keihin 35 mm idle issues

mmajay

800 V Twin
Aug 6, 2010
1,636
18
0
63
Busco Beach NC/ Goldsboro
I have done some googleing and research and maybe this info can help those with the pwk 35 air stryker. The float level height is 16mm and there are others that confirm that this carb can be idle finiky.

Going to tear this carb off again and change my jets back to where i probably need to be with port,polish,pipe,3mm stroke and cfm with no lid. My guess is 162 main and 48 pilot.


I tried to clean the idle circuit area allready because it is suspect to me but going to do it again and recheck it for correct float height and go back to bigger jets and hopefully it will finally idle but not hopeful cuz i done this at least 5 times allready.

I am open to any more suggestions and encourage them. I am at my wits end with this carb not wanting to stay at idle without burping the throttle.
 
im at a 162 with my mods so i think that will be close for you as well, its definately rich, but its a happy rich lol. have you changed your needle yet?? thats what most guys do to figure the keihin carbs out. im pretty sure mine is a CEL, take yours off and see what letters it has on it.
 
im at a 162 with my mods so i think that will be close for you as well, its definately rich, but its a happy rich lol. have you changed your needle yet?? thats what most guys do to figure the keihin carbs out. im pretty sure mine is a CEL, take yours off and see what letters it has on it.

Needle says DGH on it, not sure what that means but going to go richer on the needle to see if that helps. Idle circuit is clean as a virgin, so i am going to go richer on needle to see if it helps or not.
 
Interesting, the standard needle for a PWK35-AS is a DEK. This would be the same taper(D) smaller diameter (E) and slightly longer (K) than what you have now. This would make the mid a bit richer and the effect last a bit longer than the DGH.

I see you figured out the float yourself, good job. I answered that in your last thread (a bit late!)
 
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Interesting, the standard needle for a PWK35-AS is a DEK. This would be the same taper(D) smaller diameter (E) and slightly longer (K) than what you have now. This would make the mid a bit richer and the effect last a bit longer than the DGH.

I see you figured out the float yourself, good job. I answered that in your last thread (a bit late!)

All your input is much appreciated although i really am at a stand still at this point. I dont know what else to try. I even double checked the v force 2 reeds and they look fine.

Float was dead nuts and dont matter where i am on jetting it still will not idle. Dont get me wrong it is sick fast but will not idle.

If i new for certain it was a carb issue i would order a new one even though this polished carb is way nicer than a new one.
 
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So where are you on this now, Jay?

Compression?

Spark? (do you have it kicking over without touching throttle)

Leakdown test?

Obviously you are getting fuel, but can you spray through the passages and have it come out all the holes in the carb throat?

How about the idle air bleed on the filter side of carb throat? Take idle air screw out and spray thru.
 
So where are you on this now, Jay?

Compression?

Spark? (do you have it kicking over without touching throttle)

Leakdown test?

Obviously you are getting fuel, but can you spray through the passages and have it come out all the holes in the carb throat?

How about the idle air bleed on the filter side of carb throat? Take idle air screw out and spray thru.

Compression is 130, It needs some throttle to kick over. All passages are very clean. I have not did a leak down but i seriously doubt its leaking allthough i know its possible.

Is it possible to have a weak spark at idle?? I also checked reeds and they look new.

One thing i do notice is it will idle for about 30 seconds to 1 min fine when i first start it up after being off for a while and then it seems to run out of fuel.

It will not accept any chokeing to start as well.I have cleaned it twice very thourough even though it was spotless.

Do you think the needle would have anything to do with it or someone doing a timeing mod on it because that might have been done, i havent read of anyone haveing trouble with advance timeing mods though. I am just trying to throw as much info out there so i dont buy something i dont need.

Even though i measured the float height i am wondering if that could still be an issue because it cold starts and idles for a while but once it stalls it wont idle no more by itself.

I also tried every air screw position i could and it dont matter. I wondered why you mentioned spark?? Do you think the coil could be weak which makes it weaker at idle??

