Get a toomey and thank me later.
If i find a deal on a decent right bend for the blaster, I will probably jump on it.
I can always sell off the DG, to someone who wants a sweet ass sounding "race" pipe.
If i could preserve them I would probably let go of the graphics as well, I like the way they look well enough, but just like on the trail the other day, doubling with my little guy (both of us together could still strap 30 lbs of fuel,food,and ice water on it and just be at the weight limit) caught up to a banshee on the trail talking to a couple singletrackers, was gonna pull up and let him see the banshee up close, as his official sperm donor wouldn't know a man's sport even if it was crammed up his delicate little keyster.
Unfortunately between the ring of a well tuned barely silenced 2-stroke and energy drink graphics the shee rider felt like he had something to prove and on the relatively smooth damp hard pack sand took off grabbing a 3rd gear power wheelie, of course me being nearly stock 65lbs heavier than normal, heat soaked and on a 14t cog. I had little chance but still made a bit of a chase, soon realizing the shee was traveling way faster than was safe for a busy two way trail, I chose another path at the next fork. I did stop long enough to ask my little buddy (who obviously was on the verge of the adrenline shakes) which way he wanted to go. Lol it took him a minute to gather himself. Good fun.
Soon as some of my heli stuff sells, I am sending my head off for a rechamber.
As for the spare cylinder I have cleaned up: (still needs polish or texture) the underside of the transfers, opened up all but the window of the exhaust port, drilled small intake auxiliaries into the secondary trnasfers, and worked the intake the smallest amount. i may possibly do a putty job to the intake as it can help keep velocity at lower flow rates, as well as remove corners and bad angles that limit high volume flow. If i remember correctly there is room to extend and radius the center rib, fill in unwanted corners, and still have room to have a decent open mouth for the boost port, as well as smooth tunnels opening up to the reed cage.
I can't remember if a reed spacer is needed or not? the other option is to fit up a ?cr125 reed cage,
I am considering on opening up the exhaust port to 88 atdc for a duration of 184° it looks like up to 188 duration might be workable.
But, I am hoping I can get by without cutting a couple more degrees duration into the transfers if so might just do the mains. Supposedly that will help spread the power around a little?
I am waiting on some stones and a carbide set to come in before, I go any further, although if you got the time a couple different sized rat tail files allow for long flat curves, are easier to control, and make it obvious where the low spots are.
Right now my biggest concern is the Trans oil or more like what was in it after around 15 hours of mixed riding using maybe 8 or 10 gallons of 93 octane pure gas pre-mix.
Shortly after getting the bike, I changed the Trans. oil, it was so thin and black with a nice metallic sheen almost like someone put in some fine metal fleck before they realized it wasn't dark chocalate auto paint and that's just what didn't settle in a few minutes, there was more and bigger flakes of metal settled on the bottom than I had hoped to see.
But really it was sooo bad that I almost took it out, got it warm run it through the gears and immediately changed the oil again, just to help rinse it out. Now I really wish I would have. Now, I have no idea how much of what came out in this oil change was left in there from before I got it, and how much is current wear, not to mention the extra wear and tear caused by particles that were left behind.
I WILL ABSOLUTELY RECCOMEND TO COMPLETELY FLUSH THE TRANS CASE, of a newly bought or obviously neglected bike by whatever means necessary. At least metal from clutch and gearbox wear doesn't feed the main, and rod bearings like on a 4 stroke, especially since there is no oil filter.
Out of sheer curiosity, what happens to metal particles from piston, ring, cylinder, rod bearing and thrust washer wear, I am sure some makes it up through the transfers, and out the exhaust port. The rest? Does it just get stuck to the litte puddles of thick oil in the bottom of the crankcase. Does it get thrown around and around until it eventually makes it out?
Will I find alot of metallic sludge in the bottom of my motor if I were to split the cases to get the crank rebuilt and replace the main bearings, whIle doing a routine top end rebuild?