Recent content by ricekiller1985

sounds like a lean condition did you do a leak test when you put it together check that before you start it again yo umay save yourself another rebuild

I got my big bore at .050 being machined now but when it runs out I would be interested in a new one from you. granted it will hopefully be a long while before it is needed but a new supplier would be great

sounds like you got hosed but so did I when I got mine but all you can do is make the best of it and now you will know everything there is to know about your blaster. plus you get the chance to build one bad a** machine just the way you eant it to get built

I dont know exacly what the piece is but it is supposed to be there. most new clutches that you buy will have the ring. when I repleced my clutch last year I found a company that eliminated that ring and sent a standard clutch disc instead. if I remember correctly they claim their clutch was...

Is this a new problem, a new machine, a new carb, has it been sitting all winter? I would say pull the carb off slean it really well and toss the oil injection and mix your fuel

I would have to say that if you have no idea what you are doing then you should get somebody in person to help you or pay somebody to do it. there isn't anything super difficult but the rings have to go in a certain way the piston could get put in backwards you need to know the torque specs...

well you will have to get the plange that it came with. I doubt you will find one on ebay. I would try to contact fmf and if they will sell just that then they would probably be happy to take your money or at least give you a part # and a dealer name where you can get it

I have the lrd on the way I have ridden a couple lrd blasters and they pull wicked hard all the way to the top way better then the fmf I had but they arent built for the same purpose I would have to say that the little extra money for the lrd is probably worth it too

holy cow man that is about anything that could be thought of to cause the problem I would start with a clean carb though

to find the source of the problem so it can be fixed. if it is a crank seal then a new topend wont cover that getting fixed and it will just burn up another top end. but the question is is it hard to kick when cold or do you just kick repeatedly with no luck

sounds like it could have low compression check it and see it it is low put in a new top end

I would invest in a flywheele puller so yo udont break the case any more I got mine off ebay for like $15 great investment I have used it on more then just my blaster

I would deffinately get a cap for the inlet on the carb and not put silicone in the hole the caps are cheap and there is no chance of them getting sucked into the motor and creating an air leak but silicone in the hole could come loose and get sucked in or something and create a bad situation

I would just to to the last overbore with the 68.25 piston and start saving for the big bore for an off season project. the extra boreing wont open the ports up that much if any at all

I like my g force deffinatly a great upgrade and significantly cheaper then the durablue or lonestar