sputtering and bogging!

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

Hello, I am new to BF but I have searched on the site many times over the past year to help me out. Here is my problem and then I'll explain mods and such.
Bike starts on 1st or 2nd kick every time. You have to give it a little gas to get it started. Once bike is started it will not idle without dieing. If you pull the throttle a little it will stay running but sputtering. Once its warmed up you can pull on the throttle all the way and it will bog down but stay running. I can ride it and it seems to pick up more power the higher gears I go but still bogs down when you pin it. Bike smokes like a white color and smokes more as you ride it.

03 Blaster
Bored 40 over
34mm carb- filter on a pipe straight off the Carb
170 jet size
boysen reeds with throttle body spacer
LRD pipe and silencer
Twist throttle

Mutiple items are new on this bike from a previous electrical issue. No leaks where found when a leak down was conducted.
Thanks for the help.

blasterkid1998 · Nov 30, 2014

its a carb issue sounds wayy rich? what were the leak test results? does the exhaust smell like gear oil?

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

OK don't know if this would effect it but the pipe has a crack in it where the mounting bracket is. I can see smoke coming out of it. I don't think the crank is leaking, the exhaust definatley smells like fuel. I can take the air filter off completely and it runs the same.

Awk08 · Nov 30, 2014

the pipe cracked is definately creating a lean condition by sucking air back into the cylinder during it's scavenging phase <(why a 2 stroke pipe has the big expansion chamber, to suck unburnt gasses back into the cylinder)

is the TORS circutry deleted to rule that out
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/

clean the carb, check float level, set airscrew, plug chop < DIY's found here........
http://www.blasterforum.com/forums/carburetor.138/

leakdown test, new B8ES plug, and check woodruff key to see if flywheel is in time.

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

Well I guess I need a new pipe then. TORS has been deleted and cut forever. Reeds is brand new and flywheel and stator are new, just checked the woodruff key to make sure it wasn't sheared. I'm going to pull the Carb again and adjust.

98blaster · Nov 30, 2014

Ill buy your busted up LRD.
You sure that your carb is a 34mm carb? Id assume its a keihin, if so a 310 keihin main would run my small block Chevy, it should be down around a 150-160 with like a48-55 pilot

blasterkid1998 · Nov 30, 2014

I'd buy that LRD from you if you want to get rid of

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

OK I pulled the Carb and cleaned the sh*t out of it and made sure the float was adjusted to the right height. I made a mistake and it has a 170 jet in it now. I can't get the bike to idle at all now. You have to give it a little gas to keep it running. I rode it and it rides a little better like you can get through some of the power band but it still bogs down then falls on its face. Curious why it bogs in low gears but the higher you go up in gears the better it gets. Any help please?

speedyslyder · Nov 30, 2014

compression test?
airscrew setting?
got pics?
was it like this when you bought it or did it just happen?
electrical??.....what type of stator is on it ect?

98blaster · Nov 30, 2014

Im really gonna go out on a limb here, im thinking you have a blown out crank seal on the clutch side, I had the exact symptoms on a customers blaster, leak test it again, an post legit results,

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

speedyslyder said:
compression test?
airscrew setting?
got pics?
was it like this when you bought it or did it just happen?
electrical??.....what type of stator is on it ect?

I have messed with the air screw but doesn't seem to change anything. It used to run fine but then I wasn't getting spark. I got an adjustable stator off eBay and that's what on now, but set to 0 degrees.

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

98blaster said:
Im really gonna go out on a limb here, im thinking you have a blown out crank seal on the clutch side, I had the exact symptoms on a customers blaster, leak test it again, an post legit results,

So you mean the seal behind the stator and fly wheel? I will test to see.

speedyslyder · Nov 30, 2014

so it ran fine...then cheap stator...now does not run fine

it could be alot of things,or combination,but it could be the stator alot of people that have bought cheap stators off e-bay had to in the end, buy an oem one or rebuild stock one maybe.
if it was running fine until the whole spark thing,then i would suspect the stator,after i did a compression test of course,but the list goes one.
Do you know the name brand of it? or did it every run right with the aftermarket stator?

98 blaster said clutch side which is opposite of flywheel side....you know where the tranny oil is stored lol

if it was leaking from that side it would burn tranny oil and run like crap

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

No the bike stop getting spark with the original stator. Got new plug, cdi and boot still nothing. Tested the stator and was getting any spark so bought a new one. Tested this stator and its getting plenty as well as through the CD and to the boot. Bright blue spark from the plug. The bike starts fine so I don't think its anything to do with the stator or spark.

I did some research and saw there was a seal on both sides, stator side and clutch side. I don't smell oil though nor do I see the fluid going down at all.

98blaster · Nov 30, 2014

Yes but it dont take long for tranny oil to be so diluted with fuel that it dont smoke bad. Pull the fill plug out of your clutch cover, an take a good sniff, if it smells like fuel, you can stop thinking about whats wrong.

speedyslyder · Nov 30, 2014

ive heard to put the breather tube,that runs under tank in water and see if it bubbles,although i have not tried it.
a blaster would start with probably plus 10 timing dont me it is right

are you sure you dont know the name brand of stator?
can you not do a comp test?
i dont remember about the 34mm carb on blaster but,you got alot going on with the huge carb,spacer,straight from carb air filter...i have heard problems about larger carbs and strainght from carb filters..if i find the posts i will show you,or you can search

here is some
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/34mm-carb.34361/

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/34mm-pj-carb-for-stock-displacement.38455/

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

Stator brand - Caltric is what it says
Those links above state pretty much everything I have and it works. Same engine, Carb size and filter and a lot of people say it runs great. The bike used to move'for a 2 stroke and had no problems.

blooper · Nov 30, 2014

98blaster said:
Yes but it dont take long for tranny oil to be so diluted with fuel that it dont smoke bad. Pull the fill plug out of your clutch cover, an take a good sniff, if it smells like fuel, you can stop thinking about whats wrong.

Just went and smelled and the crank and the actual cap smell like fuel, strong.

speedyslyder · Nov 30, 2014

blooper said:
Stator brand - Caltric is what it says
Those links above state pretty much everything I have and it works. Same engine, Carb size and filter and a lot of people say it runs great. The bike used to move'for a 2 stroke and had no problems.

use to move until you put the caltric stator on

research the electrical problems and decide for yourself it that caltric is worth it....you know your quad better then anyone on here,but if perhaps you could get ahold of a cheap oem stator...i would say it will save you from problems down the road...ps auto parts store you can buy a comp gauge for like 30 bucks and own it the rest of your life

others will post with there expertice,between 98 blaster and me we got perhaps...... a bad crank seal and perhaps a bad stator that wont work under load

...white smoke equals tranny fluid getting burnt,also if it has been running lean or over heating,then you should inspect top end,and do a compression test as well

98blaster · Nov 30, 2014

The crank seal is bad, your transmission should never never smell like fuel, pull clutch cover off an you will find seal in multiple pieces, install new seal, leak test and ride.

sputtering and bogging!

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