Project used/abused blaster

[deeeebeeeeee]

Nothing to special here, seem with every post and every question I end up going on for paragraphs about what I am doing to or for my blaster. This is just a place to detail problems, repairs, and upgrades in relation to the used, not so well maintained, and poorely repaired Blaster I picked up.

To start with, I was looking for something between a Suzuki Ltd 85 and a Honda 250x. I wanted something inexpensive, easy to ride. And cheap to keep running, common, plenty of used parts, and so on.

I found two bikes that were in budget (under $1000) and fit the bill otherwise. A '02 Blaster and a 90's 350 Warrior the warrior needed a master link for the chain to even be rideable, so we looked at the blaster first.
The guy was asking 900. With the rear brakes not working, 75% worn tires, chain adjuster maxed, front sprocket worn, chain loose. Took It for a ride and it ran ok, compression seemed really good, (stiff kick, good low end), clutch ad front brakes worked good, gears shifted smooth (for as blaster). I already had my trailer loaded and cash I hand so I ended up giving the guy $600. Would have only given him $500 if I knew how much tires had went up in the last 5 or ten years.
Loaded it up an headed home.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

At the house.
Once I got it home and unloaded it, I gave it the once over and immediately noticed bad, missing, and incorrect bolts on the plastic. TheRe was a crooked cat eye fog light in place of the head light, the lower a arm was bent, but most Importantly it severely needed jetted.

It came with a DG National pipe (oiled steel), the air box cover removed, and stock jetting.

It was the weekend and the yamaha shop was closed so I experimented by drilling the stock jet going up 1 numbered bit size at a time until I got a bit too large. Then on Monday I went and got three jets based in what they had 280,290,310. I ended up using the 310 which is a bit rich on hot humid days. I have a 290, and 300 currently laying around just in case.

When doing the carb work i checked the reeds / stock and turned the he em over until I could orDer new ones, I and so had to redo the gasket surfaces on the cage and boot.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Got the jetting mostly straight, and ordered rear pads, other than being froze up from lack of use, they appeared to be intact.
Tore the rear brakes apart cleaned and sanded everything as good as possible,the internals were so smooth I had hopes that the adjuster might even work. Ordered a bearing set for it as well, got the pads put it all together, got the contrary cable adjusted and working smoothly, onlynx to find I was missing a piece. A thick washer with slots for the caliper assembly and a tab for the housING it holds the back of the internals still so the pad will cam out with the lever. Retail $85. I stil, have no rear brakes.

Took a link out of the chain. Cleaned the adjusters and oiled the Chain .
Took the stock air filter out to clean it and the foam seperate for the center grommet. Ordered a pre-oiled dual element filter.
Put the new plug I used when jetting In and removed the old one and cleaned it.

The rear has +3 or +4 inch spacers on each side, but the front was stock width. Did not seem right this way.
Found out I could flip the front tires to get about +3 on each side, so I did so. I also adjusted the preload up two clicks from the lowest setting or one higher than stock. Rear preload was lowered to reduce kick.

Picked up a low pressure guage and finally was able to set tire pressures where I wanted them. They were off by up to a pound or more just setting them by eye.

Pulled pipe found the exhaust gasket was I crooked and was leaking, it had allowed water and grit to be sused in against the piston. Reseated gasket and retorqued header. Also tightened up the fit between the pipe and silencer.

Purchased, modified and installed grab bar.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Leaving this space to later add the rest of the past work.
I am doing this to basic chronicle what i have done to get it back up to snuff.
I am a function over form kind of guy, after i get it redone and truly running right
I will then worry about removing any sticker that doesn't have an internal part to match.
In the end, 22" MX style tires w/ 1" spacers and a few manufacturer stickers will be all that tells the tale of what it's capable of, otherwise it will look like your plain some one threw on a pipe bike.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Today's work consisted of removing the "3.5 rear wheel spacers and flipping the front rims back to normal.
As expected it is now much more agile in tight twisty technical stuff, but not as stable in fast sweeping turns.

Most importantly I hope that I won't have to beat my swing arm guard back down off the Chain guide and rotor disk.
"18 tires are bad enough where I ride an extra "7 of width....... that much worse.

Still mixing standard twc3 oil 24:1 with 93 octane pure gas, working good so far, no fouling, does load up a bit after extended idle periods.

 

[Blaaster]

2 strokes are renowned for building up a gut full of fuel at idle, hence the practice of throttle blipping to purge the crankcase.

Jetted correctly, a ratio of 24:1 is a good idea if you are going to be running at full throttle for extended periods, it will prevent lubrication starvation of the crank rod bearing.

