Search results

I used permatex for gear oil in the case halves I picked that one because gear oil is nasty stuff, no I never did find whatever it is thats holds the wrist pin needles in I have both the end c clips that holds the wrist pin in. I don't have the proper guage to do a leak down test. What holds the...

Ok, I'm the guy that has the blaster with the stator 80 retarded to make it go fwd. I finally got the clutch figured out had 2 check balls in found that out after I was done splitting the case which all looked pretty good. I didn't have a real gasket so I made one, went out and putted for about...

Just get rid of it and mix your oil, and save yourself from a headache or a engine. Very easy to did.

I finally got my new tusk clutch, put it in still grinds. Not from N to 1st but 1-2,2-3ect. I tried adjusting it a few different ways behind the cover started with the wright up then went loser alittle then tighter alittle, but when I started it ( tighter) the throttle seemed to hold WO so I...

Thank you for the write up, tried that and 80w and it didn't work for me this time still grinding, so I ordered a new clutch kit, be here in 6-8 days. I guess if that don't work I'm gona have to split the case and check the forks. Any ideas Thanks

So you're running 80 weight gear oil. Today I pulled the clutch rod a c-hair off the ball bearing didn't make a difference. So there are 6 gears 6 clutch pads, should I be pulling in as many clutch pads as to what gear I'm in, and would I be ok to just throw a $40 set of clutches at it or should...

I guess I will take the cover off again, tried it at the lever didn,t change. Is 10w30 ok to run in there atleast for now or can I run it all the time.

well I just deretared the stator alittle and runs pretty f-ing got, but the clutch sucks almost feels like it is starting in 2nd is that possible or maybe it's lacking low end at that point. The cable feels great. When I first started on this project I had to pry the clutches and plates apart...

I would love to try another stator but I just don't have that kind money to just throw at it. If it was broke no problem. The bike runs like sh*t but if you all don't think it will f- it up I'll try tuning it in by adjusting the stator. I guess at the end of the day sounds like it is trial time...

I kept drilling holes in to the stator until it went fwd. I you click on my profile and alblum you can see pics. I don.t know how to post them with a comment. Thanks

Got the bike some time ago for free dont have any history. I just got it running last month after removing all electronics. installing tors kit. and put a set of rings in few months back and when I finally got it running only reverse until someone on here said to retard it well it work but is it...

Nice question mr305 I have asked that same one. So will the bike be ok or is it just a bandade to a bigger problem? I have wondered if I could just keep messing with the timing to tune it in. Thanks

Ok so I checked part # it is (2XJ), I looked in my chymer book and it calls out for (2XJ) any other ideas please. I have an 89 blaster.

Ok I give up I can't get a pic posted. So if you would click on my name and check out my album. I have a pic of mine and the way it should be. Thanks

yes i know this is funny haha. but i,m not shearing keys and yes i did mod the stator and unless you are and idiot you can not possibley put the coils on the wrong way. If you would like to see a vid check out the thread ( no reverse ) or look it up on youtube ( blaster w/only reverse) look guys...

i am not shearing woodruff keys

what would cause me to have to retard the stator 90 deg to go fwd on a 1989 blasty ?

Is this a 1piece crank shaft or does it come apart. When I take this thing apart what should I be looking for? If the piston is TDC where should the woodruff key be?