Well, found out whats making that noise??

[Blazed405]

Good news is i have a self trenching crankcase, bad news is it locked up. CRAP
Pictures here shortly...........yea tinypics,,,there hear..........

says hotrods on the other side??

Decided to stroke it +3 with vitos or wiseco but cant find a wiseco stroker crank?

Im not a big fan of cylinder spacers because i think it chances a crooked cylinder on the case, I found a Wiseco Piston but need help (computer crashed, lost favorites)

WHATS THE PART NUMBER FOR THE WISECO PISTON WITH THE 1.5mm RELOCATED WRIST PIN




Thannks for any help i get here i really appreciate it,
History' Bought a used one with a rebuilt top end, because the oil injection quit and it needed rings, so they said, IT ALSO NEEDED, new bearings,and so on. The main crank bearings were wibbly wobbly and the main rod bearing was shot then the rod got over into the crankcase and chewed the sh*t out of it didnt punch through but did a nice gouge job all the way around then those chunks lodged in the bearings and locked it up tight, there were even peices of aluminum shooting out the exhaust8-| and on top of the piston when i pulled the head off. And sitting there looking at it with the cylinder off wondering if it bit through the case into the tranmission I came up with a getto leak down test procedure, i took the crankcase vent and blew in it and it held pressueer, so no leaks from the transmission to the crank or through the clutch side seals, thank god, tore it the rest of the way apart and found a brand new set of gears in the transmission, hot damn.

Now its ready for some "more power" finally!

Started a thread on this earlier but cant seem to edit, or post in "ASK A PRO"
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/new-b-40013/

 

[sicivicdude]

Wiseco doesn't make a stroker crank currently. Vito's markets their +3 and hot rods sells a +4.

You can have your cylinder head recut to accept the stroker crank without a spacer plate but unless you plan on porting the cylinder and having the cut cut all together, there is little risk from running a spacer plate (other than having twice as many base gaskets to potentially leak). Some builders even port cylinder for stroker kits making use the spacer plate....

 

[Blazed405]

No stroker from wiseco,, well i quess its going to be a vitos, ( .000001 tolerance ?? yea,)
cant beleive all the crap about wisecos being out of round, saw the oconner video where he knocks a bump off the side of the crank web where the rod pin is, i think he screwed up!

Any knowledge of the piston with a raised /relocated wrist pin???

I really would like to do this.. but wonder if it would lower the skirt into the crank and thats where all the LONG ROD business comes from?



one step at a time and it should be a screamer before to long.

So far it has a fmf, 30mm mikuni, reed spacer and working on rewound charging for more lighting and a battery for my cigarette lighter to charge the gps phone

 

[sicivicdude]

Well, Wiseco moved their crank building operations "offshore" for the blaster crankshafts. They're simply a distributor for the Lung Tang crankshaft company now....

Any manufacturer can make a bum product once in a while and perhaps Ken happened to find that one that day.

Get a standard wiseco blaster piston in your current bore size (or the next bore up if you need one larger) and either run the spacer plate or get the head modified for the stroker crank. For maximum power the head needs to be modified anyway and it's just as easy to cut it for the stroker crank as it is to cut it for stock stroke (while someone has it anyway)

The long rod is a modification simply to increase the mechanical advantage of the rod to the crankshaft during the power section of the downward stroke. It give the engine more "torque" and reduces the stress on the main bearing by decreasing the angle slightly.

 

[Blazed405]

So if i have the head recut it would effectively be lowering ALL the ports, or if i use a spacer plate it would theoretically raise All the ports, or vice versa.

and doing this would change the performance, if there lowered theres more time for the compression to build during the stroke.....the same as a relocated wrist pin piston which is what im aiming at

With a spacer plate theres less time for compression but the exhaust opens earlier~ less time for combustion,, NOT GOOD ENOUGH

Same as a piston with a relocated pin...more compression timing and later exhaust, more combustion timing...===MORE POWER===

and i dont like the idea of my piston sticking up out of the cylinder,,surrounding swirl,detonation, blow by and so on.

 

[sicivicdude]

For the same port layout, the spacer plate "raises" the ports giving you more port timing.

Cutting the head "lowers" the ports, giving you less port timing BUTTTTTTT if you're going to get the cylinder ported for the stroker kit, the builder can work EITHER setup to optimum.

My point is with the getting the head cut, you don't have to purchase an unusual piston and even if you need to overbore, the head remains the same.