I run 25:1 for all engines around 200cc and have yet to foul a plug.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

2 strokes are renowned for building up a gut full of fuel at idle, hence the practice of throttle blipping to purge the crankcase.

Jetted correctly, a ratio of 24:1 is a good idea if you are going to be running at full throttle for extended periods, it will prevent lubrication starvation of the crank rod bearing.

I run 25:1 for all engines around 200cc and have yet to foul a plug.

Took her out to the local trails today, me 125 lb and my 65 lb 10year old, it was a little dry today and about 10 degrees cooler than usual. It was busy at the trails today, Alot of mixed riding on and off the throttle, low mid and full throttle sections.

Bike did quite well a couple long full throttle sections right before having to idle across the parking lot, left the top feeling a bit warmer than I like, but considering the circumstances.... on the way back out, ran her hard in the upper gears, followed by a couple minutes of fast cruising and the top was "normal" temp again (At least according to my super scientific spit-o-meter)
Light slow sizzle = good to go.
Moderate sizzle= bit warm
Fast sizzle = starting to hit yellow line
Fast sizzle with quick dry = warning I the Orange
Jumps off the head after a brief sizzle = Houston we have a problem
Jumps off the head immediately without a sizzle = glow in the dark / yes those sparks coming out the exhaust were my piston.

Remind me to write a paper on this I smell a Nobel prize .

Back to reality all went well, I was quite happy with the jetting could have been a little richer for my purposes (longevity), but far from too lean.

The Boyesen Dual stage reeds I recently got for $10, really cleaned up the low end, and sharpened the middle, more usable low end than before.
Bike pulls hard on top, until a point where it hits a wall and just quits pulling, I got a feeling it's time for a pipe with a tighter band and more top end. It has tons of midrange power, but in 6th it will be pulling so good thru mid, that other than a little crackle it is almost hard to tell when the band hits. Thanks DG, I am sure all of us who buy a pipe for our two stroke machines are looking for a mildly cammed 4 stroke type power band. Makes it easy enough for the boys to ride. I honestly prefer just enough low and mid to get around with a power band like a lightswitch. Where a little bit of stutter is your warning to take aim and hold on.

I would not run a fatty though simply because they are to popular, never was one to do what the crowd is doing. Seems a Pro-Circuit will fit the bill

 

[jimmu]

Did you pick this up from Robertsdale, AL? Those stickers look similar to one I saw on CL.

 

[Iwantablaster]

Cool deeebeee! Good thread! Keep more coming!

 

[pudvah]

Get a toomey and thank me later.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Did you pick this up from Robertsdale, AL? Those stickers look similar to one I saw on CL.

Nah it came from the Chatt, TN Area8
Which come to think of it, I live less than an hour from the AL border and found it on craigslist, the guy was asking $900. He had just posted the add early that morning. I called and verified it was available, and immediately loaded up the trailer figured it would be a great project and even in a mediocre state of tune would be a good bike for the boys to learn on.
When I got there the guy had the blaster setting out front, I could tell he had been riding within the last hour, the motor was cool but not cold, started up first kick or two, seemed to have really good compression, ran ok thru mid, was a little sick at wot. Tires were 75% worn, chain was ready to have a link taken out, no rear brakes.
On the shiny side of the coin, plastic was in good shape, clutch felt pretty good, controls were smooth, rims, axles, bars and stem were straight, and most important the motor seemed quite sound mechanically.
Made a deal shook on it, handed over some dead presidents, or inventor as it was, loaded it up and took it home.
I think the top was relatively new, and that the leak in the exhaust flange had caused some issues maybe even soft locked the motor, as the first time I had it out in the dust, dirt and muddy water, it did get stiff to kick at one point. So I am sure the guy knew something wasn't right, and was thrilled to take my offer.

Now that the header leak is fixed, along with a dozen smaller issues, and I still have good compression and power, I figure I didn't get hurt none by buying it. My biggest worry is the wear on the bottom end, with the motor suckling in dust and worse sipping muddy water, when the head pipe and motor was cooled by what ever water hole you happened to run thu as some of us blaster owners tend to do to get a little liquid cooled boost. Lol

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Get a toomey and thank me later.

