To pump or not to pump

[Az_Blaster]

Hello all,
Just got my hands on a 2003 Blaster don't know much about what the previous, previous owners did to it but it does not have the oil tank. Without knowing much about this quad what should I look for as far as the removal of the oil tank to make sure things were done correctly before I take it out for the first time in a few weeks. I am concerned because the oil line to the carb had the old oil line just tied in a knot which came off when I touched it.

 

[sporty982000]

well,


take off the right side smaller plastic cover on the clutch side. you should be able to see a metal block off plate, where the injector pump use to be.

also the smaller injection line that runs to the carb, i think this was the line you said was tied in a not.

the line or end needs to blocked off and or plugged.

my self, I just ran new hose 1/8th size and took a bolt that was 1/8th and inserted into the whose/tube. to block it off.


run good oil, as others have said and mix 32-1. which is usually 4oz of oil to 1 gallon of gas.


But a leak down test, would be a great way to ensure, you have no air leaks, easier to replace a crank seal then to replace a top end !

and those seals last about 5 to 6 years. so if it has not been replaced, its likely a good idea to start thinking about replacing those crank seals.

Sporty

 

[J4M1E333]

you need to make sure that the inlet to the carb is blocked, if this is letting in air you could run lean which is baddddd news then you could do with performing the block off where the pump is, loads of how to's on here for that. Enjoy your new toy

 

[sporty982000]

Post a picture of your blaster ? Sometimes these guys see stuff in a pic and can help also that way.

is the pipe and muffler stock ? those are key areas also.
If you have a after market pipe or something on there, they might not have changed the main jet on it.

also good idea to drain out the tranny oil and put new in it, ya never know, when it was last changed and things like re-lubing all the cables and re-greasing the fittings are a good idea to do also.

Sporty

 

[J4M1E333]

yeah sporty pretty much nailed it, i tend to check the following when getting any new machine:

Check air filter, possibly clean and re-oil if needed
check brake pads, and possibly bleed if spongy
give everything a wobble for bearing check
check chain tension, check condition of chain tensioners
tyre pressures
change all fluids
change spark plug
generally check condition of everything

sure theres some things i missed, but thats the general idea

 

[Az_Blaster]

I have attached a few pics but it has a DG pipe? or just the end? and the oil tube is missing have to go get some things done before I tear into it will be easier tomorrow when my rear rims and tires get here and I can get it out of the back of my truck.

Thanks everyone for your ideas, suggestions and help.

 

[sporty982000]

A_Blaster.


that last pic, you did in red circle, thats where the lines would come out of. the line it connect to is the carb. Ill see if i can take a pic 4 ya and post it.

also, was this sitting 4 awhile ? i think you should hold off on riding it and do a leak down test 1st and it looks like that carb, may need to be taken apart and cleaned good.
yes stock pipe with a DG pipe..


Sporty

 

[sporty982000]

My line is a little long, it does not need to be that long. The bright yellow one, im holding in my hand, that has a bolt in it, to plug the line.

Check and see if yours does, if not, you will need to do so.

Sporty

 

[sporty982000]

you cover:

in blue, remove cover, and double check there is a block off plate there. 2 screws holding it in.

I add in red, arrow, to the area, that should be plugged.


link to ebay, pic of what a block off, looks like-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-blas...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c68debbbf&vxp=mtr


Sporty

 

[Awk08]

any good auto parts store will have an inexpensive 1/8" vacuum cap that fits that oil injection nipple on the carb, i like to glue them on with a little touch of silicon/rtv

here's some DIY's for removing the oil pump plastic gear, and either use a block off plate, or simply re-install the pump with the plastic gear removed............

http://www.blasterforum.com/searchresults.php?cx=partner-pub-9438014176008015%3A9127094460&cof=FORID%3A9&q=oil+injection+blockoff&sa=Go

 

[Blaaster]

Stock header with DG muffler.

Plug the carb injection nipple with a cap and a little sealant.

Remove the cover to see wether the pump has been blocked off with a kit, or the gear has just been removed. A pump running dry is not good.

 

[Az_Blaster]

Thanks Sporty you rock Bro, And yes before any riding I am going to clean the carb soak it and rebuild it, needs some work but well worth the $210 I paid for it.
Also what do you mean by leak down test?

 

[J4M1E333]

search leak-down on here if you havn't got one or don't fancy making one 'slickerthanyou' is the man to talk to, he makes them at a bargain price.

 

[Blaaster]

 

[Az_Blaster]

Hey everyone, Ok stage one complete got thru AZ's inspection process now just have to send out letters to the previous owners and DAMMIT it has a lien on it so contact them as well hopefully that will not be to much hassle and/or money to get everything cleared.

Anyhoo I removed the injection plate and I believe that the pump is still there took a few pics so you guys in your awesomenesses( is that even a word?) can see more. Also the other picture is something on the right handlebar says Gunnar killer on it?

 

[Az_Blaster]

Oh and thanks for the info on the leak down test, where should i look for the leak tester tool? cycle shop or eBay?
Thanks again

 

[Blaaster]

PM member slickerthanyou for the leak tester, or you can make yourself.

The Gunnar killer is possibly a tether switch that cuts the ignition if you part company with the bike.

To get spark the tether plug must be inserted into the unit!