Hey guys, I don't know what year my blaster is cause I cant read the numbers. I know its the cable rear brake but Fred (dirtysquared) hooked me up on those in his contest. I started with rebuilding the engine but never ordered the bottom end seals and bearings. It has a fmf fatty gold series and power core 2 (I think). Anyway, I have it to complete frame. I am going to paint the frame, a-arms and swingarm, then restore the plastic. If I don't powder coat, what is the best paint to use on frame? Does anyone know where I can get the best deal on bottom end seals and bearings? Being layed off sucks, money is short now. Also, to those who have done the rear disc conversion, I would like advice on how to mount the master cylinder to make it looks nice. Fred give it to me so I want to make good use of it! Also, I will need all new tires if anyone knows of a good online place to get those. When I find out how to post pics, I will post them up. The rear Fred gave me has the rearend spacers, is there anything else I should think about on suspension? It has the factory pink looking shocks but the seem good. I want this to be a nice bike when done, I just don't want to spend an arm and a leg. I already spent around $400 on a top end and CR studs for the head because the head studs were stripped. Ken did a great job on the head by the way. Well, if you guys have any advice, I am all ears.
jjz28 blaster freshen up
- Thread starter Jeff Bennett
- Start date
Unfortunately there is no cheap way to do the bearings and seals in the bottom end if you want them to last. Any place that has Koyo bearings is what you want. You don't want to get cheap Chinese bearings. Seals are cheaper than the bearings though. The bearings are where you are gonna be spending a good chunk of money.
Well, the top and bottom were rebuilt but the guy didn't do a good job and the head bolts were stripped so I havd to rebuild it and the bottom seals looks like he poked them in with a screwdriver. The bearings seem to be fine. I don't know what kind was used but I know it was a wiseco crank kit so whatever bearings it comes with. I would love to just replace seals since the bearings are fine now but then again, its completely stripped right now so it would be the time to do it.
I'm not sure what bearings are in the wiseco kit. Might be able to call someone that sells the kit and ask what name is written on the bearing. Koyo says Koyo on the side of their bearings but I think only one side so if they were installed with the Koyo down then you would never know.
Got everything ordered. Now I am taking a razor blade to the plastic to get the excess paint and scratches off. We'll see how that works. Anyone have some pics of there rear hydro conversion mounting for the master cylinder? I have been using my welder quite a bit and want to make a nice looking mounting location and would like to see what others have come up with. Man, I have a lot of work to do! lol
I'm sure someone has fabbed up a mounting bracket for the rear master cylinder. I've never had a pre 03 frame, so I really don't know what all would be Involved.
I have a 03 frame that's bent and going to the scrapper. I could cut that section out for you. Just an idea.
Thanks guys, I made one out of a metal bed frame. LOL . Got the frame painted and the engine seals in, now just need to torque everything and get the rest together.
Try to mount simular to stock location.
When I did mine I put it in the "Y" of frame/ sub-frame to "protect" it. Problem is the arm on pedal is to long and I don't have enough leverage on MC.
Have to change it one of these days.
When I did mine I put it in the "Y" of frame/ sub-frame to "protect" it. Problem is the arm on pedal is to long and I don't have enough leverage on MC.
Have to change it one of these days.
Before any one jumps in and says it's junk, more false info. Been running one on son's Banshee 4+ yrs, no issues.
The key only locates the F-wheel.
The key only locates the F-wheel.
That's cool larry. Yeah I had just read about all of that and lapping the flywheel stuff. What jet do you guys think I should start with? The bike has fmf fatty and power core 2, the timing key, higher flow filter, no lid and boysen reeds. Believe it or not the guy who rebuilt it before me left the stock jet in it. I am at 2000 feet. thanks guys. I was thinking 280 to start.
Hey guys when I adjust the clutch rod and I pull the lever forward, then screw it in until the lever goes to the line, is that all the farther the clutch is suppose to go forward after I am done? The clutch seems to work but it will only go to that line forward, is that right? It just seems like it doesn't move very far and the spring don't have tension on it. Should it go past that line when you push it? Mine doesn't go any farther than the line. did I do it wrong?
I watched the video on this and still don't know if I done it right. When I took all the clutch components apart the bike worked fine, but when I put it all back together, the clutch rod was not adjusted to that line, but it was working before and I never moved the screw. also, just to clarify, the engine is not on the bike, I just rebuilt it and am trying to get the clutch adjusted before I put it in the frame. So when I am talking about the clutch, I am talking about the lever on the engine. It doesn't move much at all but it letting pressure off the clutch basket. I just want to know I have it adjusted right before putting the cover back on. Oh and the bearing is in there between the 2 rods.
Marks are lined up and plates are tight when screws tightened? Careful not to overtighten !!!!!
Is this a new clutch? Soak plates in oil first? If original did you clock the steels and correct order for frictions?
<(might not matter if aftermarket plates)
Cable disconnected when adjusting?
Is this a new clutch? Soak plates in oil first? If original did you clock the steels and correct order for frictions?
<(might not matter if aftermarket plates)
Cable disconnected when adjusting?
yes marks are lined up and plates are tight. Not a new clutch and the basket actually needs filed. I saw a post on that after I put everything in. The engine is not on the bike at all. Yes I did clock the steels like KOR video by marking them 4 apart. It just seems that when I pull the lever, then adjust it until it comes to the mark, is it supposed to go past the mark after that? Or is that all the farther it is supposed to go? Like when I push it from where it rests (the lever) it goes to that mark and wont go further and that's not much travel. The plates do looses a little though. How much should the plates loosen when the clutch is engaged? Is just a little enough to let the clutch engage? I am going to go back out right now and file the basket. Thanks larry.
I am also wondering if my torque wrench is off. When I torque the springs down, they squash all the way down until it sort of "seats", then I torque from there but the springs are really compressed. I don't think they were that compressed on my street bike but I cant remember. I know they torque at a little over 4 pounds but I am using an old type bend bar torque wrench. It goes in like 2.5 pound increments so I go just a little under 5 pounds. I hope I am not getting them too tight. After they "seat" I barley have to tighten them to get the torque at a little under 5. Any help would be appreciated as I am doing this now. Are the springs supposed to be almost fully compressed?
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