If i find a deal on a decent right bend for the blaster, I will probably jump on it.
I can always sell off the DG, to someone who wants a sweet ass sounding "race" pipe.
If i could preserve them I would probably let go of the graphics as well, I like the way they look well enough, but just like on the trail the other day, doubling with my little guy (both of us together could still strap 30 lbs of fuel,food,and ice water on it and just be at the weight limit) caught up to a banshee on the trail talking to a couple singletrackers, was gonna pull up and let him see the banshee up close, as his official sperm donor wouldn't know a man's sport even if it was crammed up his delicate little keyster.
Unfortunately between the ring of a well tuned barely silenced 2-stroke and energy drink graphics the shee rider felt like he had something to prove and on the relatively smooth damp hard pack sand took off grabbing a 3rd gear power wheelie, of course me being nearly stock 65lbs heavier than normal, heat soaked and on a 14t cog. I had little chance but still made a bit of a chase, soon realizing the shee was traveling way faster than was safe for a busy two way trail, I chose another path at the next fork. I did stop long enough to ask my little buddy (who obviously was on the verge of the adrenline shakes) which way he wanted to go. Lol it took him a minute to gather himself. Good fun.

Soon as some of my heli stuff sells, I am sending my head off for a rechamber.

As for the spare cylinder I have cleaned up: (still needs polish or texture) the underside of the transfers, opened up all but the window of the exhaust port, drilled small intake auxiliaries into the secondary trnasfers, and worked the intake the smallest amount. i may possibly do a putty job to the intake as it can help keep velocity at lower flow rates, as well as remove corners and bad angles that limit high volume flow. If i remember correctly there is room to extend and radius the center rib, fill in unwanted corners, and still have room to have a decent open mouth for the boost port, as well as smooth tunnels opening up to the reed cage.
I can't remember if a reed spacer is needed or not? the other option is to fit up a ?cr125 reed cage,

I am considering on opening up the exhaust port to 88 atdc for a duration of 184° it looks like up to 188 duration might be workable.
But, I am hoping I can get by without cutting a couple more degrees duration into the transfers if so might just do the mains. Supposedly that will help spread the power around a little?

I am waiting on some stones and a carbide set to come in before, I go any further, although if you got the time a couple different sized rat tail files allow for long flat curves, are easier to control, and make it obvious where the low spots are.

Right now my biggest concern is the Trans oil or more like what was in it after around 15 hours of mixed riding using maybe 8 or 10 gallons of 93 octane pure gas pre-mix.
Shortly after getting the bike, I changed the Trans. oil, it was so thin and black with a nice metallic sheen almost like someone put in some fine metal fleck before they realized it wasn't dark chocalate auto paint and that's just what didn't settle in a few minutes, there was more and bigger flakes of metal settled on the bottom than I had hoped to see.

But really it was sooo bad that I almost took it out, got it warm run it through the gears and immediately changed the oil again, just to help rinse it out. Now I really wish I would have. Now, I have no idea how much of what came out in this oil change was left in there from before I got it, and how much is current wear, not to mention the extra wear and tear caused by particles that were left behind.

I WILL ABSOLUTELY RECCOMEND TO COMPLETELY FLUSH THE TRANS CASE, of a newly bought or obviously neglected bike by whatever means necessary. At least metal from clutch and gearbox wear doesn't feed the main, and rod bearings like on a 4 stroke, especially since there is no oil filter.

Out of sheer curiosity, what happens to metal particles from piston, ring, cylinder, rod bearing and thrust washer wear, I am sure some makes it up through the transfers, and out the exhaust port. The rest? Does it just get stuck to the litte puddles of thick oil in the bottom of the crankcase. Does it get thrown around and around until it eventually makes it out?
Will I find alot of metallic sludge in the bottom of my motor if I were to split the cases to get the crank rebuilt and replace the main bearings, whIle doing a routine top end rebuild?

 

[jvb]

Normally you won't have metal shavings in the crankcase, a puddle of oil is normal.
If there is no direct metal to metal contact, there shouldn't be any metal sludge in the crankcase.
The normal wear of an engine is so little, that those microscopic metals are continiously being mixed with the intake charge exiting with the exhaust fumes.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Normally you won't have metal shavings in the crankcase, a puddle of oil is normal.
If there is no direct metal to metal contact, there shouldn't be any metal sludge in the crankcase.
The normal wear of an engine is so little, that those microscopic metals are continiously being mixed with the intake charge exiting with the exhaust fumes.

That makes good sense, wouldn't expect to find much oF anything in there unless something had broken and ground itself to bits.

Whats your take on the Trans oil, I know that one oil change didn't flush out all the crap, from what looked like a loooonnggg overdue oil change. I am glad I changed it again after ten or so hours, and hope it's cleaner next time

 

[Fast6hand]

It could of been material from the plates. Next time run a magnet through it and see if anything sticks. Obviously if it's aluminum that's not s valid method.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Get a toomey and thank me later.

Just picked up a toomey B1 pipe and header flange for 99.99 shipped.

 

[pudvah]

yeahhhhhh that's awesome man you are gonna loveeeeee it.

