Monster Boyesons

Also does KOR do monster boyesens on his port jobs? I have a cylinder that has them and im trying to figure out who did it.

"Monster" boyesen ports is referring to much larger than is typically possible (or needed) on a regular port job. Best is pointing out, in the original post, that the engine pictured has MUCH larger boyesen ports than are possible with a "normal" blaster.

I don't know if Ken puts boyesen ports in every engine he builds or not. I would guess that it depends on the engine on a case by case basis.
 
If you are building a normal blaster engine (gasoline powered no matter the tune level basically) you need two things for decent boyesen ports.

The first is a 1/4" aviation length drill bit (6" minimum). You need to line that drill bit up at the "top" inside corner of the transfer port with the cylinder flipped over (upside down) and attached well. You need to put the shank of the drill bit at the very outside corner of that transfer port for the right angle and elevation. Try not to actually touch the transfer at all with the drill bit but get it as low and tight into that opposite corner as you can. Once the small hole is drilled you can step up to a 12mm (7/16" or so) give or take. Getting the larger drill bit to "bite" into that predrill hole is difficult but can be done with patience. Once your drill bit has passed into the intake window, clean up the flashing and try to balance the size, shape, and length of the ports from both sides. Be VERY careful taking the ports "outwards" or "upwards" though. The mounting tab needs some strength retained out there....

i know we have the drill bits at the shop. i wonder how much more of a biotch this woulld be with my jb'd intake cyinder. Next time in at the shop in gonna think this one over HARDD!!!
 
i know we have the drill bits at the shop. i wonder how much more of a biotch this woulld be with my jb'd intake cyinder. Next time in at the shop in gonna think this one over HARDD!!!

The way I do it, you drill from the transfer port "out" into the intake window. If anything, you'll just bust the JB away on the inside of the intake window when it comes through.
 
Boyesen ports can be added (provided you've got big enough "equipment" to) to a stock blaster cylinder. The material around the sleeve inside of the mounting ears on both sides provides enough "meat" to add modest sized boyesen ports. You CANNOT add boyesen ports the size that I did without quite a bit of work including welding on a cylinder (big no no if the bore is still good)

It refers to a combination of port size, length, direction, and ending location. I simply by saying "too large" and "too small" but I really mean, being capable of too much flow and too little flow.

The problem with welding on a cylinder must risk the sleeve expanding or warping im guessing. My cylinder has some welding done to it else it wouldnt be sealed there where the material gets thin.

Anyway your saying you can do this without welding or adding more material? Sounds like a pretty easy mod to me? Get a long 1/4" drill bit and get the direction rite then. Do a little porting around both ends to smooth it out. What am I missing. I would like to give this a try.
 
The problem with welding on a cylinder must risk the sleeve expanding or warping im guessing. My cylinder has some welding done to it else it wouldnt be sealed there where the material gets thin.

Anyway your saying you can do this without welding or adding more material? Sounds like a pretty easy mod to me? Get a long 1/4" drill bit and get the direction rite then. Do a little porting around both ends to smooth it out. What am I missing. I would like to give this a try.

Warp is the issue. Unless you plan on boring a cylinder after the work is performed, welding right next to that iron sleeve is a big no no.

There are a few words of caution..... If the boyesens are terribly misshapen and one is MUCH longer than the other it can change the transfer port "balance" which can affect your overall scavenge efficiency. Instead of giving and extra boost, they would rob your engine of some efficiency.

Busting out the side of....anywhere is a surefire way to screw up a perfectly good blasty engine. You'll never get that airleak fixed as long as you live!
 
"Monster" boyesen ports is referring to much larger than is typically possible (or needed) on a regular port job. Best is pointing out, in the original post, that the engine pictured has MUCH larger boyesen ports than are possible with a "normal" blaster.

I don't know if Ken puts boyesen ports in every engine he builds or not. I would guess that it depends on the engine on a case by case basis.

Oh yeah I went back and looked at the pic and those are huge. What do you mean by "normal" blaster. Im in the process of a 4mil drag build. Im wanting to do everything thats possible to this engine.
 
Warp is the issue. Unless you plan on boring a cylinder after the work is performed, welding right next to that iron sleeve is a big no no.

There are a few words of caution..... If the boyesens are terribly misshapen and one is MUCH longer than the other it can change the transfer port "balance" which can affect your overall scavenge efficiency. Instead of giving and extra boost, they would rob your engine of some efficiency.

