need some help fellows just got rebuild back

ismokedit1

New Member
May 17, 2011
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I just got my engine back from rebuild weisco bottom end and .40 over top end. Every thing is stock on bike w exeption of fmf slip on exhaust. I was running the oil injection I blocked that off . I used the plate and blocked.carb off. I mixed 20:1 using klotz. Plan on running 32:1 after break in. I noticed a slight knock coming from top end . I also noticed an exhaust leak from manifold. Would that cause the knock ? Also I can not get to idle right it was jetted for that exhaust before rebuild.Any suggestions I live in ny and wanna get some ridding time in before winter.Also where would you get a new spring for fmf exhaust
 
Forgot to mention oil light going crazy after blocking injection do you have to todo something w tors
 
Forgot to mention oil light going crazy after blocking injection do you have to todo something w tors. I hate to be a pain but any help w be greatful. I'm new to all this One more thing well it fresh on my mind clutch lever has no recoil to it tried adjusting at handle still seams to be loose
 
Were you using 32: before the rebuild. If you mixed 20:1 without re jetting you will be running lean. The knock could be detonation, 1 size up on main, will richen it up some.

Do not run 20:1 for break in way too much oil, no less than 25:1.
 
If you have no oil in the tank the sensor will be having a fit looking for it and the light will flash, unplug the wires at the tank.

Get rid of the TORS it can be a major pain, not to mention the extra weight on the carb top.

You may need to clean where the pipe fits up an use a sealant to stop it leaking, and any good bike shop will have a collections of springs.
 
Before the build I was using oil injection. The wired and tank for injection are removed. What's involved in removing tors? So that knocking was cuz of oil mixture
 
You can buy a TORS elimination kit, there are a lot of posts here do a search.

Unplug the wires at the globe, are the wires taped up where they were unplugged from the tank.

The only reason I can imagine for a knock after a rebuild and changing the oil ratio is a jetting problem. More oil means less fuel, a weak mixture can cause detonation (pinging).

Slip in a bigger main jet, cant do any harm and may get the mixture correct.

Failing that do a plug chop, and jet accordingly, there are also a lot of posts on this subject.

Remember when you go back to 32:1 go down one jet size.
 
forget all that 20:1 and 25:1, we all have had huge success here running 32:1
for breakin and forever and ever afterwards, and i'd skip that klotz super techni junk also
get ya some maxima super m or 927 and mix 32: 1. PERIOD
then scratch all the other markings off your ratio rite cup

and you should not need to rejet for just a silencer, it gives ZERO performance gains, and is mearly a muffler
i'd start with a 250/240 main for breakin, then WOT plug chop it after the proper heat cycles and breakin periods to fine tune that main
no change needed on the pilot, airscrew somewhere near 1.5 turns out and needle on the middle clip position
 
your opinion may have been 15:1 and your entitled to that,
i'm just stating what we all have experienced as the old "tried and true" 32:1 and with that we can all help with jetting, your experiments with richer oil ratios is comendable, but they're not for someone who's asking these questions here for a brand new engine and little experience with it
 
I'm limited to motorsports stores around here not too much of a choice on 2 stroke oil...32:1 it is....what other brands of oil are recommended ?
 
i seem to shy away from most of the full synthetics and castor based oils
like the amsoil dominator, which calls for 50:1 ratio, right on the bottle and an email from amsoil, i don't trust that weak of an oil mixture
and i had bad carbon build-up from only 2 bottles on klotz

i'd run factory yamaha or honda 2 stroke oil before either of those 2
and my all time favorite, tested for years is....... maxima super m
but thats just my opinion and experience,
lots of other guys have had success with the above mentioned oils, but i wouldnt run them in my lawnmower
 
I'm also looking for some misc parts if someone has them pm me

Nut for motor mount on swingarm
Nut for swingarm where you adjust chain
Bracet for clutch cable that connects to head

Thank you for all help
 
I was not bagging 32:1. I was merely trying to advise against 20:1 as was quoted

"I mixed 20:1 using klotz. Plan on running 32:1 after break in."

Using such a thick oil mix is not good for break in let alone how much it would interfere with the jetting, and could cause detonation. I admit I chose the wrong word which looked like I was telling everyone that 25:1 was the ultimate, I would be happy to run 32:1 but it does not suit my conditions.
 
I was not bagging 32:1. I was merely trying to advise against 20:1 as was quoted

"I mixed 20:1 using klotz. Plan on running 32:1 after break in."

Using such a thick oil mix is not good for break in let alone how much it would interfere with the jetting, and could cause detonation. I admit I chose the wrong word which looked like I was telling everyone that 25:1 was the ultimate, I would be happy to run 32:1 but it does not suit my conditions.

i know all that, i've watched your ratio thread from day one, and wasnt trying to rag you for suggesting that, and actually appluad you for trying different things to suit your conditions
just giving my opinion too....... for a newbie with little to no jetting and oil ratio experience, i felt 32:1 with a good standard oil was best for his situation, as he'll get a lot more accurate jetting help here if he's running what we all run
 
I got back to the bike today I used a 32:1 mix and the knocking/pining went away. I didnt get the Idle right but bike was running and sounded real good. I appreciate the help guys. I did some further home work and found the idle screw under the seat ..lol hopefully ill be able toget to it next weekend . If anyone has those parts above let me know thanks
 
idle issue.........
have you adjusted the airscrew ???
1.5 turns out to start, the 1/4 turns at a time, in and then out, till you find the sweet spot where it idles the highest, check to see if it revs clean then re-adjust your idle to your likings,
tweak it like 1/8th turns at a time while out riding till it reacts the best to quick throttle stabs, which shouldnt take but a little adjusting one way or another
 
Yea I tried that I didn't realize there was an adjusment under seat .Other than idle issue it sounded good. As bad as I wanted to get on it I didn't it felt real snappy. I'm gonna try and get to it next weekend.