The chamfering around the exhaust port, transfer ports, boost ports, and intake ports looks non-existant. Is there chamfering on the ports? Perhaps its just the pictures not showing it well?
Two rebuilds...underway
- Thread starter DeJay1206
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The chamfering around the exhaust port, transfer ports, boost port, and intake ports looks non-existant. Is there chamfering on the ports? If so, it looks to be very, very little. Perhaps its just the pictures not showing it well?
It also looks like that forged piston received zero warm up time , or expanded in the bore un-evenly, which is typical with a forged piston.
It also looks like that forged piston received zero warm up time , or expanded in the bore un-evenly, which is typical with a forged piston.
I honestly don't know anything about chanfering, but I'm assuming the guy who did the motor knows to chamfer the ports.
What exactly is chamfering and how can you tell it apart from an unchamfered port.
What exactly is chamfering and how can you tell it apart from an unchamfered port.
In looking at the pics is see a few things that worry me!
No chamfering of any ports.
What cross hatching it see is defiantly not crosshatching, it looks like circular scratching.
The head shows signs of warpage or incorrect tensioning procedure. (I do not know who the builder was, but if it is the one who Awk thinks it may be, then he has publically stated that he uses no tension wrench.
The piston shows signs or the incorrect bore size as it has cold siezed at the wrist pin boss?
No chamfering of any ports.
What cross hatching it see is defiantly not crosshatching, it looks like circular scratching.
The head shows signs of warpage or incorrect tensioning procedure. (I do not know who the builder was, but if it is the one who Awk thinks it may be, then he has publically stated that he uses no tension wrench.
The piston shows signs or the incorrect bore size as it has cold siezed at the wrist pin boss?
I can assure you that the proper heat cycles were done.
I was under the impression the forged wiseco pistons were the best you could get and that cast pistons, if problems arise, can explode into tiny balls making it better to run forged... But that's just what I recall being told..not personal experience lol
I'm not sure about the cross hatching, another term I'm not familiar with and the reason behind it.
I put the head on myself and torqued it to 24 ft lbs during the heat cycles. Haven't touched it since after the last heat cycle.
24 ft lbs is just enough to stretch the threads and allow gasket leakage, 20 ft lbs is ample and prescribed.
Crosshatching serves 2 purposes it provides an abrasive surface the cut the rings into shape to make a seal, and to hold ample oil to lubricate this process.
If the hatching is not consistent throughout the whole bore and not a 30 to 40 angle it cannot hold enough oil to lubricate the rings as they tear at the bore.
This is why heat cycling and easy riding for 2 tanks of fuel is for.
If you look at the piston crown you will see that the extra exhaust porting is redundant, they have not been doing any work, the main exhaust gas has exited by the large port.
Crosshatching serves 2 purposes it provides an abrasive surface the cut the rings into shape to make a seal, and to hold ample oil to lubricate this process.
If the hatching is not consistent throughout the whole bore and not a 30 to 40 angle it cannot hold enough oil to lubricate the rings as they tear at the bore.
This is why heat cycling and easy riding for 2 tanks of fuel is for.
If you look at the piston crown you will see that the extra exhaust porting is redundant, they have not been doing any work, the main exhaust gas has exited by the large port.
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Wow, I thought it was 24 for the head and 22 for the base.... Guess I was wrong!
A little more observation, evidence of scoring and scratching of the complete bore leads me to believe that the honing dust was not completely removed from the bore before assembly.
The machinist should have thoroughly cleaned the cylinder before shipping.
Was the cylinder bored and honed, or just honed?
The machinist should have thoroughly cleaned the cylinder before shipping.
Was the cylinder bored and honed, or just honed?
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"I was under the impression the forged wiseco pistons were the best you could get and that cast pistons, if problems arise, can explode into tiny balls making it better to run forged... But that's just what I recall being told..not personal experience lol"
Actually, all OEM bikes use cast pistons. Be careful what you read on the internet, from all the so called experts, about cast pistons. Its not true that all they do is fail. COMPLETE HOGWASH. A cast piston ALWAYS gets a bad wrap from other issues, such as and air leak, improper poor jetting, etc
I can show you lots and lots of pictures of failed wiseco forged pistons.
