yep geting to know it prity well, its getin there it feels like i should have to have smaller than factory main in needle all the way up lean just to get it to run. its got me puzzled,.. and when i changed the coil on the stator there was water spots on the cover and behind the stator there was a couple drops of black oil not alot just a couple. not shure if it's leak and if so if it could cause vacume leak in case.. its get there though..
general HELP!
- Thread starter oldguy1
- Start date
well i got light gold idle mid and top it does not seem to have whell lifting power or maybee im not runing it hard enough when i give it gas its a little delayed but plug looks good... thanks ill have to put it all back together now and ride it and if everything works out find another blaster project 
ha ha it didn't hold up took it for a ride and have a few questions 1. why would i get water build up in the case for the stator? and 2. I was riding it and checking plug looked good it was really boggy on top end then it went flat and ated like it was going to lock up. it got really tight and so i shut it off and let it cool and it starts back up kinda revs a little but im sfrsid its going to lock.
fyi, i had a similar problem with my 06 blaster...it was the parking break switch on the handle bars...just sticking a little...when i pressed in the button for the parking break and then released it, it appeared to be releasing correctly but it was not releasing all the way. again that was on a 06 with the hydraulic breaks
he all it runs its ticking but it runs it revs great no hesitation. the tick i am conserned about though.. the tick is like this, as it idles the tick is prominant like the combustion noise in cylinder but off timed from it.. and when i lightly rev it the tick picks up in speed along with rev still off time though .. not sure i hate to pull the top end back off.. cant aford to put any more money in it.
I suggest you check the TORS. The system consists of a switch inside the body of the throttle and a switch inside the carburetor. When the throttle is at idle, the switch is open.(at the same time, the switch inside the carburetor is closed). When the throttle is increased, the switch inside the hand throttle becomes closed and the switch in the carburetor opens. One switch or the other must be closed to satisfy conditions for a spark. The purpose is to kill the engine in the event of a stuck throttle. In my case, the switch inside the throttle(which is normally open) was faulty. It was an easy fix. I used a wirenut to connect the wires together to fool the system. It was tricky to diagnose, because if the throttle wasn't touched, the engine would start and idle, but would die if you gave it any gas. While checking for good spark, I was lucky to stumble into the fact that there was no spark if the throttle was turned. Good luck.