One other thing the previous motor would not idle either and i swapped it out instead of rebuilding.
 
seems big to me...i was running a 42 pilot and 155 main on my ported bb kit and i changed my needle from a DEK toa CEL, and it made a big diffrence...also if ur riding and u pull the choke out and it doesnt bog out then the pilot is to big
 
seems big to me...i was running a 42 pilot and 155 main on my ported bb kit and i changed my needle from a DEK toa CEL, and it made a big diffrence...also if ur riding and u pull the choke out and it doesnt bog out then the pilot is to big

I have went as low as 152 42 and it dont make a diferance,,I might be big on jetting and i will lower if i have to after i can get this thing to idle. If i pull the choke it will stall imediately at a lower rpm. I think i said my needle was a DHG if i recall. Do you think it could be a possible needle problem?
 
I have went as low as 152 42 and it dont make a diferance,,I might be big on jetting and i will lower if i have to after i can get this thing to idle. If i pull the choke it will stall imediately at a lower rpm. I think i said my needle was a DHG if i recall. Do you think it could be a possible needle problem?

its possible...i didnt have any idleing issues when i changed my needle but it helped with the low range bog i was having
 
im sure the needle plays some part in the idle circuit but im not exactly sure because all the circuits overlap each other at some point...like i said i didnt have any idleing issues when i changed needles so its hard to tell if that will hep ya...might be a dumb question but have u tried any adjusting it on the throttle to see if u can get to idle
 
im sure the needle plays some part in the idle circuit but im not exactly sure because all the circuits overlap each other at some point...like i said i didnt have any idleing issues when i changed needles so its hard to tell if that will hep ya...might be a dumb question but have u tried any adjusting it on the throttle to see if u can get to idle[/QU

Yes, i have it adjusted all the way up as well as i tried the air flow needle in all positions, i am trying to cover all bases. I need to make a devise to check gas levels in the bowl to see if float is perfect or not, its hard to judge.

One thing i have noticed is it spits fuel to much towards the airbox end. I was watching it to see if i could notice any thing odd or look at fuel flow and hell i aint so sure. I took airbox off to look WTF is going on and its spitting a little towards the filter area and not sure if it should be spitting that direction. I know carbs ok but not that good.
 
im sure the needle plays some part in the idle circuit but im not exactly sure because all the circuits overlap each other at some point...like i said i didnt have any idleing issues when i changed needles so its hard to tell if that will hep ya...might be a dumb question but have u tried any adjusting it on the throttle to see if u can get to idle[/QU

Yes, i have it adjusted all the way up as well as i tried the air flow needle in all positions, i am trying to cover all bases. I need to make a devise to check gas levels in the bowl to see if float is perfect or not, its hard to judge.

One thing i have noticed is it spits fuel to much towards the airbox end. I was watching it to see if i could notice any thing odd or look at fuel flow and hell i aint so sure. I took airbox off to look WTF is going on and its spitting a little towards the filter area and not sure if it should be spitting that direction. I know carbs ok but not that good.

how do the reeds look....i ve heard of cracked or broken reeds causing fuel to to be spit back into the air tube.....and that would also cause an idleing prob too
 
how do the reeds look....i ve heard of cracked or broken reeds causing fuel to to be spit back into the air tube.....and that would also cause an idleing prob too

I took them apart yesterday and they look fine, i took them apart to see if i saw any cracks and seen none. There v force 2 which makes them odd to really look at but i didnt see anything obvious.
 
like freak just said a hanging open, weak or cracked reed will cause fuel to be spit back towrds the air box

It could be weak reeds. I suspected them but they look almost new but they might be weak but carb is spitting that direction.

So no fuel should be spit that direction correct??? If so thats whats going on.
 
It could be weak reeds. I suspected them but they look almost new but they might be weak but carb is spitting that direction.

it just seems that if u have tried everything on the carb and nothing worked theres not really much more it could be.....even if the carb was jetted way to rich u could still somewhat get an idle out of it...but sounds like u have tried everything and nothing helped....if u have a stock set of reeds laying around throw them in and see if it helps