WOT at start up...

Sheehaniskrs

New Member
Sep 26, 2012
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whenever I start my blaster it goes straight to wot till I kill it...I already disconnect all tors connections also (carb,throttle,brain) cable isn't sticking either Idk what to do
 
is the slide installed correctly ?
it must have the little slot aligned with the small pin that sticks out inside the carb, on the kicker side
 
yea, the long slot on the slide is on the right/kickstater side, I just ordered the tors elim. kit you linked me on my previous thread, but is there anychance my top end is bad? I'm new to the small motors and carburetors so I appreciate the help
 
and on my 01 I don't have e brake on the right lever it was gone when I bought it but I read in other threads that's the e brake sensor triggers tors? is there something I should be looking for?
 
and on my 01 I don't have e brake on the right lever it was gone when I bought it but I read in other threads that's the e brake sensor triggers tors? is there something I should be looking for?

As long as the connector is unplugged you should be good with that.

You could have a major air leak also, the reedcage area is the one that causes issues most of the time or crank seals if they have never been replaced.
 
and on my 01 I don't have e brake on the right lever it was gone when I bought it but I read in other threads that's the e brake sensor triggers tors? is there something I should be looking for?

No e-brake sensors on the pre 03's
 
Im going to also suggest an air leak,causing it to be really lean...I had crank seals leak on a previous blaster did the same thing...
 
thank you guys for the tips, going out right now to check those suggestions, I'll update the situation as I resolve it. all your inputs are greatly appreciated
 
Make sur your adjuster on the handlebar for your throttle Is not stopping the needle from dropping the entire way. I did this with mine thought I had a major prob ended up being a simple fix
 
checked throttle already, just checked and replaced reeds, still doin it...how can I find if there's a crank seal leak or where it would be? and is this a hard job to do?
 


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I sell the leaktesters. $33 shipped in the lower 48 states $43 international. Doing this test is the only way to know that your motor is leak free. You can also build your own tester, threaded tee, some nipples, tubing, gauge, PVC reducer bushing (for the intake), teflon tape, and a tire valve(schrader), cable ties.

3079b8e1.jpg
 
Good deal, It will help greatly in diagnosing motor problems! I found it cheaper to go to dollar store for the tire valve .99!
 
Slick what do you use to seal exhaust port?

Dont have a pic right now, But i use a piece of 1.5" silicone piece with a PVC plug in the end then hose clamped over the exhaust flange. I also use a piece of 3/16 steel plate with the holes drilled and a piece of old dirt bike inner tube. However this will not test the flange seal just the motor, that's why i like to have the flange attached if that's leak free, then good chance of no spooge leak. I had to use alot of RTV with the power pros but toomey seem to be alot more perfectly flat.
 
Ok thanks. Im still running stock pipes on both of my blasters. so i couldn't test the flange that way.
I tried expansion plugs but they wouldn't seal. I'll try the plate and tube method. sorry to hijack your thread.
 
Ok thanks. Im still running stock pipes on both of my blasters. so i couldn't test the flange that way.
I tried expansion plugs but they wouldn't seal. I'll try the plate and tube method. sorry to hijack your thread.

True! Ya plugs didn't work for me, I tried three different manufactures with no luck! But that is a good thing, as KOR polished that sucker to a mirror! I:I
 
leak test is a must!! slicks work awsome!!

an air leak very well could be your problem. i would check it first before just changing the crank seals, THATS ALOT OF WORK!!

when i rebuilt my first blaster i had revving problems on first start. My problem was the tors cap. The system works two levers one in thumb throttle other overtop the carb, if one are sticking it wont seem like it on the thumb especially the one at the carb. (this is when the system kills the motor when you dont relize)

You said the throttle wasnt sticking but i figured id mention this cuz it puzzled me at first. Did you take the side of the cap off on the tors system to conferm it wasnt dicked?