fine. The gap between the piston and head is way better than my OEM one that was probably slapping back and forth off both sides.
I am confident the head will be fine, and I hope it is so I can do a good review on it so you guys can start buying them instead of getting the cylinders honed
I didn't get too technical on the new head. Just comparing the weight by hand they felt identical. I noticed no differences in design or quality comparing the OEM to the new one. The piston slides up and down inside perfectly fine. The gap between the piston and head is way better than my OEM one that was probably slapping back and forth off both sides.
I am confident the head will be fine, and I hope it is so I can do a good review on it so you guys can start buying them instead of getting the cylinders honed
Not trying to be difficult, but have you actually measured anything with a measuring device.
There is no way of checking clearances by sliding the piston up and down in the bore.
No one, and I mean no one, can compare quality by using hands as scales, tolerances are measured with precision instruments.
There is no way of checking clearances by sliding the piston up and down in the bore.
No one, and I mean no one, can compare quality by using hands as scales, tolerances are measured with precision instruments.
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