Actually, all OEM bikes use cast pistons. Be careful what you read on the internet, from all the so called experts, about cast pistons. Its not true that all they do is fail. COMPLETE HOGWASH. A cast piston ALWAYS gets a bad wrap from other issues, such as and air leak, improper poor jetting, etc
I can show you lots and lots of pictures of failed wiseco forged pistons.
Both cast and forged pistons have their goods and bads.
If you look after each one depending on their fads then both will serve you well.
I am pro cast, I have hundreds of hours on a 1995 piston with very little evidence of wear, even the machining marks still show on the piston.
My secret, run a little rich with Castor oil at 25:1, and warm up well before riding.
Leak test often, jet correctly and keep the air filter clean, recipe for a healthy long lasting engine!
If you look after each one depending on their fads then both will serve you well.
I am pro cast, I have hundreds of hours on a 1995 piston with very little evidence of wear, even the machining marks still show on the piston.
My secret, run a little rich with Castor oil at 25:1, and warm up well before riding.
Leak test often, jet correctly and keep the air filter clean, recipe for a healthy long lasting engine!
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Only messing up you did is inhaling that dust that saw, chisel , destroy and bobo the boy touching priest tell you. If you didn't bore or hone it then why does a new piston look like that? I can't believe you are taking the blame for someone else screw ups. I would ask for a refund but it may only come in cookie cakes and prayers.
Here we go again. Both pistons are fine but truth to the matter is a forged piston is much stronger. Let me post these pics again so the "so called experts" understand which one is stonger. What next the oil pump needs to be installed to correct it? Still curious on how changing from a forged piston to a cast is going to correct his issues. Maybe make you sleep better knowing another cast piston is in use.
Let's see those failed forged wiseco piston pictures and not ones that had other issues,air leaks,improper jetting, etc...forged:
Cast:
cast vs forged side by side:
^^^^^^^NUFF SAID^^^^^^^
About 2 years ago Quadrider10 posted pics of similar work performed by the presumed builder.
Unfortunately the pics have been lost in cyberspace due to a change in server.
The following is an excerpt of my comments on the work performed.
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Looking hard at the jug I cannot see any port chamferring, and it seems to have only a very light hone as I can see some good reflection of opposite ports.
There is still ring wear that has not been machined out at the lower of the exhaust port.
The round drilled intake ports are not at even height, and one is drilled as to leave very little meat around it.
If the pics depict a true view of the work performed, I would not be happy with it.
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Apparently the presumed builder has learned nothing since and still continues to perform shoddy and unacceptable work.
Unfortunately the pics have been lost in cyberspace due to a change in server.
The following is an excerpt of my comments on the work performed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looking hard at the jug I cannot see any port chamferring, and it seems to have only a very light hone as I can see some good reflection of opposite ports.
There is still ring wear that has not been machined out at the lower of the exhaust port.
The round drilled intake ports are not at even height, and one is drilled as to leave very little meat around it.
If the pics depict a true view of the work performed, I would not be happy with it.
---------------------------------------------------
Apparently the presumed builder has learned nothing since and still continues to perform shoddy and unacceptable work.
deejay.......can we ask what the reason was behind this second trip south for that same cylinder ?
something you did ? and did you correct that ?
and how many hours did you get out of it last season before it had to go back ?
we've all had our share of mistakes, it's did you learn from and correct them that matters
something you did ? and did you correct that ?
and how many hours did you get out of it last season before it had to go back ?
we've all had our share of mistakes, it's did you learn from and correct them that matters
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Well, I'll have her running eventually. I was considering a part out because of how frustrated I am but a friend talked me out of it. I'm just gonna set this thing off to the side for a few months and relax before another rebuild. Granted this is only the top end, and only takes six bolts to fix...
I'm just gonna sport the stock, pink, girls blaster for this summer lol
I'm just gonna sport the stock, pink, girls blaster for this summer lol
I didn't realize there was a ride planned... I would've gone if I had known and my bike was running.
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