 

[pudvah]

holy crap I just realized the price 100 bucks is a steal seeing as though the flange goes for 80 on their site.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Toomey pipe turned out to be quite nice, although now the air leak has to be fixed the Toomey pulls hard enough on top to really sick some air through the motor.
Toomey from DG thread

Another thing those extra rpm accomplished is skirting my slappy loose piston.
Rebuild time
Getting stoked found out that the practice cylinder I raised the exhaust port a little over a mm only to realize whoever had the cylinder before me had went almost 2mm. For my purposes I would have had to run a super thin base gasket at least to get the port back down to a level I am comfortable with, but I am only going on what I have read so I really don't want to push extremes and risk having the motor misbehave. Especially can't have it make no pulling power on bottom mid, then suddenly jump to big hp numbers at 7k or 8 k just to shut down again at 9k when the intake can't keep up. I will keep and maybe revisit this jug later

Another thing I noticed is that he had messed with the transfers to don't think he raised tem as much but each had a 3mm tall by 1mm deep chamfer on it, which seems like it would tend to decrease blow down at low rpm and leave it unchanged at high rpm, the worst of both worlds if you will.

So with a exhaust port around 190° duration and the transfer windows looking screwy, as well nothing cleaned up underneath, I figured it was hard to tell what else might have been done as far as material removed from the top or bottom of the jug ,as well as the fact it would probably have a razor thin power band, if it didn't fall off before it came on.

After verifying my current jug was untouched I decided to start over with it. I am looking to move the center of the exhaust port up around 1.25 mm in the center as well as flattening out the top of the port and sides, increasing the area , the factory design is obviously conservative, seems like you are likely to skirt a piston before wearin out the rings. I think i can stand a little additional ring wear. As far as shaping the exhaust port goes I don't think its gonna hurt things at all especially when more flow will be needed to support the higher rpm, without having to go as high on the exhaust port, transfer ports have been cleaned up as far as I can reach, for this project I will leave the windows unchanged, the intake is getting some shaping done, as well as some small (boyesen ports?) drilled they will be of minimum size, I have a couple different pics with some shapes I like, as well as an example of putty work that helps with low end velocity w/o hurting peak flow. Both Windows and aluminum will be squared and opened slightly. Hopefully the intake and transfer work will be just enough to match up well with the exhaust timing and area.

Anyone with any advice or comments on this please speak up.
I am also considering if or how to handle the piston ports?
For the most part I am following KOR blaster porting vid, additional shaping of windows will be similar to the shapes of sport port/vitos 240 style windows.?
I am trying very hard to identify not only what works but what works together in the range of my project.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Motor is completely torn down cases split main bearings pulled.
Even after getting the clutch holder in the mail today I still had to heat the nut with a butane micro torch. 9 (you would be surprised how hot they get) then use a 2 foot cheater pipe to get it off.

I am about to lap the cases, and clutch cover. Of course I plan to remove as little material as possible and finish with 600 maybe 800 grit.
Questions as far as lapping an sealing the motor.
Is it likely to accidentally take off too much and cause clearance problems?
Is 600 grit fine enough to allow the case bond to seal?
I have some red high temp rtv, which I figure will be ok for the clutch cover and maybe the base gasket? What can I pick up from the local parts store for the cases?
What should I use for the base?
OK to coat the head gasket with copper spray adhesive?

Anyhow as an experiment I used brake kleen to flush the main bearings just to see if I could get them clean. Sprayed and sprayed, swash ed them around in it while spinning the bearing and hit them with compressed air.
Things felt good while the were a bit wet with brake cleaner, checked them a little later when they were dry and you could feel the bearing tighten up the loosen again as it ran across the aluminum grindings that had to be embedded in there somewhere.
Couldn't see it to save my life but guarenteed it would have at least scored my bearings before wearing away.
Maybe on could let the engine idle/ fast idle with no load for a few long cycles and wear the shavings out with little damage....I wouldn't reccomend it....Thank you AWK08 for warning me about this, if he had not I would have sprayed and prayed that all was well, and probably chewed the main bearings out of it, just about the time I figured it was OK to get on it. Thanks again AWK.

Cylinder is mostly ported to where I want it, I still have to drill moderate sized boyesen ports as well as decide on whether or not o putty my intake.
Has Anyone tried it with and without doing the epoxy work??? Any advice?

Got to order my bearings, and wait for my piston to show up, then ready or not it's getting shipped to Mr. O'Conner along with my head, for a .020 over and a pump gas rechamber, or maybe a 100 octane chamber? I need to see how far I will have to drive to get either 100 octane or 110+ octane to mix 50/50 with 93 pump gas.