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Yep it's finished. I never got to what I wanted this winter which was to make skis for the front and tracks on the back for some winter riding, but no time. Anyway, yea the bike works great, lots of fun. No injuries or broken parts yet.

I'm back. Haven't got out out at all, bought a house and have been busy on home reno's. However, found out I may have access to 300 acres of nice new trails. I have another idea in mind for the bike, just collecting some pieces and I'll post back with some pictures once I get the garage all set up.

Got a chance to take some decent photo's now that it is finished.

How are you liking them? I really wanted some but read they wear pretty quickly on anything hard. I went with some Kenda Dirt Dogs instead that I found locally.

If you're talking about the axle carrier bearings they are actually different kit numbers because of the seals. Cable rear brakes were different than the hydraulic brake models. If it's just the bearings being replaced then I believe they are the same.

They are different part numbers: 04 Blaster - 2JN-22141-00-00 04 Warrior - 1UY-22141-10-00

I'm betting the spacer is the right length but it's the a-arm mounts on the frame that are 'squished' together from being tightened too much.

On my rims the previous owner had used a bunch of the green bead sealer, I'm assuming because they were leaking. They had some bent lips I hammered out with a hammer. One section the bead area was flattened out and that I had to heat up with a torch and hammer out. I put new tires on those rims...

Talking about the RFY shocks? There is a guy who has a webstore who can re-valve and upgrade them as well. I have a set on my wife's motorcycle I built and they're ok. They work but that's a pretty light bike and doesn't leave the ground. Another forum member on that site (xs400) had a set...

I can definitely tell you it is so much less work and time to build up a nice Blaster engine and reinstall it than it is to modify a Blaster to fit a streetbike engine. I've done it and it took a long long time to do well. Cost wise it can be much less if you can get a nice cheap and running...

I used 1" .120 wall DOM for the slugs and used 1 slug per side. Then used 1.25" .120 wall DOM as sleeves over the slugs for the 4 inches I stretched the frame. No offense taken, I was flying by the seat of my pants on this. It is manageable for sure, only need the first two gears in the...

Had plans of going riding on the weekend so I quickly made up some things. Cut and powdered a rad guard. Skid plate to also cover exhaust on the right (too thin, need to get some thicker diamond plate) Went out on Father's day for a ride but no one else charged their camera's so I didn't...

Are the heims really that bad for seizing up? I've seen a few posts lately about them getting too stiff. My steering is already hard as it is with new balljoints on the tie rods and good condition ball joints in the stock arms. This is with a Diamond J widening kit though.

Thanks guys. Nice to finally ride it. I've got a few things left to finish up on it. I'll get some video of when I don't have to drive the car back home so I can actually get muddy and have some fun.

13 elantra and a 4x8 trailer....

I wore a helmet. They usually do as well but for some reason this time they didn't. Gas cap gasket is also on my short list of minor fixes.

I'm almost positive JT sprockets are who supply Yamaha/Suzuki OEM sprockets.

Took it to my in-laws tonight for them to try out. Then went out for some trail riding. It works great. Need to make up a spring loaded tensioner sometime but not a big deal.

That is the second push rod and another adjustment for the clutch. I would reinstall that rod and properly adjust it, then pull the clutch lever and see if the pressure plate moves out. If it does, the plates are likely stuck. The spring bolts just loosen out. Do it in a star criss-cross...

The clutch is on the other side of the engine. You need to take the right engine cover off. Download the manual available on here, I think it's a sticky.