plug chop technique?

[DirtyBlasterd]

i swapped the dg header on my new blaster(the one with the goofy hood) with a fmf, and put in a 280 jet to start with. its all stock except the pipe/silencer, removed airbox lid, and oil injection block off. sounded pretty good, maybe a little rich. ready to do some plug chops, but i wanted to make sure i was doing it right before i start hacking up plugs, ive seen some conflicting information. i warmed it up, then switched plugs and went wide open from 1st to 5th, wide open in 5th for about 20 seconds, killed it pulled clutch, coasted to stop. the color looked right, like cardboard, but it was mostly up at the tip, i did not see the distinct band halfway down the insulator. i didnt actually cut the plug, cause i think i can see all the color that is there, and i want to make sure i am doing it right first. heres my questions:

1) does it have to be wide open from first to fifth without letting off at all?one source just said to go fast up to 5th then go wide open

2) how long should it be wide open in 5th? some sources say a few seconds, some say 20-30 seconds

3) would it help to go wide open into 6th? some say to go to 6th, most say that 5th is fine

4) am i supposed to kill it then pull the clutch or the other way around? does it matter?

5) if i did do it right why is the color towards the tip of the insulator and not in a band halfway down it? is that bad? did i run it too long for a good reading?

 

[Awk08]

http://www.google.com/url?q=http://...ds-cse&usg=AFQjCNENx48laCYCoRiSlvRc_Vty44z8Cg

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

i already read that post a bunch of times, but it does'nt answer my questions. i have that color, but my ring is at the top of the insulator not the middle. does it have to be wide open through all the gears? how long do i run it wide open in 5th

 

[Awk08]

yes, wide open thru all the gears, i like to go into 6th and hold it there for 10-20 seconds at least

and the position of the smoke ring on the insulator does mean something, but i forget what

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

ok thanks, i'm pretty sure i did it right. i'll try again this morning and go into 6th, maybe i didnt have it pinned in 1st. i just want to make sure its right, and the smoke ring position is confusing me

 

[Awk08]

i wouldnt worry about the position of it, just the color, nice dark brown, to be safe in cooler temps
i bump my main up one when temps reach mid 40's
anything into the 30's is too cold for me

wonder if that could be tested and become "rule of thumb" ???

1 main jet size bigger for each...10/20 degree colder temps ?????

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

it seemed a little rich at first, but when i took the previous owners dirty old br9es plug out, and put my new br8es plug in for the test it really ripped. i gapped it at .75mm, the manual calls for .7-.8mm. my color seemed right on, even a little dark in one spot, should bother to try it with a 290, or just retest with the 280, then maybe a 270

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

its been in the 30's here, i plan on riding them through the winter, that should be ok as long as i dont ride it in greatly varying temps without rejetting right?

i guess i wont worry about the ring position, the color is right, thanks for the insight on that, the ring position had me worried. i'll test again with 290, 280, 270 now that i know i'm doing it right

 

[Awk08]

from some reading i just did, i believe the smoke ring position has to do with plug heat range, which you just fixed by going back to an "8"
and possibly has to do with timing advance
wheres your timing....stock ???? < nuthin to worry about then

and yes to the jetting change for colder temps, unless you just wanna jet it rich and be already set for somewhat colder temps, but i would highly suggest watching it closely in temps into the teens and below

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

ok thanks, it was the new br8es that i got the reading from though, not the "9". the timing is stock as far as i know. the old lady left me here with the kids, so i have to wait for her to get back, then i'm going to go get a 290. i'll try again with the 290 then maybe with the 280 again. fortunately jets are only $3 here, i saw someone post they paid $8 a piece ouch

on a funny side note the previous owner had a 240 in there with that dg header and the airbox lid off, dumb ass. luckily when i looked up the exhaust port the piston, rings, and cylinder all looked good

 

[Awk08]

stock jet is 230, and the dg header is basically a stock pipe, and does not require much more jetting, airlid off usually is 1-2 bigger
but your on the right course to make the most out of what you have, and make it last !!!!!!!!

 

[Larry's Shee]

Seeing you're north of me, I wouldn't go leaner now. I'd like to know exactly how the air changes with temp, would think it's more of a curve rather than straight line as to temp vs. density.

Where in northern Mi are you? I got a little place N of Mio. I'm between Flint & Ponticrack

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

ok, maybe calling the guy a dumb ass was out of line, but it semmed to be running quite lean before i messed with it. i could tell by riding it the dg had no real difference from stock, but i read several posts that suggested a 260 for the dg with the lid on, so i thought he was way off.

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

i'm from wolverine, but i live in indian river now. this summer i did some restoration work on a log cabin located on a hunting compound near mio. its nice down there, rural, and un developed the way i like it

i really have no idea what temps do to the air density, other than cooler temps causing leaner conditions due to the lighter air and the opposite with hot conditions. i guess low pressure and coldness go hand in hand ect. but there has to be a lot of variables including humidity and low pressure systems during already low pressure seasons, but i'm no meteorologist

i just got back from the dealer with a 290 and 300 so i should be set for the winter season, at least with this blaster, i probably wont be riding when its below 15 degrees anyway. i'll definately be erring to the rich side this winter, i dont want to blow something up

 

[Zwiser]

smoke ring position is for the throttle position i always thought... tip being idle (if you let it idle there will a color there) 1/4 of it being half throttle, and half of the electrode being wide open, so after time you hit all of these ranges and thats why the plug is colored all the way down

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

it didnt have time to idle at all though, i put the plug into my already warmed engine for a plug chop, kicked it over and blasted off on 2 wheels wide open through all the gears but 6th, killed it at full throttle, coasted to a stop and took the plug out

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

ok, now i am pretty confused, i tried again with another new plug, this time with a 290 jet, and there is actually less color then there was with the 280

 

[DirtyBlasterd]

here is a pic showing the uncut plug i tested with the 280, and the cut plug tested with the 290. i didnt cut the first one cause i was sure i could see all the color, what you can see is whats there, after a couple mm it is white the rest of the way down. i almost didnt cut the second one cause it was clearly way lighter, but i thought there may be something i missed under the threads, there wasnt though. the color all the way at the insulator base is probably from the dremel. the other side of the cut plug is actually lighter.
why would there be less color with the 290 then there was with the 280?

 

[Awk08]

are they both genuine mikuni jets ???????

how did it run with the 290 ???

 

[Blaaster]

Dunno if the resistor series plug could have anything to do with it ???????

Try a plain simple b8es

Are you taking the carb off when you re jet or just leaning it over.

If you are taking the carb off, Could the colour discrepancy be anything to do with an intermittant air leak. Boots have been known to crack and leak when fiddled with.

Do you do an leak down test between jet changes.