Busting out the side of....anywhere is a surefire way to screw up a perfectly good blasty engine. You'll never get that airleak fixed as long as you live!

So what size drill bit do you recommend for a stock cylinder? Even if I do break through I could just weld it. Wouldn't that fix the leak. Yeah obviously I dont want to do that tho.
 
Oh yeah I went back and looked at the pic and those are huge. What do you mean by "normal" blaster. Im in the process of a 4mil drag build. Im wanting to do everything thats possible to this engine.

"normal" meaning standard as cast blaster cylinder without material added used in a manner consistent with the original design. Trail, light Mx, play fun drag racing.

Serious hardcore racing of any type is not a "normal" blaster.

Everything that's possible or everything that's doable on a given budget? They are not the same thing and unless you have a lot of experience "improvising" it's very difficult to do.

3/8 (10mm) to 7/16" (12mm) is adequate for the flow seen by a regular blaster. Also, it leaves as much strength as possible there....

Also, "just welding it" is much easier said that done. Ever welded cast aluminum? Try it sometime....just for giggles.
 
Yeah I realize that there is a lot more to it. My drag build isnt no sissy bike. Im going all out on it. I will be sending the complete engine to flotek. Im just asking because I have two other blasters that I lik experimenting with and would like to try and learn two stroke engines better.
 
I havent welded cast before but I know it can be done and I dont think its anything I cant do. Anyways Im going to be careful and not break through the side wall. So anyways basically aim the drill bit from the inside of the transfer to the lower corner of the intake window. Then do a little porting to smooth it out. What will this do as far as performance wise too?
 
im sure some of you have seen these cylinders my brother and i did..

here is mine
053-2.jpg


and batts
060-2.jpg

was actually pretty easy to do

now another good topic would be adding triple exhaust ports to a boysen ported cylinder...losta gains to be had in these little motors for sure
154-2.jpg

055-1.jpg
 
Whats performance gains to you get from adding some 12mm holes into a stock cylinder. Say with a bike that has DIY porting, pipe and a larger carb.
 
Whats performance gains to you get from adding some 12mm holes into a stock cylinder. Say with a bike that has DIY porting, pipe and a larger carb.

everything must work togeather. a diy port job, large carb, pipe with stock head would be pretty sh*tty, add a rechambered head and WOW now your talking. Must eliminate all weakest links

ive never used boyeson ports before but think about it. your drilling two highway ports almost directly to the transfers that the stock motor never had. I can imagin these on motor with a good port job,head, exhaust would make a noticeable difference.

BlasterFreak those triples and double boyesons look CRAZYY!!! i imagin that motor works mighty fineB)
 
Since this thread has 34 posts already, and I've yet to see monster boysens, figured I'd share..........

aa1qw.jpg


from inside transfer port........

ojkyuf.jpg
 
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The typical way that most people approach porting is to look over what they have seen or read other people have done,
imagine bigger is better, and have at it, or pay someone else to have at it.
Everything gets made bigger, all at once and the cylinder gets put back on.
Sometimes it works better, they feel success.
Sometimes it works worst, they feel cheated.

Winning racers go at it systematically.
They read all the theory and they look at what other winner's are doing.
Unfortunately if there is money in it, most winners don't share their secrets.
In fact, they usually lead the competition astray. Most often what you see shown off is "Hey look at me, mine is bigger!" photos.
Has no connection with more power at all.

So what do the winners do? One step at a time.
Take the exhaust port, raise it a little at a time until best effect.
Try a few different head designs, progressively and watching the variables.
Then take the intake, open it up a bit or fill it and see the effect.
Cut a little metal off or fill in a little, watching and reacting to the positive effects, not the visuals.
One step at a time, reassembling and testing at each change, comparing power gain or loss each time.

I just saw that picture of the "Monster" Boyesens and wanted to share.
Those Blaster ones are awesome James! How did they work?

When I do them, I will likely start small and watch for effect.
If the engine gets slower with 6mm Boyesens, and even slower with 8mm, why go more?
How do you know if the Boyesens are a good thing if you did your exhaust at the same time?
It takes all of 20 minutes tops to pull the cylinder on a Blaster, make use of that simplicity. Do things one step at a time.
 
Yeah I agree mods should be done one at a time. I wish someone on here could drill some boyesens in their cylinder and report back with results. Im a little timid in drilling into mide since its the only good cylinder I have.