The top of the piston will only be 1.5mm higher in the cylinder at TDC with the 3mm stroker crank. The stock piston edge is nominally .8mm below deck height. The head gasket is .8mm thick. Raising the piston height at TDC by 1.5mm won't even stick the outside edge of the piston above the top of the headgasket. The head is actually cut not to allow space for the piston, but to allow space for the fuel/air charge. The piston SHOULD not hit the head with a 3mm stroker crank and no spacer plate but it will be .1mm from touching which would cause a catastrophic increase in charge speed and pressure which would result in detonation. There is a maximum speed fuel laden air can be pushed hot before you've excited enough fuel molecules to cause it to spontaneously combust (or "knock") the head is cut to allow enough space to stay under that "magic" speed.

 

[super noober]

with proper porting there is absolutely nothing wrong with running a spacer plate, thats how my motor was done and its been worry free and toons of fun I:I

 

[sicivicdude]

Spacer plate vs. no spacer plate is really a builder preference. I like not having a spacer plate because it reduces one of the base gaskets... but if the engine is built around it, it should run like a scalded dog.

 

[Blazed405]

i like to thing of myself as the builder and am trying to gain as much expertice on the subject as possible so when i go talk to the machinist ill be able to keep up with the conversation and not get totally dumbfounded by something he says and end doing the "yea sounds good, do that, heres my credit card and give me a call when its ready" then walking out the door and staring at all the pretty clouds on the way back to the car...X(

I may need to correct myself the 1.5mm wrist pin piston and the spacer plate are/would be the exact same thing, i think, maybe..

Every time i try to talk myself into the spacer plate i talk myself out of it more??
now i'm ready to get the offset piston, mill 1mm of the bottom of the cylinder, reshape the head and adjust the,,,port duration and position...?

Im guessing but it seems the spacer plate and stock piston OR wristpin piston fix & not modding the head would be more likely to detonate as its actually a plus 3mm stroke but its all at the bottom of the piston stroke, it doesnt change the length of the stroke after the intake ports are closed off (during compression), just adds 3mm more stroke to the forcing of pressures through the transfers from the crankcase~ more fresh gas into the same combustion chamber??

I want a trueblood stroker motor, not a excuse..

if i raise the exhaust and time it more longer then lower the intake and time it with more duration.....raise compression and increase exhaust duration~ more fuel=more cool~~


What sucks about all this is its locked up and i cant do a damn thing now, i was sitting there letting it warm up to run down to the mailbox and planned to change the oil to see if it looked as bad as when before i changed it after i bought it..then i waas going to;
leakdown test
measure the stroke with a pencil in the sparkplug hole
take the cylinder off and check out the rod bearing play
pull the head off and record the port positions from TDC
stick a degree wheel on it and do some more measuring
check the top deck clearance
and wire in my deadman bailoff switch

aint that the &hits


and by the way my computer aite all my cookies and i cant find a post i had saved from here, cant even remmember the name but it was on here and the guy really got into it. he was degreeing porting and poring milk into the greased cylinder to check cc's and i think it was the one with the DIY timing advance mod but i cant find it ...any help...

 

[Blazed405]

moment of silence please,,,

 

[Blazed405]

Heres what i was "worrying" about[/COLOR]

....."" Hay monkey throw me a piston "" .....

So when it says fresh rebuilt in the Cxgslist ad........

.......note to all diy seal install experts......

 

[Blazed405]

.......note to all diy seal install experts......

 

[sicivicdude]

Looks like someone had a field day with that engine... Driving a crank seal in too far is an easy mistake to make if you don't know any better. There's no stop on that hole so you can easily drive it in too far. I ruined the first set I put in because I drove them in like that. Thankfully I know better now and don't go around jacking up engines anymore.

 

[Blazed405]

I think i might cut a notch in mine and glue them in with some indian head gasket shelauqer after i buff the rubber off the outside of them, "just in case"

Looks like someone had a field day with that engine... Driving a crank seal in too far is an easy mistake to make if you don't know any better. There's no stop on that hole so you can easily drive it in too far. I ruined the first set I put in because I drove them in like that. Thankfully I know better now and don't go around jacking up engines anymore.

 

[sicivicdude]

You don't measure piston to cylinder clearance at the top, BTW. The piston has a tapered towards the top to allow the piston to expand as it heats.

You measure the cylinder bore using an inside bore gauge and micrometer (or digital/dial caliper)

You then measure the piston skirt front to back 10mm up from the very bottom of the skirt.

 

[Blazed405]

You don't measure piston to cylinder clearance at the top, BTW. The piston has a tapered towards the top to allow the piston to expand as it heats.

You measure the cylinder bore using an inside bore gauge and micrometer (or digital/dial caliper)

You then measure the piston skirt front to back 10mm up from the very bottom of the skirt.

I know,
but i could have measured this one like this with a popsicle stick, so i didnt bother diggin out the inside snap guages.

o boy
edited for future editing