I got a 98 blaster from a guy he said he put top end on it it ran for 2 hours and cut off so I buy it I get it home long story short it was the top end it looks like the piston on the exusht side look wore down to the rings were broke and the piston pin was stuck inside the piston so bought new top end and fixed it seems like it's running great lots of power however after 2 hours of running I changed the oil and there was metal shavings in it.... seems to me that there more then should be in there. Did a temp reading after riding for 5 to 10 min it read 228........ any help or suggestions? Also the top end seems to be noise first blaster I have had. But I have had 2 stroke before all liquid cooled. I have the mix 24:1 and have not had it pass 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Thanks for your help.
new top end looks like metal in oil, need help
- Thread starter duke3
- Start date
Blasters are notoriously noisy.
If you use a 24:1 mix, have you changed the jetting to compensate for the diminished amount of fuel in the mix?
Even though you will be well lubricated you may be running a destructive lean mixture.
You need to take the cover off and investigate what caused the metal in the oil!
Did you perform a leak test after re build to ensure that the engine was indeed air tight?
If you use a 24:1 mix, have you changed the jetting to compensate for the diminished amount of fuel in the mix?
Even though you will be well lubricated you may be running a destructive lean mixture.
You need to take the cover off and investigate what caused the metal in the oil!
Did you perform a leak test after re build to ensure that the engine was indeed air tight?
your temp is fine.
the metal in the oil is not from the piston or crank, the mixed fuel/oil lubricates those.
the oil you drained only lubricates the transmission and clutch.
pull the clutch cover to see if you find a cause of metal shavings....or was it just clutch material ?
check to see if it's magnetic ?
the metal in the oil is not from the piston or crank, the mixed fuel/oil lubricates those.
the oil you drained only lubricates the transmission and clutch.
pull the clutch cover to see if you find a cause of metal shavings....or was it just clutch material ?
check to see if it's magnetic ?
If the PO was honest with you, than there is something wrong to wear that fast. What other mods are done, what size main jet, what kind of top end kit did you buy? Did you do a proper break-in and leaktest? What kind of riding did you do for the 5-10 minutes, putt putt or wide-open, and did you warm it up first, many engines are ruined over time because people just start n go. As Awk said shavings in the oil is seperate from the piston and crank, but these ^^ things need to be checked too if you want the thing to last.
Thanks everyone for your time I got the full kit from summits race out of Florida I got the Wesco everything bored 40over the directions said run 24:1 the for the first 3 tanks of fuel I am on my 2 tank . after reading the post it looks like I did everything right but the leak down test were can I get one and how do I do it the right way . When I did the heat test I let it run in natural for 3 to 5 min revving up and down a little then then rode it not put puting but not hard Anderson's I finish rebuilding I turn to throttle down so it does not open up but a quarter to maybe almost halfway I don't want to get to excited and opening it up! Lol Thanks Again
Did them guys who told you to run a richer oil mix to break it in also inform you that you may need to increase the size of the main jet and also maybe adjust the needle and idle settings.
Running a heavier oil mix depletes the amount of fuel offered to the jets and creates a lean mixture.
Running a heavier oil mix depletes the amount of fuel offered to the jets and creates a lean mixture.
no, you should switch to 32:1 fuel/oil ratio like the other 99.999999% of us run on here and jetting advice is based on.
there is no benefit of running extra oil during breakin.
if it is all stock, the stock 230 main jet with 32:1 mix may be a tad lean @ your low altitude in florida.
only a plug chop can tell you what jet is required.........
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
There is a misconception that using a heavier than normal oil ratio I better for break in, and then altering the ratio when break in is complete.
Sadly those who take that advice may be doing harm to their engine as adding extra oil can create a dangerous lean mixture!
It is a poor practice as changing from the normal 32:1 ratio to 24:1 leans out the AFR by about I jet size, which in your case may be 2 sizes too lean.
Unless you are going to be riding with the throttle wide open for long periods, there is no reason for you to use a 24:1 ratio, 32:1 will be good for recreational riding.
In reading your posts I notice that you have never been on the main jet, so if you are experiencing problems they could be caused by the idle or needle circuit.
If you choose to continue using 24:1 it could pay to lift the needle one clip position.
Whatever ratio you choose to run it is a good idea when the break in period is complete, to do a plug chop to confirm the jetting!
Sadly those who take that advice may be doing harm to their engine as adding extra oil can create a dangerous lean mixture!
It is a poor practice as changing from the normal 32:1 ratio to 24:1 leans out the AFR by about I jet size, which in your case may be 2 sizes too lean.
Unless you are going to be riding with the throttle wide open for long periods, there is no reason for you to use a 24:1 ratio, 32:1 will be good for recreational riding.
In reading your posts I notice that you have never been on the main jet, so if you are experiencing problems they could be caused by the idle or needle circuit.
If you choose to continue using 24:1 it could pay to lift the needle one clip position.
Whatever ratio you choose to run it is a good idea when the break in period is complete, to do a plug chop to confirm the jetting!
