Has anyone used this?

Fast6hand

Active Member
Oct 10, 2013
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West Palm Beach
Has anyone used this? Is it worth buying? I really don't want to drill out the holes on a perfectly good stator.
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Why bother, a few strokes with a small round file or a Dremel and you can do it yourself for free.

+ 4 deg is about all you will need to advance anyway.
 
Make your own markings.

Elongating the holes 3mm gives you 4degs.

Google timing advance all will be revealed, Google is free, plate is 2 cartons of beer
 
Make your own markings.

Elongating the holes 3mm gives you 4degs.

Google timing advance all will be revealed, Google is free, plate is 2 cartons of beer
Maybe I will try it. I'll make a mark for stock timing, in which it should already be there. I'll measure 3 mm over on holes and file to that point. Which way does it need to rotate to advance? Clockwise?
 
I wouldn't buy a pop out of Ricky Stator's pop machine even if I had just walked 5 miles through the desert in 100 degree weather and his business was the 1st one I came to.

Anyway, yes, you want to rotate the stator plate clockwise. The crank turns counterclockwise so you want to rotate the stator plate clockwise to trigger the spark earlier. As mentioned, 3mm at the holes is 4 degrees. However, at the outside edge of the plate, 1mm=1 degree. Scribe a line on the edge of the plate and on the case before you pull the stator. After you pull the plate, measure and scribe another line 4mm counterclockwise from the mark you just made. Scribe a 4 beside that mark. File the holes till you can line up the #4 mark.

You will probably also have to grind the steel tab, that protects the wires, a little bit as it hits the case when you rotate the stator.
 
I wouldn't buy a pop out of Ricky Stator's pop machine even if I had just walked 5 miles through the desert in 100 degree weather and his business was the 1st one I came to.

Anyway, yes, you want to rotate the stator plate clockwise. The crank turns counterclockwise so you want to rotate the stator plate clockwise to trigger the spark earlier. As mentioned, 3mm at the holes is 4 degrees. However, at the outside edge of the plate, 1mm=1 degree. Scribe a line on the edge of the plate and on the case before you pull the stator. After you pull the plate, measure and scribe another line 4mm counterclockwise from the mark you just made. Scribe a 4 beside that mark. File the holes till you can line up the #4 mark.

You will probably also have to grind the steel tab, that protects the wires, a little bit as it hits the case when you rotate the stator.
Is there anything else that needs to be done with the advance?
 
Yup,,, Enjoy!! lol


Its real easy to do. If you own a chain saw than you probably already have a good file to do this mod..
Ok. I've just read other threads that it puts added stress on the rod and piston. But Im going to give it a try. If I don't like it I can simply put it back.
 
Riding it puts more stress on it than parking it in the garage. If you want it to last forever, don't ride it.

Yamaha (And most other manufacturers) designs their engines to run on any old crap gas and last through the warranty period. Consequently, the porting, compression, and timing are very conservative, and have plenty of room for improvement. "You milled the head, advanced the timing, and ran 6 month old regular gas that you bought last fall for your lawnmower? Sorry, no warranty for you"
 
I already did the timing advancement. It was real simple. I could tell a difference in the bike. It started pulling harder earlier on. It seemed to stay in the powerband better through the shift. Glad I did it.
 
Cool! Thanks for reporting back. We told you it was easy.

BTW, to install an aftermarket stator plate, it looks like you have to saw the livin daylights out of the OEM stator plate to get the coils off it, since the wires go through holes that are smaller than the coils. Looks like the aftermarket plate is made so you can feed the charge coil through the plate and the source and pick up coil wires just go around that cutaway area.

Now, if someone made a billet adjustable plate for a DT200, I would buy one in a heartbeat.
 
I wouldn't buy a pop out of Ricky Stator's pop machine even if I had just walked 5 miles through the desert in 100 degree weather and his business was the 1st one I came to.

I'll do you one better. You couldn't PAY ME to drink his pop, or use his junk. Stripped thread holes in plate, broken cranks from his flywheels. Granted most of those problems were on Banshees, but it seems the lack of quality has filtered down to the Blaster.

When I modded mine I just rotated till metal plate hit and called it good enough.
 
I'll do you one better. You couldn't PAY ME to drink his pop, or use his junk. Stripped thread holes in plate, broken cranks from his flywheels. Granted most of those problems were on Banshees, but it seems the lack of quality has filtered down to the Blaster.

When I modded mine I just rotated till metal plate hit and called it good enough.
Yea I did my different. Rather than making a mark on the flat area by the back of the case, I made a mark where the original timing mark on the stator is on the case. Then I measured from the mark on the stator and made a mark on the stator where +4 is. I then filed the holes. So all I had to do is line up the new mark on the stator with the case marking. Now I know where stock timing is and +4. I just bent the metal tab a bit rather than grinding it.