Jets dont open, throttle cable wont move

I don't just throw numbers around ( Im a Ford Tech and a Gunsmith ) that is what the Clymer and Haynes service manuals published. My new spare motor was dead on 160.
what does ford tech and gunsmith have to do with a blaster? if the head is cut then yeah you can get 160lbs of compression... the manual is probably referring to running pump fuel cause once you get over 160lbs ish it time to start running/mixing race fuel.. I have a fresh ct240 engine with a 4 mill crank which was built by k.o.r who built it to a T for running pump fuel and had to cut a spacer for the spark plug and it's 160lbs of compression..so a stock engine is gonna be running the same compression with out a head mod? I don't think so.. you can run or believe anything you want but for some kids to get on here and read there bike should be between a 140-160 lbs and then do a compression check and tear there bike apart when they have 125-130lbs of compression when there is no need to waste the money cause there bike is ok.. have you ever kicked a bike with 160lbs? totally different kick then from a stock bike..
 
Last edited:
^^^^ couldn't agree more. It sure would be a shame for a newbie to have a broken read. Start reading this post and think his compression is low. There went $200 out the window for no reason. I remember seeing in the manual compression ratio of 6.6 to 1. There is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY a stock motor is putting out 160 psi. It's not even up for debate. 125 is good compression for a stock motor. If any newbies are reading this do not take your top end off because you don't have 160 psi.
 
what does ford tech and gunsmith have to do with a blaster? if the head is cut then yeah you can get 160lbs of compression... the manual is probably referring to running pump fuel cause once you get over 160lbs ish it time to start running/mixing race fuel.. I have a fresh ct240 engine with a 4 mill crank which was built by k.o.r who built it to a T for running pump fuel and had to cut a spacer for the spark plug and it 160lbs of compression..so a stock engine is gonna be running the same compression with any head mod? I don't think.. you can run or believe anything you want but for some kids to get on here and read there bike should be between a 140-160 lbs and then do a compression check and tear there bike apart when they have 125-130lbs of compression when there is no need to waste the money cause there bike is ok.. have you ever kicked a bike with 160lbs? totally different kick then from a stock bike..

You have a point and an opinion .I go by published manufactures spec in both my professions, I have to in order to validate my work.The compression and octane needed is directly influenced by the head cc s . But it could be less or even more with carbon build up . I don't know the OP motor build up or history .The stock motor that Im working on had a light seized piston, air leak, and a lot of carbon, the compression test said 160 after 5 kicks.The shop I got it from said it was fully rebuilt ready to run so much for that.
The Clymer book states that... If the compression is well below 140 psi the engine top end should be disassembled and parts inspected .If the reading is higher than 160 there may be a build up of carbon in the combustion chamber or on the piston crown.
 
So just had an Idea, why kick and kick when I can strap it up to my truck and drop the clutch. And gonna test compression, but workin 80 hrs this week so time tied up for time.
 
I have never been a fan of jump starting a bike unless I'm absolutely stranded and out of options.

Quite obviously, if one has to tow a bike in order to get it to run there must be something amiss which should be rectified.

To put it bluntly, something has to be fixed.
 
So got my money back for the stator plate, have to get new pick ups for my only plate and a new coil, current one is messed up. But, instead got someone buying bottom end, and a friend selling an 01 that needs a new kick starter (the recoil spring on mine is bad as it is). So gonna keep this one as a parts bike and get the new body style.
 
Thats a good thing then. Hopefully you get that 01 up and running, and enjoy it. It sucks that the one you have now left a bad taste in your mouth, but once you get one running, and get the knack for working on them, you can't beat owning a Blaster.
 
Well if you look at the title it says "Jets dont open". At least this was a learning experience and now you know a jet is not a moving part!

So you never got the Blasty figured out? What are you doing with it?
 
no, bad title, the needle isn't lifting would be correct. Ya, the issue was I bought cheap made in china, bought off ebay parts. My coil and "after market" ebay parts put out a junk spark, and had a ton of offers on the top and bottom end, so high I couldn't resist. But I will be back on a blaster soon, and for now Ill be powder coating the rest of the metal to get ready for it.